Various Engines Stopping Unexpectedly

Hi all, I’m modeling an HO layout running DC power. I’ve used Atlas track (code 100) and have wired all blocks and switches with Atlas supplied (and recommended) 20 gauge wire. My throttles (2) are standard Atlas units that you get when you buy the pre-packaged train sets that include an engine, 3 cars, caboose, track & a power pack.

I have various engines, but two specifically are giving me troubles: a Bachman “Daylight” steam engine, and most recently an Athern Genesis SD70ACe. Once the throttle is increased past approx. 30%, the engine will come to a stop within seconds. After waiting 1-2 minutes with the throttle set at zero, the engine will move again.

Is this an electrical problem? Too small of wire? Other problem?

Thanks,

Ryan

It sounds like an internal overload protector in those train set power packs is shutting down. You need to try a more robust power pack if you can borrow from someone. The total Wattage output of a train set power pack is usually very low.

If you haven’t soldered the rail joiners you can also be losing power through them. Even if they seem to be fitting tightly, there will be some electrical resistance at each unsoldered rail joint which will add to the load imposed on the power pack.

Check the screws at the rear of the power packs, where the track wiring attaches . You may have a strand of wire shorting out across 2 screws.

Ryan, to me it all so sounds like you need a better transformer. Do you have any plans on moving to DCC? If not, I had one of the MRC 9500 Power Command units and it was top notch.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/MRC-Power-Command-Train-Controller-p/mrc-ag9500.htm

It is pricey, you could all most go DCC for what the unit cost. I all so second seeing if you can brow another transformer first before you spend $120.00 on a power pack.

After I got the MRC 9500, my layout ran much better than with the cheap power packs I had. Then I went DCC, have not looked back, well to often that is! [:-^]

Cuda Ken

Your locos may have dual mode decoders that allow for dc or dcc running. My experience is that the dual mode models sometimes have trouble running on dc. I would think that problem would magnify itself without enough power coming from the power pack you have. The bachmann loco should have instructions and little jumper clips to unhook and bypass the decoder. I have no idea about the Athearn however.

There’s no way to turn off DCC operation short of removing the decoders. With a DCC system, CV29 can be set to turn off dual-mode operation in the DC mode, but not DCC.

Sounds very suspiciously like a short…I don’t think you need a new power pack. since those are fairly decent power packs.

Is the overload light lite up when the engines stop?

Troubleshoot the power packs by placing a voltmeter across the rails. Turn up the throttle and watch the meter. Check the voltage throughout the track. Not sure what the max output of these trainset units (14-16V), but you should see the meter increase up to full throttle. If no problem w/o engine on rails, then try while running one. If the voltage runs up and then jumps to “0” as the engine stops, the power pack went to overload. Keep checking a few times to verify the same results. Your engines are ones w/ fairly small current draw, but as mentioned, sectional track could be causing troubles w/ voltage drop/ higher resistance father from the terminal track. Do these engines stall approx about the same area of the loop?

If possible borrow a decent MRC or equivalent to test before going out to buy one.

Hi!

The power packs you get with a train set are typically minimal power for running one loco. I urge you to pick up a higher end MRC pack, which will give you excellent service for literally decades.

Of course, in addition to adequate power supplies, you need to assure that your track is clean, and also the wheel of locos and rolling stock.

Sounds internal to the power regulator or the power supply…whatever it is. It heats up and there is a thermal break someplace that draws down voltage. A short should stop things dead very quickly, I would think, although there seems to be a bit more tolerance for voltage leaks and shorts in DC.

I agree with metering across the rails at three or four places to see how the voltage holds up as you dial in more of it. Set the meter for DC voltage in the 14 volt range and watch the needle/display.

Even if you are getting adequate power I would replace the power pack with a better pack. My experience with train packs is that they will overheat after a while.