I would like to use the new Walthers’ 90’ powered turntable (933-2840) in the layout I’m designing, however, my wife currently has me on a budget. So, I’m wondering if anyone knows if I can use the Walthers’ non-powered 90’ turntable (933-3171), and then, when I have sufficient funds swap it out for the powered one? That is, are the pits for each the same, or do they actually have different sizes/shapes/mounting points? Thanks!
-aka
AFAIK, the difference between the powered and non-powered is simply the motorizing/indexing unit (which can also be bought as a seperate piece I believe).
Although don’t quote me, I think the pit sizes may be slightly different. It seems (judging from the photos) that the lip of the pit (the outside ledge that holds the pit level on the table) is thicker on the kit version then it is on the Ready-to-run version. Not quite sure if this makes a difference. Also, depending on what is pre-made and what needs to be assembled with the (almost Ready-to-run version) of the motorized turntable, you may need to replace the entire assembly.
BTW I have heard that the R2R version of the turntable is quite reliable, and really worth the $300 or so it costs to buy it, although I too am on a budget and own the kit version ($25 CDN at my LHS).
edit: The Kit version was made many years before the R2R version and as far as I know can only be made operational using the optional motorizing kit. There is no indexing kit already made to drop into place for the Kit version of the 90’ turntable as far as I know.
Ghonz
Good luck finding a 90’ kit. They are not do in until July or later. You can motorize it later if you want. Don’t know if the two are interchangeable or not.
I’ve heard a lot of complaints about the electronics in the RTR 90’ and 130’. A few posts here about parts or whole units being sent back to Walthers because they didn’t work. Walthers doesn’t seem to ask questions about the bad units so apparently they are aware of defects in the electronics.
I have used both types. Unless Walthers adjusts the dies for the new kit version so that the indexed version and it can be swapped out of the same hole, the kit version’s hole will be about 1/2" smaller than the one needed for the indexed model.
I had many problems with the motorized kit version. I would not recommend it. Some guys, though, have reported great success with them. Mine required extensive fiddling to get it to work reliably. Not so with the indexed version. It worked as designed right out of the box.
My 90’ RTR works great. I am very careful about cleaning it. I also put a Rubbermaid container about 8" tall and 16"x20" or so over it between operating sessions. I rezero it at the begning of each operating session and have had absolutly zip trouble with it.
I had a Walthers 98’ (Heljan) turntable with the motor drive that I replaced with this 90’ model after much frustration. I would not consider me a neophyte modeler. It has a similar drive motor as their current 90’ model and it was always a pain in the neck. The center bearing is not precise enough and that gave problems as well as the drive. I finally threw the motor into the bash box and put a large masonite circle to drive it with the 0-5-0 by reaching under the layout. Now the turntable is in the bash box also. The circle worked alright, but the 90’ Built Up is a charm. I wished you could dial a paticular track, but I only have 12 tracks to stop at. Again I had absolutly no trouble with it. You hold the button down until you get close to your track then let go and it indexes perfectly every time. There are previous threads you may want to look up if you go the big bucks route as the programing instructions are not absolutly clear. I wish the RTR 90’ was available, It sure would have sure saved me alot of agrivation. If I ever need a dummy turntable I got one! To bad you can’t turn a NYC Mohawk on a 90’r, if they came out with a 105’ get one and replace my 90 and figure out somewhere else to use it.
Paul
Dayton and Mad River RR
I am using Wathers 90’ turntable (933-3171) with the optional motor and am happy with it. It not being indexed is a drawback but I do not plan to spend money on an indexed RTR version.
I run power to the motor via a spare DC train transformer which allows me to make the turntable crawl. This makes it easier to stop when the adjoining track is lined up. I can also lean right over the area with a finger working the on-off-on switch. I wired a DPDT switch for reversing the turntable’s track power as needed.