Using Atlas True Track on WGH layout (Madison Central)

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Getting back into hobby after 15 year hiatus. I am going to build the WGH layout using Atlas True Track rather than the Bachmann version as in the video. My questions revolve around True Track and Liquid Nails.

  1. I am thinking of using remote switches in the layout, rather than the manual ones used in the video. Can the Atlas True Track turnouts be completely removed from the roadbed? I am worried about trouble down the road, and I want to be able to replace the turnouts if need be.

  2. They used Liquid Nails for Projects in the video to lay the roadbed and attached track to the foam, and I have seen lots of recommendations on this site for the use of caulk. If I use caulk, would it be easier to make repairs if need be? Can anyone recommend what caulk to use?

  3. Has anyone ever built this layout with remote switches, and is there any pitfalls I should be aware of?

Thanks!
Greg

2

Hello Greg,

I’d suggest using latex adhesive caulk, and using it sparingly. With the True Track you just need a thin layer under each edge of the roadbed. Lay down narrow beads of caulk and spread them thin with a putty knife before placing the track. You’ll have about 15 minutes to make adjustments, and the caulk will be completely set in a couple of hours.

You’ll be able to slip a putty knife under the roadbed and easily lift the track if you need to.
However, unless something malfunctions on the control side, like a stuck button that keeps a switch machine coil energized until it overheats, you probably won’t have any trouble with the remote turnouts. They’re so simple that there’s not much to go wrong.

Chuck Hitchcock, who wrote an article for MR about laying flextrack with caulk, recommends DAP clear adhesive caulk. I’ve also used Elmers brand with good results.

Good luck with your layout,

Andy

3

I have Bachmann’s EZ track for my layout for now, and also have a Layout Manual for EZ Track. In the Manual, the authors suggest on sawing off the 3 tabs from each turnout so that all you will need to do to repair/replace one is lift it off from the foam w/ a putty knife. And they too, use caulk for the adheasive.