using chalk for weathering

Hey everyone, ok, another question to ask and keep ya busy LOL.
When eathering loco’s etc cars; What type of chaulk is used? just tandard chaulk or is there a special kind that has to be used . And ,after chaulking the items being weathered , what is the best thing to use to preserve the work you have done? what has the best results ?
Thanks for looking.
C.C.

Regular chalks in a variety of dirt colours (plus black & white) are good. Grind them to a dust with sandpaper, mix them if needed, then apply with a big soft brush. You can fix them with Dullcoat, or wa***hem off it they don’t look right. Dullcoat will tone down the effect though, so you may need to repeat chalk-Dullcoat-chalk-Dullcoat several times to get the effect you want. Avoid the temptation to put on a ton of chalk and then do one coat of Dullcoat.

Andrew

I use artist’s chalks and I gring them into a powder. It gives me a wide variety of colors. After that I do the dull coat thing. A couple of words on that subject. I’ve found that it’s usually best to hold the can quite a ways from your work on the first few light coats. The paint should be just about dry when it hits the model. That way it doesn’t disterb your weathering and cause it to run. Also, then you seal it with the dull coat, it darkens the effect somewhat, so go with a slightly lighter shade then you want to end up with.

Let us know how it comes out!

thanks andrew, for the tips. i am really considerin this option for the first time. at least i can clen it off if it doesnt look right. with my model airplane and car experiences i have found that painting is not my forte and they tend to look globed or streaky etc. (just plain BAD ) is this dullcote stuff i have been hearing about in a pray i should use ,and if so, what i should holdthe can about what 6 inches from what i am painting ?
thanks
C.C.

Great tips, that is what i was looking for! I raelly dont know how soon i will stat a project like that tho? i am just starting my layout, and am carving the ponds and rivers right now. Just information for the brain you should say but, when i think i am ready to do that i am sure to use your tips . I will have to beg my wife to help me get some pic together on here and see what everyone thinks and comments tho for sure.
Thanks again Pcarrell, for the tips ,and encouragment !
C.C.

Bragdon Enterprises has some weathering powders that are awesome to use. I have the old powders that I think were chaulk but may be the same as what they carry now. At least it is in new boxes. You may want to check them out as they are real rust and brick etc. that is mixed with a dry adhesive. A Little goes a long way!

http://www.bragdonent.com/weather.htm

I’ve been pleased with the Bragdon powders, too. I have used ground up artist’s pastels, too, but the Bragdon stuff seems to stick better and doesn’t disappear as much under the dullcote. I don’t always use a sealer anyway, especially if the cars are going to only be used on my layout. I have quite a few weathered with ordinary pastel chalk and they still look good after years of use with minimal handling.

well that looks like some promising stuff this Bragdon powders. I also never thought of pastel chaulks the artist use either. am going to have to give both a try i think. Thanks for you guy’s feedback.
C.C.

The dullcoat that i use is the testors rattlecan stuff that people use on cars and plane models. I started out in model cars so thats what I was comfortable with, ya know?

I’d hold that can more like 18 to 20 inches away from your work. You just want to mist it the first 2 or 3 coats. Just enough to hold everything in place. After that I’d go with a light shot or two at say 12 inches. I think you’ll have problems if you shoot from 6 inches.

Remember, you can always add more chalk and paint, but it’s very hard to take it away!

Yeah, you bet i would have problems , heck i’d have problems anyway i bet. I have never had luck with paints. but, i guess i will have to just continue. thanks for the info carrell . I think most of my problems stem from prep and through inproper knowledge of how it should be done; ya know i alway seem to hae runs and such guess that is something ele i will just have to learn.
thanks again
C.C.

I tried chalks, but could not get results I liked. On a whim I saw some old eyeshadow that the wife was going to throw away,[:O] I tried it and that is all that I use now. 1. It will clean off with a damp rag if it does not look right. 2. It sticks without having to use dullcoat or any spray (the more you handle the item the harder it sticks). 3. A little goes a long way. 4. It’s cheap, just collect the stuff your wife or girl friend does not use or is about to get rid of. 5. Apply it just like chalks, only no grinding or sanding required. The only draw back I have found is my wife and daughters got mad [:(!] when I swiped their darker colors before they were willing to part with them!

that is pretty resourseful xmarine.lol, your lucky you made it this long swiping there stuff( just kidding) that is a idea i would have never though of in a million years. yesterday i was thinking back to about a month or so ago when i changed my belt on my truck and how i got this black stuff all over my hands that wouldnt come off easy( was a dummy and used that belt dressing before) things like that i have thought of but ,never makup. Great idea thanks for the input.
Thanks again
C.C.

The trick is to shoot from far enough away that the paint is semi-dry as it hits the surface. Also, keep the can moving. When I paint I move the can about 16 or 18 inches side to side, and a full swing one direction and back takes about 1 second. I start shooting before my subject (model) and finish shooting after it. Normally I am somewhere between 12 and 16 inches from my work when I shoot.

Try it on some scrap material, like painting a couple of sheets of styrene or something, and you’ll get the hang of it. [8D]