UPDATE: Since I originally posted this thread I’ve had a chance to try and experiment with the Plastruct Plastic Weld. While it is more aggressive, I’ve found that the Plastruct does hold better (and more quickly) than the Tester’s. I find that I can also achieve some fairly fine adhesive application using just the brush that comes with the bottle; mainly because the brush bristles in the Plastruct bottle don’t curve and splay out like they do in the Testor’s bottle.
So, while I will continue to use Testor’s liquid adhesive for some applications, I’ll definitely continue to use the Plastruct for a number of other applications.
As long as You gave an update…I thought I would fix the pic’s…even added one. Like I said above Plastruct Plastic weld is very strong when used correctly and for even stronger joints…lightly sand both pieces to be joined. I would not have even attempted doing the scratched bridge project with Testers.
Re control issues: I used to have that problem until I went into my local CVS and bought a few hypodermic needles for 25 cents a piece. Problem solved. Because they’re air tight, glue doesn’t foul the barrel of the needle. I squirt the rest back into the Plastruct bottle, draw some alcohol into the needle a few times, rinse with water . . . good as new.
I second Steve’s recommendation for the Faller product, which I first saw used in a Miles Hale instructional DVD video about building a DPM structure kit, but it was also strongly endorsed by Tom at South Side Trains here in Milwaukee. From time to time the narrow steel tube gunks up (shaking the bottle sometimes helps) but I find that touching a match to it ever so briefly (after removing it from the bottle itself, of course, and note that the threads are reversed from normal American practice when you do so) it’s as good as new again. I am a total convert to Faller.
Just some info…Faller cement contains Acetone 20%, a little more than you would find in Lacquer thinner…that’s really where the welding comes from. Plastruct Plastic Weld main ingredient is MEK, which is also found in Lacquer thinner, not as agressive as full strength Acetone. Both of which you will find in Automotive Lacquer thinner, not the big box store kind. Prohibitted in California and Canada, probably some other states, that I am not aware of…things change fast, in chemical dispersement to the general public.
Would have taken Me forever to build My bridge with that adhesive…
For finer work if you don’t have Microbrushes handy clip the Plastruct brush at a steep angle so you don’t pour on the glue into areas you don’t want glue to be seen.Stopped using it recently becuse it evaporates so quickly in the sealed bottle;thanks goodness for the Faller glue!
I don’t understand this part…I have used probably…certain that I have used over 15 bottles of Plastruct Plastic Weld orange bottle and never had any evaporate in the bottle. I never go below a half a bottle at a time. When I get to that point (1/2 bottle) I fill it with a new bottle and keep the half filled bottle in My desk drawer and use it to repeat the process. Sometimes that half filled bottle sits in My desk drawer for over a yr. and it is still a half bottle.
As far as using a Micro-brush for applying…it’s only a one shot deal, can’t be used again for applying the cement. I cut the brush head off and use the handle for applying CA to detail parts on models or even stick a mini alligator clip on the handle and use it for holding small parts to be painted with air-brush/ brush…sometimes multiple parts in many different holders. I stick the handle in a hole drilled in a piece of white pine to dry or paint. When I get to the point of too much paint on the brass alligator clip, I soak it in lacquer thinner, paint comes right off. I really never found a need to use a needle applicator for applying adhesive to anything I have built over the past 67yrs. started in HO in 1950 when I was 8yrs. old. That includes wood ship building.
Frank, I have to believe that he meant that it evaporates quickly in an unsealed bottle. If he did mean that, the solution, of course, is to close the bottle between each application of the glue. That takes a bit more time and effort, but it’s worth it. The last thing you want is to knock over an open bottle.
By the way, Frank, you recommended Plastic Weld to me when I was scratch building that Coors Family Mansion, and it is now my adhesive of choice.
And as long as You are here…In Your other thread about the resins. I had a feeling You were going to say the resin was Polyurethane resin and it has been My experience with working with that type of resin…is that it is brittle…meaning that it will break before it bends and using the resin to resin for adhesive is an iffy at best, to produce a strong bond…it will break at the seam. I was thinking that possibly You were using Fiberglass resin, which can be bonded with same and a lot stronger than what You are using. Also using epoxy or ca is about the only choice for gluing what You are using. All those Sylvan trucks I make are Polyurethane resin and the ony thing I use for adhesive is Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ which still flows easy, but is thicker than most CA’s. I can also bond most metals to the resin parts using it and produces a very strong bond.
Frank, I responded on that thread with some info about the chemical properties of the resin. Check it out if you haven’t done so.
I also responded on one of my threads that CA did finally work after I bought a fresh bottle of Thin CA and applied it sparingly to only one side of the wall sections to be bonded together.
Yes constantly closing the bottle of Plastruct glue was a pain and one time while wearing reading glasses I accidently knocked the bottle over and glue almost got all over a subassembly set aside. That was the reason for looking for another glue. A bottle that Mr.Clumsy here won’t tip it over !
I did that many yrs. ago…but learned from My mistake. For many moons now…I have little blocks of wood 2’’ square and 3’’ square 1’’ thick with a hole in the center that the bottle fits into (1 5/8’’ for Plastruct bottles) never tipped over another of anything. Cut on My drill press.
Frank & Steve - I’ve said elsewhere here how useful I find DeWalt 4-1/2" trigger clamps to be. When I open a bottle of paint or Plastruct solvent cement, I FIRST squeeze a clamp on its base so it’s nearly impossible to kock it over. Take it from your ol’ friend Paul, those things can be some of your very best friends.
Those clamps along with c-clamps are usually holding other project pieces…LOL.
I normally have all kinds of projects going on at the same time. I’m never bored with nothing to do…ask My 8 Grandkids…with 6 of them boys and into RC Trucks/cars and Grandpa, can fix/paint anything…LOL,LOL
Although it was not so clean when I started…I built it for My younger Son (It is a RC 1/14 scale kit) back in 94’ who is 38 now. He asked Me if I would rebuild it for one of His Son’s…of course I couldn’t say no. LOL…
A pic’ of how it looked completely dis-assembled with paint stripped off, ready for primer…
After running it a few times…He built a Plexiglass case for it with trailer attached and sits on a shelf in His two Son’s bedroom…only to be used when Dad is home…He’s learning Boyo! LOL.
