United Brass 2-8-4 http://cgi.ebay.com/United-Brass-HO-Scale-2-8-4-Berkshire-needs-repair_W0QQitemZ150220512953QQihZ005QQcategoryZ78178QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ShippingPayment should I go for it?
I’m going to bid on it on Friday, as soon as I have a eBay account. I’m planning to replace the motor with a NWSL motor & add DCC.
New Haven–
I’ve got a couple of United models and they’re good runners and VERY decent pullers. I can’t tell from the photos exactly what repairs the loco will need, but I’d say definitely a new motor and a new connection between loco and tender (it looks as if the owner bypassed the drawbar and opted for a wire connection directly to the tender). PSC makes a really good ‘scissors’ type adjustable wireless drawbar, and your idea of putting in an NWSL motor is a good one. And of course, any cosmetic repair–replacing castings–can be accomplished through either Cal-Scale and PSC.
It’s a good-looking loco. If $51 is the starting bid, you might get a REALLY good deal on it. I’d say go for it–who knows, you might actually end up with an HO Berk that actually HAULS like one without having to pull off a plastic boiler to add weight and put traction tires on it, LOL!
Looks good to me.
Tom [:D]
The opening bid was $9.95. Now it’s $51.00. Six days left. It’ll sell for a good price.
It appears the only thing wrong is the fiberglass brush mount plate is broken. That’s a fairly easy fix, as Pittman motors are fairly available for parts.
A repower would maybe make it run better, BUT would considerably diminish the collector value of an original.
I guess it just depends on which side of the fence you stand on.
Rotor
Unless you are a tinkerer, very handy, and have the necessary experience (which I doubt because you asked all for comment), I’d avoid this Berk. There less painful, less frustrating, and ultimately, less costly alternatives. Nevertheless, if you want the challenge, ignore me and go for it.
Mark
By the way I-5, if you see something you want on ePay, don’t post the link and let everyone know about it. Now you have let who knows how many folks know about the item.
I wouldn’t have known about it if you hadn’t mentioned it here.
Rotor
[#ditto]
A replacement of the motor is not a rip and replace operation (typically), though it can be. Figure on replacing the gear tower as well. The shafts aren’t likely to match so unless you are going to stick with that rubber tube coupling, which is likely very dry and Will have to be replaced, you’ll be installing universals at the very least. In my past experience, that usually means replacing the main drive gear for a gear tower replacement.
It Can be a fun and challanging project. Or you’ll want to throw it against the wall. If you’re going for it I wouldn’t worry too much about collector value but figure on running and enjoying it.
Good luck…
Depends on what you are expecting. The detail is NOT as extensively rendered as on the P2k. But what you would get is a ROCK SOLID Japanese hand-built great craftsmanship quality model. I like older brass models very much because of this, and I would strip it and upgrade with many details because I am not the worst in soldering.
It definitely needs a new drive line.
I would go for it, this is one of the later models with the plastic brake shoes. It looks like the first one is missing, but you should be able to find a replacement. These old United brass engines will still be running long after the plastic ones kick the bucket.
Rick
I got one at an auction, no tender, needed work, but a professional brought it up to par for a song, try and get a brass tender(impossible) and they would run @ $100.00 and up, it truly is a great loco, go for it, as long as it doesn’t cost you $900.00 Mine runs like a clock and is a slick looking engine.
I changed my mind. I’m gonna wait for a Blueline ATSF 3751 4-8-4 from Wholesale trains for $169.99!
What Radius are you running?
David B
22 inch radius David. I have the old Bachmann 2-10-4 with the smoke & choo-choo & I belive the minnimum radius for that is 24 inch & it runs fine on 22’'.
Be careful with the radius. Never plan on a smaller radius than what is recommended. You will be disapointed.
David B
That NKP Berkshire probably wouldn’t have run on your track. Brass is a WHOLE different story from plastic. Short circuits will appear in places you never imagined when you’re playing with brass.
Yep, if you look at the bidding history, I think I5 just got himself some forum competition.
This unit has a distinct advantage over locos without an enclosed gearbox. Makes remotoring much simpler.
New Haven–
Yup, I have to agree, when it comes to the radius. Brass IS a whole other game. The chances are you’d have shorts from the leading and trailing wheels of the Berk, and possibly the cab and tender touching each other and shorting out, also. Brass has much tighter tolerances than current plastic locos of the same wheel arrangement. For instance, my minumum radius is a 34" on my MR, and my newest PSC brass 2-10-2 just refuses to tolerate anything smaller. I even have a brass 4-8-2 that I had to work on like crazy to keep the front trucks from lifting. Even an older brass Berk with looser tolerances would probably need at least a 26" to run smooth.
Funny thing, though, if you had been looking at an older brass 2-6-6-0 or 2-6-6-2, they’d probably have slid around the 22" with no problem but a huge overhang. But brass seems to be like that. For your radii, a brass 2-8-0, 4-6-0 or even a light 2-8-2 would probably work just fine. Did New Haven run them? Sunset put out a really smooth-running light USRA 2-8-2 some years back, if you ever find one, it would probably work really well.
Tom [:(]
I’d sooner have a P2K version of a 2-8-4. This unit is heavily weathered and I don’t like the scheme. The decalling is poor. In short it needs repainting as well as all the fixing noted. I wouldn’t want to mess with it.