Has anyone used micro screws instead of track nails to secure track to wood surfaces?
The advantage, as I see it, is the ability to secure track without the risk of nailing the track too deep and pulling it out of gauge.
Rich
All I’ve ever used is nails and I’ve never had a problem with track pulling out of gauge. I use a small hammer and don’t try to sink the nail with one shot. Usually 3 to 4 gentle taps does the job. If your track is becoming out of gauge then your trying to hard.
As expensive as small screws are, I wouldn’t. I use small screws to hold my Caboose ground throws. McMaster Carr has the best prices on most hardware, but tiny sheet metal or wood screws are still costly. Many modelers are using clear latex caulk. I tried it on my current layout and think its the way to go.
Long time ago small screws have been available in most LHS here in Germany.
I did use them on one of my German layouts but they had no real advantage. It toke longer to lay the track, was more expensive and is was a pain to dismantle the track with all the glue from ballasting in the head of the screw.
I am using small nails to fix the track but it is actually the ballast that holds the track in place later. I do often pull the nails later when ballasting has completed.
The only problem with using caulk or any type of glue is that once it’s down it’s down for good. If you need to adjust, fix or tweak a section of track your in for a bigger job then if it was just nailed down to start with. This is what I do and I’m sure someone will disagree but when I lay track I like to glue down the cork and nail down the track. Run it for a few months and decide if I’m happy with it or if I need to improve it. If it’s good to go then I will start with the scenery around it and then ballast it last. Basically your gluing it down last instead of first. [B]
TA,
Do you remove the nails after ballasting or just leave them in place?
Rich
I use track nails, but I drill the holes first using a bit slightly smaller than the nail. Using a nail set and hobby hammer, I lightly tap the nail into place.
The black thin head is almost invisible since the ties on my flex track are so dark.
Enjoy
Paul
Rich, I just leave em. With the glue and ballast they aren’t going anywhere. If I did pull them up I would probably tweak the track so it might be more of a head ache then anything if I did. My club layout is built that way and it’s been going strong for twenty years.
I can see no advantages to screws in this application, Rich. It’s also possible to drive a screw too far. [swg] I use track nails (Atlas, I think) but install them using pliers rather than a hammer. Even if they accidentally get pushed in too far, I simply re-grasp them and pull them out. I can’t recall ever pushing them in far enough to affect track gauge. I leave the nails in place after ballasting, as the empty holes would probably be as noticeable as the nail heads. [(-D]
Wayne
Well, that does it. If Wayne is using nails, then I am using nails. [bow] LOL
Seriously, though, I use nails now and I have never driven them so far as to pull the track rails out of gauge. However I have broken ties by striking the nails too hard and deep.
I had thought about using a pin vise to pre-drill pilot holes and then use micro screws for better depth control. But, I think you all have convinced me to stick with nails as a better alternative to micro screws.
Rich
I used nails and push pins with white glue, once the glue was dry I removed the push pin and nails, the nails will show up in pictures. If I need to make any adjustments (and I have, misting the track softens the glue so it can be moved, caulk works the same way (unless you used Liquid Nails) Joe Fugate uses caulk, it is not permanent.
Lance Mindheim offers a great tutorial on how he approaches it, it may be worth a read.
Maybe you could reserve use of screws only to any really troublesome section of your trackage, which might develop in the future and nails won’t correct the problem. My 2 cents… papasmurf
I use acrylic/latex sealant for track adhesive. Track is easy to remove and re-position; just slide a putty knife under the ties and change as needed. Caulk that’s intended as a permanent adhesive is another story, and definitely hampers attempts at rearranging track.
Rich,
For your new layout plan, why don’t you want to use foam? It works great. Just secure the roadbed and track with cheap acrylic caulk (grey). Cork roadbed is my preference.
I use 3" drywall screws on the outside of the rails on curves, to keep the track down, while I solder the joints also.
WOW! A 3 inch screw?? That is a very long screw. Most roadbed material is not thick enough to hold a 3 inch screw. You working on a foam base roadbed ?
LOL, oops sorry, I meant I use a 2" screws. Just temporary until the caulk dries. I don’t screw them down tight, just enough to hold the rails in place.I have a 2" foam base, and cork roadbed.
Here’s photo of what it looks like…
Try using push pins to hold it in place, that’s what I use if I need to solder any curved track. I try to solder before I make the curve but sometimes it can’t be done that way. Sometimes it’s a lot easier to solder two or three pieces of flex track together when they are straight. Just be sure to solder the matching sides or your track will be useless.
I use Walthers Shinorha Code 83 flextrack, and find that even only soldering a single joint, I have a hard time bending it. It doesn’t matter if it’s the inside or the outside rails, I’ve tried both ways.
Maybe it acts different than Atlas flex?
That’s why I solder all joints, after the track is in place. It works for me anyways.
Sir, May I offer you a small piece of advice? Thank You? Save the screws for another project; Take the hammer and hit yourself on the head about three or four times, Observe what happens next. You will WANT to use either track nails or caulk to secure your track to your roadbed. Now, you will be pleased with the results, I am sure.
Jimmy
ROUTE ROCK!