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Video: Making straight cuts for benchwork
Nicely Done
Jig saw blades tend to break. As a result, it is MOST important to say some thing about safety goggles and wear them in the video.
Nicely illustrated.
good tip, easyly understood
one of the better tips I have seen. Even I can do that!
Good tip, well produced with great close-up shots. The different kinds of saw blades for various materials would make a nice follow-up.
haven’t do that with a jig saw yet, but will give it a shot next time. most of the time i use either a table saw or a chop saw. currently building steeps for a 1 1/2 scale caboose.
A chop saw is even more handy for straight cuts. I got a bench top one at Big Lots for $29.95. I have it, a bench grinder and a drill press all mounted to an old wood TV roll-around stand/cabinet. I can’t imagine how I ever did without these tools for so long!
Well, David, I see that you cut with the left side of the saw base against the guide for both cuts. But the first saw allowance was 1-5/16 inch, and the second was 1-5/8 inch. Do as I do but not as I say? 
Nice demonstration. I hope to try it out. By the way, don’t you mean “Give it a Rip?”
How can I get one of those nifty Model Railroader aprons?!?
Good start for basic woodworking. Fear of making a mistake is not a reason not to try.
If you reverse the speed square so the wide lip is against the work, there shouldbe no need of clamping.
This is an excellent tip, & I would like to downloadthe clip to a c.d. Is this Possible
What a helpful video - thanks!
Great when working with teenagers that donot power tool experience.
Good information for those building a layout with minimum tools.
There should be more assembly hints like this for the beginner.
Excellent Video - Walthers and Model Railroader - thanks
Nice video, Dave. , I see two other issues.
First, make a decision whether to cut outside the line, on the line, or inside the line. It depends on circumstances of course, but I doubt that cutting ON the line in the hardboard illustration will give you exactly two inches. Usually it doesn’t matter if you cut all the same.
Second, when you finished your rip, you held the end nearest you to keep the saw from binding and to keep your stock from splitting. That’s harder to do for a longer piece, or if you are cutting on already existing benchwork. For me, it’s good to have a buddy, or a clamp, ready to hold the “near” end after the rip is a third to a half done, again depending on circumstances.