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Video: Checking HO couplers
I mounted an Atlas Rerailer and a short piece of track to an 18-inch long 1 x 2 board and attached the Kade coupler gauge with a screw through the hole already drilled out in the gauge. This tip appeared in an issue of MR or one of their other publications. It works great!
Very useful information
Very good as all ways.
Merry Christmas!!!
I like this idea of refreshing old tasks and maintence
great tip andy as always we look forward to them. WE WANT TO WISH YOU ALL MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM CRT/FRIENDS 4 MEN CHARLIE [ME] JAMES, WES, DON, 4 WOMEN GOLDIE, JANE, PEARLY MAE,JOSAPHINE. THE YA-PO-HA MODEL RAILROAD CLUB. THE GIRLS AND US ARE BUILDING ANOTHER LAYOUT IN MY APT,GOT THE WOOD READY TO START SCREWING .HA-HA ! MERRY CHRISTMAS
Thanks Cody. You always come up with some great tips. The little attention to detail makes a huge difference to the overall operation of the railroad. No more uncoupling of cars in a tunnel or at the back and hard to reach part of the layout.
Keep up the good work.
Chester
I finally purchased a coupler height tester and found that my worries were over. Anyone who tries to fix a coupler height problem is foolish. I am also a big fan of Cody’s “helpful” hints. Keep up the good work.
Very informative. Is it possible to have a demonstarion using a locomotive.
Great tool for some very old cars in need of adjustment
Cody -
Great job, as always. I think you and the video medium were made for each other.
A few additional thoughts –
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Make sure that the test track used to check the coupler height does not undulate in the up-and-down-direction. Otherwise the coupler height will be determined by the location of the gauge and car on the test track.
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Adjust the coupler height BEFORE adjusting the trip pin. If done in the opposite order, the coupler pin will have to be re-adjusted when the coupler height is adjusted. Those of us who are mechanically challenged learned this the hard way! Oh yes, one more thing on this topic: the pin height can be lowered by flipping Kaydee’s pliers upside-down.
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If the coupler box cover is metal, it is possible to keep the coupler from drooping by bending the side tabs inward slightly with needle-nose pliers, so the lid holds the sides of the coupler box more tightly. Make sure the box lid is ALL the way on, but not to the degree that it pinches the coupler and keeps the centering spring from snapping the coupler back to the center position.
Thanks for the video: you folks are spending my subscription money wisely.
G. Welles Still
The coupler adjustment is great if you want to raise the coupler but what about lowering the coupler? File off the centre pivot not affecting truck pivot or shim the coupler box!
Excellent tip for novices and old-timers alike!
Thanks Cody,
Very helpful!
Good info. as always. Thanks and Happy Holidays
I have taken Rich Woodruff’s comment right into my program track. You just have to remember to insulate the Kadee Height guage away from the program track or you would have a dead short. Each time I program any engine, I can check the couplers, and when I want to check the rolling stock, my track is readily available. Run the car over the re-railer and right down to the end for the coupler height guage.
Nice presentation, Mr. Grivno! I’ve made up a coupler gauge jig that has 3’ of track on a 1"x2" lath. At each end of the track, I fastened a Kadee coupler height gauge and I keep a kadee uncoupling magnet taped to the side of the jig to test how well the coupler “push” feature works.
With this jig I can test both ends of all rolling stock and test-run locos as well.
Good tip.
Whoa Cody… I wonder what HO Scale speed/pressure you use to ‘bang’ cars into the coupler test stand. I’ll never be brave enough to do that! Excellent information.
As long as you are checking out your car I would recommend that you also check the wheel set gage and car weight.