I’m going to be doing a narrow around the wall shelf layout that will be double decked and only 2 feet wide at maximum (O scale). I am going to completely complete the top level first so that I can start running trains. I’d be interested in sharing so ideas and techniques with anyone considering this idea.
The purpose of the narrow shelf will be:
Utilize the rest of the basement for pool table, bar etc
Easy to wire
Less benchwork
Easy to reach trains (uncouple/couple, fix derailments, manual switches etc)
See trains up close and personal
The shelf will be 1 to 2 feet wide at maximum.
The turnaround loops at either end will be hinged to fold down when not in use.
BTW, I’ve never seen this technique used before except the layouts that travel near the ceiling. This is NOT that type of layout. Also, I’ve seen some narrow-shelf layout that don’t qualify for my description because peninsulas jut out at various locations, making utilization of the rest of the basement as a recreation area null.
Have seen pictures a few times, not usually double stack, the last time was shelf after shelf, floor to ceiling, shelf/track support, N scale, but he kept adding shelfs and tracks. 2 feet is wide, not for O or 027, more commonly, 18 inches. Often the bottom shelf outer edge goes all the way to the floor for storage. Support of the upper shelf depends on your wall, how far you want the supports apart. I’d think building a box frame for the shelf, thin plywood, foam could mae a strong light rigid frame so the front edge only had to be supported 8-10 ft., would support it at points along the front for the lower level some blocking, but none on upper. Possible supports, PVC pipe vertically, wood dowels, 1.5 to 2 inch plywood vertically. I’d want to keep stuff from depending on the wall other than stablizing attachement, unless the wall was concrete block… Not sure how much weight you’re dealing with.
Been toying with that sort of layout for display and operation of my 1/50th scale PCC, but I just need part of a street, sidewalk and building fronts.
Here ae some ideas for building materials that might save on the weight of the layout, without scaraficing much in strength.
Use 1 inch thermofoam board (Mansville board is a brand name). Glue quarter inch plywood to both sides. Then cut it with a saw to the desired widths. These “boards” will be nearly as strong as plywood at a fraction of the weight. They also cost considerably less than 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch plywood. We are building an entire layout of tnis stuff.
As far as scenery goes, stay away from plaster and hyrocal. they are both ‘messy’ and heavy. Try using Geodesic foam. Good palce to check this out is Bragdon Enterprises http://www.bragdonent.com . This stuf is amazing, easy to use, not too messy and, best of all, if you don’t like the shape of something, you can can easily change it with breaking it or cracking it or sanding it. It also goes up very fast and efficient. In addition, it is realtively cheap. A $40 kit would probably complete the scenery shell for your entire layout! Check out the website I listed, it has lots of information on the stuff. No, I do not work for Bragdon Enterprises, so I’m not representing them in any way other than the fact that the product is outstanding.
Just some ideas that I hope will help you in some way. My son and I are also looking into doing a small ‘shelf type’ layout at home, but in HO. something to ‘tinker with’ when we are not at the train club.
I’m building a shelf layout of similar proportions, just in HO scale. One thing to consider is how much “around the wall” your layout is going to take up–if your layout goes completely around the room, and you don’t mind having some sort of drop-down or swing-out gate by the door, you can have a complete loop without putting in blobs (turnaround loops) that will take up more space. Another “plus” of an all-the-way-around-the-room shelf is that your curves can be that much broader, which is important in O scale. Keep in mind that even a fairly sharp O scale turn-back loop will be around 4 feet by 5 feet, and won’t be able to handle large engines. Putting the curves in the corners also allows you to view trains from the inside of the curve, which looks a lot better.
The Kalmbach 101 LAYOUTS book has some around-the-room layout plans that don’t fill the center of the room, mostly point-to-point, that could be adapted to O scale. Also, it’s very easy to expand straight or L-shaped shelf track plans merely by adding a few 90-degree turns in between towns–which also increases apparent space.
