I have a set of 2 microscale decals I plan to use on some of my P2Ks.
I plan to add an anti-glare patch to the noses of my GP30s, since they are supposed to have some black on the nose but they don’t.
I have some locomotive model plates I want to add to 2 SD9s, which have been weathered with a watercolor wash and some flat acrylic paint. They have SD9 stenciled on the sides, but I think they’d look cooler with the plates, even if it’s un-prototypical.
Any suggestions, since they included two sets of instructions, but recomendd a gloss finish?
BTW, I have an ADM elevator that I need to add decals to. It’s been painted with Krylon fusion paint. ANy suggestions for that would be nice too.
There is a possibility that you may see “silvering” on the edges of your decals if you apply them on a flat surface.
Apply your gloss clear over those weathered surfaces. Allow to cure.
Apply your decals.
Seal your decals with gloss or semi-gloss clear.
Apply a flat clear to match your weathered areas.
Your structure. If your surface already has a high gloss, you can apply your decals directly to the surface after you clean off all traces of wax, grease, and other oil residues. Seal with gloss or semi-gloss clear. Weather the building to your heart’s delight!
I should have mentioned I have no clear paints, and no airbrush. Where would you get the “3M Gray Scotch (scuff) pad”?
I bought a pack of Model Master sand paper just incase I needed to scruff the surface and some tack cloth to clean up the dust. (Including the dust already on it)
Maybe I should post pics.
The GP30:
The GP30 is getting a decal on top of the nose. I’ll remove the sand filling hatch and the grab iron before hand.
PolyScale (acrylic) and Floquil (solvent based) clears can be applied with a quality paint brush. Pour a small amount of clear into a separate vial or container. Thin it at first approximately 15% with the appropriate acrylic or solvent thinner. Apply to a scap piece of styrene to see how well it flows out and lays. Thin more if it is too thick. Once you’re satisfied, you can proceed to apply the clear to your model. Should be easy on a horizontal surface.
It’s been years since I’ve used clear in a rattlecan. If you wish to take this route, I think Testor’s solvent based clears in those spray cans are still decent products. You just have to be carefull with your technique since rattle cans can create a mess in a split second if you spray your model at too close a distance, or with too much material (been there-done that ![:O][:o)]), Plus, rattle cans produce a considerable amount of overspray, so you would have to mask off more areas to protect them.
BTW: A talented friend of mine told me that Badger Modelflex paints and clears can be used directly from the bottle without thinning.
Man don’t go sanding or you will be buying an air brush. MicroScale sell a little bottle of gloss something or other with a little brush applicator in the top and you put it just where you are going to put the decal. And it works.
I have also put SMALL decals on flat surface successfully. Float them on with Micro Set, and before they dry, put some Micro Sol on so it wicks up UNDER the decal. As it dries you can see where you stand. Will likely take several applications and extreme care, but it can be done. Apply Microl Sol gently with like a #8 brush because it will basically liquify the decals. As the decals come apart you can sometimes carefully separate and remove the clear sections between lettering, if you have any.
I’m confused. If you already have a clean glossy surface and use the Micro-sol / Micro-setl method, why would any sanding be necessary? Couldn’t you just apply the decal as previously stated, and apply a good flat coat and be done? This is also assuming that the surface does not need any factory applied lettering removed.
If the factory surface is glossy then clean it and decal it. If it is flat then gloss coat it with Future floor finish, let dry for about 24 hours and decal it. The Future can be applied straight from the bottle with a brush. If the area needs to be dulled down after decaling, the Testors dullcoat will work fine. You may have to thin it a bit to brush paint it.
