Wondering if you all can answer what I am assuming is a rather easy question.
I have a couple of the Walthers 46’ RTR gondolas. I’ve had one for a while and just purchased another a couple of weeks ago. Their detail is good and I’ve been fairly happy with them.
One problem though. Both gondolas roll well on straight track. But as soon as they enter a curved section of track - either an 18’ or 22" radius - the metal wheels seem to bind up slightly. The wheels still turn but you can definitely feel some resistance if you pu***hem by hand. I notice it slightly pushing one. With both hooked together, it’s noticeably more. Both of them are outfitted with P2K 33’ wheels.
Is this just a case where a small washer between the frame and the truck will provide enough separation to free things up? The trucks are NOT too tight and they swivel easily. I’ve even loosened them up more but it has resulted in very little change. Has any of the rest of you had the same problem/issues with these gondolas?
I’d appreciate any suggestions you might have. Look forward to your hearing your responses.
Sounds like the wheels are hitting part of the underframe or couple pockett or some other detail. Adding a washer may help, but will raise the coupler by the amount of the washer. Turn the car over and see what its hitting when it swivels. Since all the railroads that I model used Andrews trucks under their USRA gons, I replaced all my Walthers trucks with Accurail trucks.
I did the same thing that Dave did with his USRA mill gons (Accurail trucks and P2K wheelsets), and haven’t noticed any binding issues. Walthers seems to have this problem with several of their new cars, especially the cabooses, where the wheel flanges rub up against some part of the frame. A little cutting/hacking or changing out the trucks usually does the trick.
I had a hard time finding any Accural trucks at my LHS’s so I tried a set of P2K Andrews trucks. Voila! Took care of the problem. Now it rolls TOO well! (We should all have that problem, huh?
Thanks again for all you who responded to my inquiry! This forum has been very helpful to me. I hope in some way I’ve been as helpful in my responses…
P2K andrews trucks? Accurail Andrews? I am confused.
I have several walthers RTR (ore cars, bulkhead flats and gondolas) that like to find places to rub and kind of not want to roll. As a result of this thread I have decided that I will also experiment with replacing entire trucks. (With P2K 33" wheels)
Do you have the part numbers where I may find them either on Walthers or thru the LHS and thier stocks of metal wheels?
I’m guessing that the Walthers trucks and the P2K 33" wheel sets might not be good combinations together - at least on THIS particular gondola. I think purchasing the P2K trucks is at least worth a try. (I did notice that they were a dollar off regular price on the Walthers site.)
Thank you for your information. It was very good. I cross checked against the life like wheelsets. I learned there are several different trucks. The ones I am interested in are " 21253 50-Ton Spring Plankless Trucks w/ 33” Flat Back Wheel Sets"
I went ahead and ordered one pair as a trial. I have already decided long ago that the fleet will have metal wheelsets and the development regarding specifically the walthers cars is considered a new “Twist” (Pun not intended) on the wheel situation.
I have about 18 Walthers RTR and if I stagger my purchases of these trucks over 12 months I will probably be able to retrofit all of them at a rate not too hard on my budget. If I indeed find that these are indeed the solution to the current issue discussed in this thread, I may break down and joyfully buy 20 sets of the darn things at once =)
I had a similar problem a few years ago with Walthers container well cars. The center sill was so wide that the trucks would not swivel enough to go around even a 24 inch radius without the wheels rubbing on it. I don’t purchase anything made by Walthers any more – everything they make seems to have a major engineering problem that shouldn’t be.
Turn the car upside down and take a piece of curved snap track (also upside down lol) and run the wheels on it. I suspect you will see what the flange is rubbing against.
Dave Nelson
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