Using hydrocal for a crossing

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Happy friday all

I currently use black foam for my 2 crossings and would like to change to plaster/hydrocal

The foam is just a bit high and some loco’s bottom out on it.

What is the best method to ensure the gap by the rail for flange clearance when pouring the plaster?

Thanks

2

Before the plaster sets up completely, use a piece of old hacksaw blade or similar to scribe the flangeways.

3

I use drywall compond for mine. I fill to the rail tops and when completely dry, (it does not feel cold to the touch anymore) I sand with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then run a broken off piece of hacksaw blade next to the rails to clear the flangeway, vaccum and paint. I imagine that hydrocal would be no different.

Scott

4

In an MR video I have it shows placing a strip of styrene next to each rail. Fill the center, when nearly cured pull out the styrene carefully and gently reshape the gap if necessary.

Good luck,

5

If you’re using Atlas or other similar track with styrene ties, use solvent-type cement to add pieces of suitably-sized Evergreen angle. Butt the vertical portion of the angles against the moulded-on spike heads and cement the bases to the ties. The gap between the angle and the rail will provide sufficient flangeway for most wheels.

I used .080"x.080" strip styrene, distressed with a razor saw to represent wood, to perform the same function on my late-'30s layout, then filled the space with gravel:

You can substitute Hydrocal or drywall compound for the gravel, too.

I also did some as all-board crossings:

…and some others as paved crossings, using .080" sheet styrene:

The .080" thickness puts the top of the crossing .003" below the top of the code 83 rail, preventing snags.

Wayne

6

Try using the paperboard from well rinsed milk cartons. Stand it against the flanges with the side of the paperboard that is normally inside the carton facing the space between the rails. The plastic coating inside the milk carton will release cleanly from the hydrocal once the hydrocal is fully set. This technique worked nicely for several crossing for me, and had the advantage of an excellent material cost (none!)

7

Thanks for the tips.

I’ll have to use some test track to experiment with a few of the ideas.

8

Building the crossing slightly lower than the top of the rails, helps keep you from doing damage to the crossing when cleaning track.

9

I’ve made a tool to scrap the plaster. Here’s my HowTo.

Wolfgang