I am posting this on both the general and layout forums in order to get as much input as possible.
I have an HO layout in my basement that a health condition will prevent me from accessing in a few months. In order to continue with my model railroading hobby; I am considering building a long narrow N scale layout to fit on one wall in my bedroom/office. I have a 17’ wall space to use. The shelf layout must be reachable from a desk chair. Since it will run over the head of the bed; operational reach is limited to about 7’ on the left hand end (the rest will be viewable rail for operations ).
I am looking at something fairly simple - as long as possible continuous run loop with some simple switching to add a little actual operations. I would like to keep the cost down; however, cost is not a major factor. I need to do the basic scenic work in my basement workshop and then move the layout to the upstairs location for final detailing.
I can get the layout below out of one sheet of plywood in two 8’ sections to be joined together and mounted to the wall with angle brackets (about 34" above floor ). I can get the basic scenery done while my health permits (especially the right side which will be unreachable for basic scenery work). I will be able to reach the left side for work in place. The layout shown is a rough approximation. I will use flex track with peco #6 turnouts (flipped with a finger - no switch machines). Minimum radius shown is 11". I have a Zephyr DCC system on my workbench witch will be moved to this layout. The layout shown is 16’ long with 26" width in the two end sections with about 8" width in the narrow section. I am fully capable of doing all of the construction work; I am asking for help on the N gage equipment issues.
If you want the decoders already installed you are mostly looking at Atlas, which are good quality locos. If you can install a lightboard decoder, it opens up the a lot of Kato and Intermountain stuff.
WIth that radius, I think I’d go with a shortline type of idea, and stick to four axle units. Or maybe have F units drop off cars for your switcher to sort, and vice-versa. I’d add a yard lead, probably above and parallel to the main, so that you can have the road train continue on its way while you do your switching. For equipment, I’m thinking a Kato NW-2 (there is a decoder available, it isn’t hard to install, no soldering or anything like that), or maybe an Atlas GP7 or 9 (those can be had with a decoder in them). I like the NW-2 because it is smaller. Then maybe a Kato F3 A/B set (again, you have to install the decoders), or maybe an Atlas GP38 or GP40 for the road engine (can be had with a decoder). There are quite a few other appropriate Atlas models out there, depending on what is still available.
Installing the decoders in the Katos is a half hour job, sometimes less. So I wouldn’t cross them off the list. I think the NW-2 would be perfect in your yard.
If I recall correctly, the NW 2 may not be DCC ready. The Kato adds say the locomotive will be DCC friendly. This usually means that the motor is isolated and would require a wired in decoder.
A good alternative would be the Atlas MP15. One side note with reference to Atlas Decoder equipped locomtives. The Lenz decoder installed in them can not be changed to speed match with other manufacturers products. CV’s 2, 5, and 6 can not be changed. I’ve had experience with five of these and none have accepted changes.
The trick is to get them DCC ready and install a Digitrax drop in decoder and the problem is solved.
As far as rolling stock, Micro Trains makes the best, Atlas and Kato are a tied for second place.
I’m not a huge fan of the Accumate couplers on the Atlas products, but they work well enough.
Again, the best couplers in N scale are from Micro Trains.
Atlas and Kato both produce well detailed and good running locomotives, their products dominate my power roster.
Loco wise, I agree with the advice to stick with four-axle power. They will handle the sharper curves better. Atlas makes plenty that are DCC equipped, as well as two switchers: The MP15 and VO-1000 (although the VO-1000 may not be ‘modern enough’ for your tastes). If you like the GP7 or GP9, be aware that not all are DCC capable. Only the newer releases are. I own one of the newer releases and it’s very nice (although I run in DC).
While it may not be a modern diesel, don’t count out the LifeLike RS2. It’s a newer release that is supposed to be DCC ready. The Atlas RS units are not DCC ready.
The Kato NW-2 is DCC ready, and from what I hear a very good loco.
As far as couplers go, MT is the best, but don’t count out Accumates which are standard on Atlas and Athearn rolling stock & Locos. They work fine with MT couple
Atlas DCC locos are great. One minor issue I’ve found is that because the decoder takes up more space inside, there is less weight on the wheels and so there is sometimes a minor loss of pulling power. But I MU my locos, so that’s a non-issue for me.
Kato locos are also great, if you can get the ones that allow drop-in DCC installation.
For freight cars, I’ll suggest you consider Atlas TrainMan. These cars go for about $8 a pop, are well painted and weathered and operate very well, and are only slightly less detailed than the Atlas regular line. TrainMan is a great way to flesh out a freight roster without busting your budget.
For track, if this is your first foray into N scale and you want quick, reliable, and easy, I’d recommend Kato Unitrack. Atlas is coming out with its own N scale TruTrack with more realistic code 65 rail and North American-sized ties, but it will probably be a few more months before even a basic selection of parts is available.
Atlas DCC locos are great. One minor issue I’ve found is that because the decoder takes up more space inside, there is less weight on the wheels and so there is sometimes a minor loss of pulling power. But I MU my locos, so that’s a non-issue for me.
