I recently installed the Walther’s 130’ T/T in my engine servicing yard module as part of my set up. I did the install about two weeks a go and have not yet indexed the unit or programed the track positions as of yet. I am building the Walther’s roundhouse in place and was setting my track and gluing/nailing it down etc. I tried to rotate the bridge and it would get to a few spots on the table and just stop and ratchet it’s self. I immediately stopped t and checked to see if there were any obstruction in the pit. I found none but vacuumed it anyway. I tried it again same thing. This continued several times so I figured before I threw the bridge across the room in disgust I would walk away. Good Idea! So I attempted to remove the motor cover located on the bottom side of the bridge but when it didn’t come off easily I put the screws back in and tightened them up. It seemed to have helped a little as it will now make a full 360 revolution but it sounds sort of like an old coffee grinder. I did a visual inspection under a magnifying glass and saw no obstructions in any of the gearing etc.
Anyone had any similar type problems who might be able to shed some lite on the subject all responses will be greatly appreciated. I was wondering if this could be happening because I have not yet programmed the indexing system?
My experience was entirely unlike what you describe for my 90’er, so I would suggest a call to Walther’s to seek either advice or approval to send it back.
Sorry, but I fear you have a lemon.
Yup I’m afraid I have to agree with you. The reason why I choose the Walthers over all the other choices for a guy like me who’s modeling ability is less then perfect the plug n play features were great and it ran so sweet right out of the box at first. Of course Walthers is closed over the weekend so agony will hang over me for the next two days…lol I am going to call the store in Pt. Pleasant NJ where I purchased it. The guy is a wealth of information and a master model railroader by every one’s account. I’ll see what he has to say.
Thanks for the reply.
I have had similar problems. The tiniest spec of ballast can stop bridge from rotating. You first need to determine if the obstruction is in the TT ring or the gears of the motor. If the bridge is stopping at the same place in the TT, that spot likely has the obstruction. Lift the bridge and rotate it a few inches and then see if it stops in the same place. Ballast can wedge between the cogs of the TT ring and sometimes they are hard do see. If it is wedged tightly, the vacuum may not be getting rid of it. Do a close visual inspection, preferably with a magnifying glass. I’ve used the side of a jeweler’s screwdriver to clean out the cogs. If the TT is rotating a few inches, then stopping, you probably have gotten something lodged in the motor gears. If those gears have rotated so the problem spot is not visible when you remove the cover, you might not see the obstruction. I’ve never been able to move the gears manually so you may have to use the TT to rotate the gears to various positions so you can find the problem. If you are still having problems, one more thing you might try before contacting Walthers would be check the voltage on your power source. Use a voltage meter. Don’t rely on the voltage listed on the power pack. Often, the true voltage is not what is listed on the pack. If underpowered, that might cause the TT to have trouble rotating. If overpowered, it can fry the circuit board which is what happened to me. Walthers replaced it for free and recommended a Miniatronics power source. It is very important that you use voltage within the range recommended by Walthers. Good luck.
One more area to check is the clearance between the rails on the bridge and the rails of the tracks leading up to the pit. The rails on the bridge are not permanently attached to the ties so they may be sticking out a bit.
Larry
Thanks for the input I’m just taking a break from laying the approach & stall tracks another giant pain in the butt. I think I might have dis logged the flea’s hair that was binding up the gears. As you mentioned it doesn’t seem to take much to stop the gears cold. I will double check the voltage as you suggested. I had a new MRC pwr. supply in my hands yesterday at the train store and want to kick myself in the butt for putting it back on the shelf.
As far as the distance of the bridge tracks from the stall tracks I’m at about 1/16" as suggested. Believe it or not the best way I’ve found to check for alignment and a smooth transfer is to run my one of my GP38’s across the bridge and on to the stall track. I’ve been trying everything from a laser line level to a steel rule straightedge and my eye seems to be working the best so far.
I have made note of all your suggestions and before I call Walthers I will go down the list and check each suggestion at least twice and see how things work out. Thanks for the help guys.