Using Peco Code 83 Turnouts with Atlas Code 83 Flex Track

I know that you have to shim up the height of the Peco turnout with the flex track but with regards to rail joiners i read that the Atlas needs to be used and pinched on to the Peco rail. Do you trim back the plastic ties on the ends for the rail joiners? Does anyone solder feeder wires to the peco instead of rail joiners?

Thanks!

Corey

For years, I have used Atlas Custom Line turnouts with Atlas flex track.

But recently, I had reason to use Peco turnouts for the first time.

I did not have to shim up the height of the Peco turnouts to match the Atlas flex track. But, I did have to pinch the rail joiners with a pair of snip nose pliers to get a snug fit on the Peco turnouts.

I always remove the two end ties on flex track but never on turnouts.

And, no, I never solder feeder wires to the turnouts, but I do solder feeder wires to the rail joiners on the end of each leg of each turnout.

Rich

The rail foot on Peco track is slightly narrower than Atlas rail. I could not get Peco rail joiners onto Atlas rail, so had to use Atlas rail joiners slightly squeezed shut to fit tightly onto Peco rail, but I did not have to do any shimming to get the rail height the same.

I never solder a turnout into place. Turnouts are the only piece of trackwork with moving parts, so if anything is ever going to fail it will be a turnout. If they aren’t soldered it’s easier to remove them.

I have learned to solder jumper wires between the stock rail and closure rail on Peco turnouts, however, and not rely on the small tab that slips under the stock rail for electrical contact.

The last batch of Peco turnouts I saw now use a wire under the point rails instead of having the small tab, so I’m not sure if they still need the jumper wires added.

Thanks guys. Rich, if you dont remove any ties on the Peco turnout how do you get the railjoiner to stay on, there is only like 1/8 sticking out and there is no inset for the railjoiner like on a Atlas turnout. Thanks for your help.

Corey

That 1/8 or so is all I need for the rail joiner.

I like that because it makes it easier to remove the turnout if I have to, and it preserves the full integrity of the turnout if I ever decide to sell it.

Rich

Ok thanks Rich… i got some terminal joiners so think I will just use those.

Thanks,

Corey

Whatver you do, don;t buy more of the premade terminal joiners. For the price of a pair you cna buy a whole pack of regualr joiners and solder the wires on yourself. Pretty easy soldering job, too, you can;t melt a joiner with a soldering iron or even an oversize soldering gun (not the proper tool to use). I use joiners with power feeds for EVERY joiner on my layout (with flex track it’s not as many as you might think), and I’d go broke if I paid for the Atlas pre-made ones.

–Randy

Amen, amen, amen.

Rich

Incidentally, Atlas rail joiners are sold in packs with sets of four rail joiners joined together.

When you clip the set of rail joiners to form four individual rail joiners, cut off the excess metal sprue.

That excess sprue takes up unnecessary space on the rails, often resulting in the need to remove extra ties from flex track.

Rich