I have read a lot of info on weathering, and most of the modellers use Testors Dullcoat or similar products between powders or after applying decals to a glossy surface. Dullcoat is a laquer finish, and that usually means it doesn’t mix well with plastics and enamels. Is it formulated differently so as not to attack plastics and enamels? Is there a trick, or is it just point and shoot over whatever finish I wi***o use first?
As usual, thanks for all the wisdom.
Tim
While I don’t know (haven’t tried) about it on bare plastic, it doesn’t seem to affect the painted model surfaces I’ve used it on.
I’ve also used Krylon Matte Finish, which is a lot cheaper than Dullcote, and seems to yield about the same result.
Regards
Ed
Careful using Dullcoat if you have cleaned the model using alcohol, as it will frost (turn white) badly (had to strip the finish off and start all over again).
I tend to use Dullcoat for very rough or flat surfaces (such as people, rusting metal, weather buildings) and Semi-Gloss for things like vehicles, signs, aluminum finishes, etc - to me, it just looks better (dullcoat often has kind of a dusty look to it - I’ve read on this forum it’s because Dullcoat uses Talcum to help dull the finish)
Like anything use it in moderation. Most plastics can be affected by solvent based paints so the trick is use it sparingly and not all at once. Build the layers gradually and allow enough time to pass so the paint settles before applying your next coat.
Fergie
I used to dullcoat with the spray can, just didn’t like the way it lays on the model. I prefer Floquil flat finish or a slight mix with gloss air brushed for the final seal coat. The results are far superior to the spray bomb. If you don’t airbrush ,the Dullcoat is fine, worked for me for some time. Hint: when you find a good spraying nozzle switch it to newer cans and just keep it clean. I have noticed many nozzles that don’t work as good as others. Nothing worse than a nice big blob or spatter going on that nicely weathered piece.
Bob K.
One trick to using Dullcoat out of a rattle can is to put the can in some warm (not hot) water before you use it…warming the can seems to give you a finer spray and less spatter.
The Modelflex flat finish seems to result in a kind of milky finish, especially on dark colors, which some people like as part of the weathering process, as it makes the darker colors look a little faded out.
Recently, I just started using the Scalecoat Flat with an airbrush, which gives a nice dead-flat finish, and I’ve been quite pleased with the results so far.
Thanks for the info!! I plan on going with an airbrush eventually, but I have a few cheap old toy type freights I want to practice weathering now. I always put spray cans in warm water before use. The warmer the paint, the better it flows out.
I never dullcoat a model’s weathered surface. I use Dullcoat over the decals to hide their edges, but prefer the dead flat look of the weathering over the semi-shiny coverage of the Dullcoat. Dullcoat also helps to smooth out the weathering layers, which detracts from the effect’s realism. Of course, I don’t use weathering chalks, so I don’t have to worry about the weathering coming off when you handle the models.
I get a flat finish from Hobby Lobby. I don’t remember what they call it, but it is their house brand.
As others have mentioned, several light coats work much better than one or two heavier coats. On a few rare occasions when I’ve gotten too much on a model, I have noticed that the colors tend to bleed a little. Again, this isn’t a problem if you use several light coats taht are almost dry when they hit the model.dlm
I’ve used Dullcote in the past but now prefer the flat finishes available from ModelFlex and Polly Scale. Very smooth!
Regarding Milky Finishes:
With Model Flex, if the flat is sprayed on too wet, the appearance may look a tad milky (happened to me). Best to test a sample first before applying on your actual model. When sprayed properly, it yields some very nice results.
I have a can of Dullcote that I haven’t used in a lonnng time.
You’ll want to avoid using Dullcoat if you use weathering chalk: the Dullcoat just sort of soaks up the chalk and you lose the effect.
In 20 years of painting I have never had a problem with Dullcote attacking plastic or paints if the paint was cured. I still use it quite a bit with good results using some of the aforementioned tips (warming & clean nozzle).
I do prefer PolyScale Gloss and Flat thru an airbrush. I don’t like the Modelfex clear finishes at all (although I do like and use a lot of their mr paints).
I just weather it a little heavier and a little lighter (dullcoat seems to darken things down a bit I think) then I want the end result to be. [8D]