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Video: How to model a “patch out” freight car
Really great tips on your shows Cody,I am learning more than ever,like your shows alot thats why I subscribe to Model Railroader,all you guys are great!
Hi cody , A tip for you, the brush you apply the micro set with , take the other end and make a cone shape . wood brushs i use pencil sharper…plastic? try it if not shape it by hand. it’s safer & softer then the modeling knife on the and the decal & paint . Thx…toby from CA.
Instead of using a xacto knife to position decals on a model use a small pointed sable brush instead, or even a toothpick is often handy to have available. Never would I take a chance scratching the model up or damaging the decal with a blade.
Were ther ever any patchouts for SPSF merger?
this is going to be great for my models that come with the same numbers… easy and effective for my freelance industry. A 5 out of 5 rating could only be awarded if you had patched out all my models for me. Cheers
In a former life when I was much younger I used to travel the US doing contract restencil work for railroads and leasing companies. once did a unit train of 110 cars in about 2 days. Lot of work but good money.
Cody took more time with the model than I often did in the real world. I would buy gallons of the closest color I could find to the car at a local hardware store. Then I would quickly use a roller to cover the end and the sides. Wait until the paint was dry and then quickly stencil the new marks. Changing numbers made the job harder but the rate would go up.
I have a question, Cody. Did you really say, “…steamed distilled water…”? I ran this video back and forth three or four times and it certainly sounds like that’s what you said. Do you really use warmed, “steamed” distilled water; that’s a new one on me and I’ve been decalling for 30+ years.
Great info. I have been trying to figure out how to best change numbers on two of my GN engines. I have 3 with the same #. and it is hard to get the right colors or size numbers.
Nicely done, Cody. I always enjoy your informative articles and getting to actually see stuff done is cool.
Thanks for the insite never used steamed distilled water for decals, also normally use a plastic type pic for placement.
Quick, easy and painless!
Codie _ Thanks for the tips and as usual - Great Job look forward to the tips…
That’s cool Cody!!, I have at least 5 Southern Pacific Loco’s I would like to patch, thanks for the info.
A clever technique for patch-outs, thanks, Cody.
Since I’m modeling the WC in the early 1990’s, I need to “patch-out” my BN and SOO locos with WC reporting remarks and numbers.
Since my CL&W frequently uses used western power (UP, CNW) I’ve found that the yellow trim film doesn’t always cover the original logo’s or lettering. If this is the case the original lettering needs to be removed before applying the trim film. I’ve tried to put 2 layers of yellow trim film on the model with only limited success.
Thanks! I’ve got a SP SD50 that I’m thinking of patching, and this was really helpful.
I think the video was informative, but I have never used distilled water unless I had it on hand for some other purpose. And, common tap water has not been a problem and no residue has ever been observed. But, it was a good video.
Won’t the letters come up onto the sponge when blotting?
Great video, I am new to model railroading, so I would like to know what cars should I patch out?