Looks like everyone likes Atlas. I do plan on one 2% grade (on the back straight section). If one loco will not handle the grade with about ten cars; I will go to a AA or AB configuration.
Kato locos are also great, if you can get the ones that allow drop-in DCC installation.
I really do not want to install decoders myself. I have done several ( a dozen or so, including cramming sound into small spaces) decoder installs in HO and feel that I can do it without problems; however, I want to spend the time available on construction of the layout and detail of the layout.
For freight cars, I’ll suggest you consider Atlas TrainMan. These cars go for about $8 a pop, are well painted and weathered and operate very well, and are only slightly less detailed than the Atlas regular line. TrainMan is a great way to flesh out a freight roster without busting your budget.
This really helps the budget - thanks! For this layout; function is more important than detail in the rolling stock.
For track, if this is your first foray into N scale and you want quick, reliable, and easy, I’d recommend Kato Unitrack. Atlas is coming out with its own N scale TruTrack with more realistic code 65 rail and North American-sized ties, but it will probably be a few more months before even a basic selection of parts is available.
Laying track is not a problem for me. My HO BAH RR should be proof. [:D] I probably will go with the least expensive flex as function is more important than “prototype” detail.
Oh, wow… I guess I misunderstood your original post. I kind of read that your condition would only last a few months, not give you a few months…
I’m so sorry to hear that! I do hope they’re wrong and it turns out to be years (good years at that). I certainly hope that your condition can improve!
Thanks again Dave. I feel that my personal problems really don’t need to be detailed here; however, I don’t need to hide them either. I had a large and very deep Melanoma removed from my left forearm 9 years ago (scar looks like a large shark bite). I knew that it would probably sneak back in at sometime. The present timing and degree of spread did surprise me somewhat though. I still feel good and am only constrained by being tied to an Oxygen supply 24 hr per day due to a growth pressing on the lungs. I don’t like what is happening; however, I accept what will happen as part of the living/death process that we all face. I have had about 70 good years, including 2 of full retirement. I will fight to extend the time available.
Life spans are always an estimate; usually based on what happened to other people. Melanoma does not respond to “normal” cancer treatments. The only known treatment for Melanoma, is surgery to cut it out (mine is beyond that). There are some drugs that will slow it down but they only work in about 10% of the people treated. As of today; there is no known treatment (except for very early stages of localized Melanoma) that can be expected to work other than in a very small percentage of cases. Anyone that spends much time outside should be very careful about sun exposure and be sure to get at least yearly checkups from a good dermatologist.
Now all you will see why I am trying to simplify the process of building a layout. I do have somewhat limited time to get the job do
Equipment: Your best bet will be Atlas or Kato locos. LifeLike does make a nice SW if your hobby shop still has them. Only the very new Walthers/LL locos may have drop in decoders. THe folks at the hobby shop may help if some units need coupler conversion from Rapido to MTL.
Most of your freight car fleet will be Atlas Trainman. You may like some MTL cars. Bachmann’s can be a fill-in. New production is supposed to have new knuckle couplers.
Passenger: You can’t go wrong with a Kato set. If you want to run some steam, get one of the Athearn/MDC steamers & passenger cars. You may be familiar with the MDC’s Overland or shorty Overton cars. Athearn did a nice job updating them with new trucks, couplers & paint schemes. The Athearn/MDC 2-6-0 & 2-8-0 make great little steamers to pull them.
Ready to plant buildings can come from Bachmann or Model Power. You may have some time to repaint them to make them look better. Walthers & Woodland Scenics have some nice plastic kits too.
Your requirement to run DCC will keep you from buying any older junk locos. Once you run with MTL couplers, almost any brand of freight car can be happy behind them.
A great way to start may be with a Kato trainset. Enjoy your trains!
I just got back from Caboose Hobbies. Two Atlas loco’s, a mix of brands on 19 freight cars, track, turnouts, cork, and misc other stuff. Here it all is sitting on piece of ply destined to become a test track for break-in and skill building.
Thanks to all that answered. you ended up helping me spend $750. [:D]
That should work quite nicely, but now you have a real problem. Since we helped you spend the money, you’re now responsible for updating us on what you’re doing with “our” investment!
Just remember - if something does not work right; you are the cause. [8D]
I have built a simple oval for loco break-in and testing ( 140" of track). Both loco’s now have about 2 hrs each of running. They both run great from a dead slow crawl to about a scale 80 mph.
For all of you Digitrax Zephyr fans: note that I had to break out the manual to change the loco’s address. I never need the manual for my Prodigy Advance (on the HO layout). I have been using the Zephyr for months on my workbench with decoder pro (did not want to drag the computer interface upstairs today).
I set the oval up beside the bed on a couple of sawhorses. All of the other stuff (except the rolling stock ) will end up in my basement shop.
Here is picture of both loco’s actually running.
It may be late next week; however, I will document the new layout construction when I get started. Based on the two loco’s; it looks like my time period will be around 1970.
