Retirement condo living has its benefits but having the right to run a vent from a hobby paint spray booth through an outside wall isn’t one of them. I’m sure I’m not alone with this issue so thought I’d ask here if anyone else in the same boat has found a suitable ventless enclosure.
I guess there’s always the patio, but maybe that’s not cool, either.
There are booths that filter out the suspended paint particles. I think you’re limited to non-solvent based paint in any case, because filters for home use, at least, can’t remove the solvent fumes from the air.
Thanks for the reply. And, yup … as you noted no such animal - in particular for solvent based paints which I’ve used (Floquil) since the 70’s and also have a well stocked supply. Never liked water based paint especially for plastic. Will have to continue to use rattle cans outside during warm (no wind) weather and work on other stuff during the winter months…
Around here, that “ventless enclosure” is a cardboard box, but it is, of course, not suitable. [swg]
If you have a window which can be opened (and which is not too close to your neighbours), you could use a regular vented spray booth. You’ll need some plywood or similar material to create a temporary “plug” for the opened portion of the window, with a hole cut in it for the paint booth’s exhaust.
If such a set-up would create a nuisance for the neighbours due to the paint odours, you could get some activated charcoal (used in two-stage respirators) to create an odour filter just ahead of the outlet for the spray booth’s exhaust. Activated charcoal is used in aquarium filters and is readily available.
A short length of the vent duct with some aluminum screen on both ends would probably be sufficient when filled with the activated charcoal, but make sure to keep it removeable so that you can change the charcoal when necessary.
You are, I trust, using a two-stage respirator when spraying lacquer-based paints?
Wayne
How about setting up the paint booth with a filter in front of a window. you could just open the window and put one open end of a “flexible duct” (like they use when working in underground tunnels) out the window.
If you have problem with a breeze coming in, you could cut a card board box so it would fit in the window and have a hole in the center for the duct. For a more permenent solution, you could use plywood, paint it, and also have the duct turn downward outside so no water can get in. For temporary use, only when you are painting, cardboard is lightweight, bends, easy to cut, and usually free.
There’s the stealth method. Point the fumy outlet duct towards the open window, then set a box fan behind this to blow out the window. If you pick the window right in relation to the wind and keep the “stealth” fan running, the fumes will go right out the window - and that’s all anyone will see, an open window.
Not exactly UL-approved, but could work in a pinch.
It is perfectly suitable, and for the amount of spray painting that the LION does, it is the only viable solution. All it does is keep the over spray from gunking up other stuff, but that is all I need it to do.
LIONS only use water based paints except when they use a solvent pased paint.
ROAR
I’ve been looking for a plan I once saw (and can no longer find online) of a 5 gallon plastic bucket charcoal filter trap. It had dryer hose running to it from a modeler’s spray booth. Artograph I think…
Anyone have a link or description of how to make one of these filter/containers?
Thanks!
Jim
If you are using solvent based paints, with say Toluene or Xylene’s in them, you would either have to vent the fumes outside or have a filter that worked like a respirator with the correct filter cartridges. Without proper filter cartridges, the harmful vapors would simply circulate back into the room and you would be breathing them. If you consult the NIOSH hand book for these solvent vapors, you will find they are hazardous. I know this from undergoing the 40 hour OSHA HAZWOPR training and many years of 8 hour anual refresher courses.
If you are painting with non-sovent based paints, such as acrylics, a particulate filter may be adequate.
OOPS, sorry, I forgot to say that I’m using only water based/acrylics due to past work place chemical sensitivities. I mostly want to make sure nothing stays and recirculates into the room. (No windows). I hoped to have the Artograph blowers/fans put all of the exhaust/overspray/particulates into the 5 gallon bucket catchment.
I haven’t used my larger (30" ) model artograph yet, so didn’t feel confident that EVERYthing would be captured by the booth’s filter pads or not. Can anyone advise about that with this particular booth?
Serious airbrush learning and structures begins this winter.
Thanks, Jim
If you’re using only acrylics, there’s no need for charcoal in the filter - its purpose is to remove the noxious fumes and accompanying odour.
For capturing the dust component of airbrushing (acrylics or solvent-based paints), a simple fibreglass-type furnace filter works quite well. My spray booth is vented to the outside, but I made a simple holder for one-half of a particular size of furnace filter. Its primary purpose in my booth is to keep the dust from reaching the fan, which is an in-line type located in the exhaust duct.
I’m not familar with the fan of which you speak, but it would likely work best if the airbrushing is done within a confined area - that cardboard box to which I referred might work. Cut a hole in the rear of the box (or top or side), then cover the opening with the filter medium. Place the intake side of the fan immediately beyond the opening.
Start the fan before you begin painting - you want to establish the airflow so that the air coming into the front of the box and, subsequently, the paint dust which is produced, is drawn immediately to the filter.
The pleated paper filters will likely collect a larger percentage of dust than the fibreglass ones - for an all-indoor operation, they may be preferable. However, they are generally more expensive and will likely plug much more quickly, too.
Wayne