I’m about 2/3rds of the way through building an 8ft by 1ft shelf layout in HO, mainly for the reasons described above - it’s in the spare bedroom, and I’d rather not have to move the layout if someone comes to stay, so a shelf layout is a logical response. I’m contemplating adding a 4ft by 2ft board at one end which will feature a couple of 90 degree curves and a couple of switches to allow me to operate 5-unit articulated freight cars - they almost fit at the moment, so an extra board should make this possible.
I had a narrow “O” gauge shelf layout before we moved. I used 2" pink foam board supported by metal shelf brackets. No plywood at all. 3/4 of it was 12 " wide. I had 2 tracks with 072 and 054. One side was 24" wide for the passenger terminal. I glued 1/2" blue foam board to the back side and used sky w/cloud wallpaper about 12 " high for a background. Where it crossed a window I used a steel arch bridge. I was pleased with this setup.
I cant recomend much, but coming back to the hobby 30 yrs later and with limited space I’m using for N scale shelf switcher a plastic coated closet (US) rack that hangs off wall mounted rails. Instead of a wall I’m going to implant the wall rails into some heavy iron RSJ bars as ‘feet’.
Overall size is 1200mmx 250 (4’ x10") and gives a small standalone (literally!) section; cover with layers of broken up ceiling tiles (fibre board- dont know what US equiv. is) and then scenic in usual manner.
This will store in closet, car for carrying etc. and displays, with only a samll associated carry box for rolling stock, small buildings and power.
I’ve kinda taken NTRAK and broken [ it ] in half again; if I get keen more modules can be fashioned, and they’ll slot away easily.
dave
I’VE FOUND IT NECESSARY TO REDUCE MY OWN N-SCALE RAILROADING TO A 6-FEET BY 1-FOOT LAYOUT, MADE BY SPLICING TWO SCRAP PIECES OF EXTRUDED FOAM TOGETHER. IT RESTED ON A NARROW SHELF NEAR MY BED. SINCE WE MOVED, IT NOW SITS ATOP TWO FILING CABINETS IN THE FRONT ROOM OF OUR APARTMENT. i’M USING PAINTED CARDBOARD AND PHOTOMURALS AS PART OF THE BACKDROP.
For the shelf, just use 1/4" plywood, supported at every 24" or so with a 1 x 4…even a 1 x 2 would work. To hold up the upper level, do the same, but instead of building some sort of leg structure as you would on the bottom, hold it up with steel wires, hidden among trees.
Does anyone know about the possile existence of lightweight, perhaps aluminum, channel etc to be used with very little damage to a wall for support of an N-Guage shelf system?
Wow, didn’t expect to see this thread resurrected. I’ve built 3 layouts since posting this; first, the shelf layout; using Closet Maid steel shelving and brackets from Home Depot. They come in sizes from about a foot to over 2 feet.
Then scenery begins
Then we run trains
THEN,
I got tired of trains; I got to a point where I HATED trains; so, I built an abandoned railroads so I could enjoy the right of way without trains
Then,
I started missing my Lionel trains but decided to eliminate the center rail and convert them to R/C using a motor boat control setup for about $80; and I got bored of trains in the house, so I took them outdoors, where I run them in the sun and in the rain and at night and in the snow. AND YES, these are O Gauge trains; NOT G.
You might want to take a trip to your local Home Depot or Lowes and check out the hollow-core doors. You’ll find several widths, 1 ft and up. I started an HO scale switching layout on a door and you can probably use the same idea.
I picked up a pair of 1 ft wide doors intended for a bifold in a 24 in. opening for about $25…that’s about $12 each. I use a single 1 ft wide door on a cantilever bracket mounted to the wall for my layout. It seems like a good base for the layout, considering its already fabricated, its flat, and relatively light weight. (I have a set of shelves on the wall over my work area. These are composite, formica-covered shelves on cantilever brackets. I was surprised to find that the 1ft x 6.5 ft hollow-core door actually weighs less than the 6 ft. composite shelf that I replaced.)