I am thinking of using 1/2" Foam board of course with foam board cross-bracing under the layout for a 4x8 layout which I read about in a design idea book , any thoughts from the pro’s?
Also I was wondering if anyone might have any ideas on how much Woodland Scenics, grass product and foliage one might need for a 4x8 layout with about 70% being landscaped. I mean how many of their foliage bags, I was thinking about 4 and about 3 canisters of 3 colors of grass product, with 1 bottle of the Woodland Scenic cement. Hopefully this is not a stupid question but I am trying to buy supplies now and will begin building when I retire next year. Pete Eighty1fourever@gmail.com
Why 1/2" foam? If it’s available, the 4" thick would provide you with a lot of opportunity for getting off the flat as a board look. Gouge out a depression glue down a new hill- it’s easier with the stronger, thicker foam base. Make sure you get the good insulation foam not the bead stuff. Amounts of ground cover vary with desired density. A good start is paint the foam a ground color after you’ve made all the holes and hills. I used about 3 quarts of ground goop (1 part vermiculite, 1 part cell-u-clay, 1 part latex paint, and 1/2 part Elmers white glue) covering little more than half of my logging railroad. A gallon jug of white glue won’t go to waste and it will save you a lot eventually; mix it with water and forget about the expensive WS scenic cement. The grasses, weeds, and brushy undergrowth used a full bottle of Woodland Scenic fine and coarse stuff and a small box of Super Trees along with their recommended foliage got me well into my 9 x 8 C shaped layout. The Super Tree beginner kit taught me how to make trees from bushes I found around the neighborhood and I’m quite happy with my trees- can’t recommend them highly enough. Exact amounts will depend on your taste- it’s your world use what you need.
“1/2 inch foam board covering a 4ft.x8ft.cross braced layout.” NO! NO! NO! One elbow or heavy hand on it will spell disaster ! I suggest the use of 5/8" plywood, which can be nailed, screwed, cut, and leaned on, with no chance of disaster. Many pros will suggest the use of 2" foam insulation board. Personally, I prefer to just use the 5/8" plywood, and cut as needed. If the legs of the layout are to be screwed to the floor, 16"-24" parallel spaced 1"x4" allow for cutting creeks, etc into the plywood. Cross bracing makes cut-outs difficult, whereas, parallel bracing can be boxed in, as needed… I assume that this is to be an Island or Peninsula HO or N scale layout. Any reach distance greater than 28"-30" is a NO NO! Do you plan on cut-outs for rivers or harbors? Do you plan to have overpasses, or under passes? Do you plan to construct mountains ? My own 24’x24’ around the room HO layout has two harbors and three ravines with cascading rivers, and one sawmill pond. The saw mill complex is mounted on a pull-out drawer, for access to unreachable areas behind. I have four Luan based lift-outs for access to other unreachable areas, which would need only occasional access. Dream-Plan-Build Please Post a diagram of your proposed layout, so that we can give you intelligent responses. Most of my mountainous layout is covered with 700 homemade deciduous and conifer trees, so that the area of weeds and grass is limited. Buy ground foam of various colors as you need it, which sounds like several years from now! Following, are several scenes from my 8 year old switching layout, to give you a few ideas. Bob Hahn Use of layered 1/8" inch sheets of sponge foam cut from loco box for creating forced perspective coniferous forest in 1"space.Click on any photo to enlarge it. [URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w
This idea comes from a book “N Scale Model Railroad That Grows” by Kent Wood & Ric LaBan from the publisher of Model Railroader magazine published in 1996. In the book it say’s Foam Core is a rigid lightweight board.
I have to start thanking all of you who have voiced your opinions I value all of them. And you are giving me ideas as well does this type of board make any difference Ed or anybody else? Don’t think I am disregarding your suggestions on the 2 to 4" foam either just weighing all my options.
This idea comes from a book “N Scale Model Railroad That Grows” by Kent Wood & Ric LaBan from the publisher of Model Railroader magazine published in 1996. In the book it say’s Foam Core is a rigid lightweight board. I have to start thanking all of you who have voiced your opinions I value all of them. And you are giving me ideas as well does this type of board make any difference Ed or anybody else? Don’t think I am disregarding your suggestions on the 2 to 4" foam either just weighing all my options. I kinda like your idea of using 4" for the built in scenery you could make doing a little carving,
Firstly thanks for the advice it’s greatly appreciated
Do you plan on cut-outs for rivers or harbors? Yes
Do you plan to have overpasses, or under passes? Yes
Do you plan to construct mountains ? Yes
and I know I want a switching yard too a little passenger mostly rolling stock though, thanks again for the pictures and your very welcome suggestions.
