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Video: Building Model Railroader’s Winter Hill quarry branch, part 4
Before laying the track, its a good idea to run a sanding block over the cork to make sure there are no high points (especially between sections of cork) and also knock off the ragged bits where the cork starts sloping (from when you separate the cork halfs). Actually I think I saw this tip in an MR artcile.
I do not think that it is a good idea to glue down the turnouts as it may be hard to remove them if you need to work on them or replace them without tearing them up.
I think that the DAP for track laying is fine, but have you considered contact cement for laying the cork? I have used it for may years with no problems, and it eliminates the longer drying time for that phase. Brush it on the cork and the plywood, wait 2-5 minutes, press it in place and start laying track.
Helpful. Thanks.
THAT IS ONE WAY OF DOING IT
Is a cork roadbed still necessary if Bachman track is used on a layout? Is Bachman track even an option for a layout?
Can Cody tell me how to, and how hard it is, to remove or replace track and turnouts that have been glued to the cork with DAP 230?
Thanks
Bill
I’m really enjoying following this series, great job MR.
Enjoyed guys your tips are always helpful…
Hi, by using the caulk to adhere the track to the cork road bed, one would have to be certain that its the final position as changing ones mind later is too bad;-) I really do enjoy listening to your voices the accents are great… Cheers
What happens when you want to make changes down the road, I guess you go out and buy all new cork & track? Nailing is the BEST way to go. I’ve got cork I’ve used on 3 different layouts now, the same with my track. I can’t believe the hobby wants people gluing down track and cork. I’ve never agreed with this practice and never will!
GREAT method, I use a similar technique. For track to cork I use Liquid Nails for Projects. Works GREAT and it is NOT all that difficult to pull up the track should you need a change, just run a 1" putty knife carefully under ties. It works well on code 70 track as I am re-designing a space moving track for the 3rd time with no damage!
hi this method seems to be a permanent means of securing track. Is there another way of laying track?
thank you.
by the way this is my first venture.
I agree, I never glue my track or cork because I seem to change my track plan ocasionally and it’s much easier to move.
I’ve not glued mine done as i’ve layed the track on Homesote cut to be the roadbed it’self. Alot of work i will admit. I then lay the track out putting shims where needed, make sure the joints are even and tight tack nailing ,and then test run some of your most stubborn locos and rolling stock over it. Everything great, ok now comes the ballast and fixitive(glue). I prefer Micro-Marks scenery cement as it has a laytex in it that makes it easy to change/take up track and not ruin it beyond reuse. Also does have some sound damping(echo) aspect and now you really hear the wheels at the point of sound creation. As usual, you still have to do the pre-wetting, (Iuse the cheapest rubbing alcohol ) first then the cement making sure it’s well coated.
I agree with the above comments. I use nail on cork over foam. I see where this would be a time saver (installing it) but it does seem that taking it up (if you had too) would no doubt ruin the cork and the track. With the already scarce source of cork road bed, at least in my area, and the rising cost of track I do what I can to make things last. I enjoy the videos.
Enjoyed your tips always like seeing different ways of doing things
Our Module Club members use Liquid Nails to glue down roadbed and track. Since we transport our modules to 6-7 shows a year and set up in different environments including outdoors, we found Liquid Nails holds up very well.
Great idea for layer cork and track! Many thanks!