I just got my first 2 cars from Walthers. Have any of you guys put the grab irons on? My eyes arn’t the best anymore so I’d like a few suggestions on how to handle the little buggers.
Thanks and Merry Christmas
If they’re so hard to see, why bother?
I find I can cope with vision problems by using magnifying visors (a #4 and a #7 plus an additional loupe) and a small “stool” made of scrap wood whose top makes the work surface abour 8" higher than my bench top to prevent neck strain. Good workshop lighting plus a 100 watt bulb in a swing arm worklight clamped to a shelf over the bench helps a lot.
A varible speed motor tool with a flexible shaft is permanently suspended over the bench with a hook to hold up the working end when not in use. I always keep a number 80 drill in it. On its lowest setting, with a foot switch that also adds a bit of speed control, I can easily count the groves in the drill bit as it turns. That foot switch also allows me to get everything aligned then start the tool without having to put anything down. I use a straight pin to create a good starting indentation if the cast dimple is not distinct enough. This set up is excellent for starting holes and pilot holes. If the holes need to be enlarged, I use a hand pin vise or another motor tool rather than remove the #80 bit as it takes a bit of alighment to get it true whenever it is replaced.
Since I can still be very clumsy after many decades of practice, I use a jeweler’s apron. Mine is from Micro Mark but you could use any apron and velcro the bottom edge of the apron to the bottom of the front edge of your bench. It will catch little parts before they hit the floor and disappear forever.
Finally, with grab irons, lift rings, coupler lifts, and other similar small slippery stuff that likes to fly out of twezers, I first tie a short (4") piece of thread lightly around the item. It prevents it from flying any distance and makes it easier to spot on the bench.
If you have lens implants or your eyes are just naturally stiffening, by all means get “computer glasses” or “piano glasses”. They allow you to focus at arms length which is where we do m
Thanks for the suggestions. I’ve thought about going stymetowns route. I have a couple of pairs of magnifying visors and do use them.
Beowulf I’ll keep those hints of yours in mind. They are very good. Tying a thread to the parts is a great idea.
Paul,
I once got the tips of my tweezers buggered up with some Walther’s Goo. I didn’t clean them off too good, but when handling the small wire and grabs, I noticed the tweezers had quite a grip on the part. So now if the tool ever feels like it needs more grip, I’ll actually coat with the Goo or Pliobond. As far as the small parts, just lots of light and a magnifier. Add some patience and they may get done.
I started modelling again about 3 years ago, at the age of 57. Now, my hands are steadier and I can more confidently build models with little parts. (I’ve got a Jordan truck under construction on my bench now.) The practice I get from modelling and painting has actually improved my dexterity.
So, my advice is to keep it up. Get a few Jordans and take your time about building them. You’re right - the parts are so small that nobody can tell if you miss one or two, but eventually you’ll get the hang of it and you’ll get them all in there.
The brighter your workbench lighting is the better for seeing up close. With more light, your irises get smaller and give your eyes a greater depth of field. This is the same thing that happens with a camera.
Also, I must agree that practice makes “perfecter”. When I haven’t modeled for awhile, 2-56 screws look/act awfully tiny. Continued modeling makes it seem like the same screws are large and that 0-80 is now small.
Ed
What is the second car? I’ve only got the first one. Plus has anyone got the station that was supposed to be out in November yet?
In addition to what has been mentioed, I always go up 2 sizes than what is called for in drills, i.e. if #80 is called for, I use a #78. I don’t see the sense in trying to force a piece of wire into a too snug hole, when a slightly larger hole makes thing so much easier. Use a piece of .020 styrene as a spacer so all the grabs/handrails stand a uniform distance from the surface. The CA used to secure the parts will fill the hole and once the part is painted evrything is blended together.
The first car is the 52 seat coach the second is the 30 seat parlor car. I have the station but haven’t looked at the kit yet. I also got 2 addtional train sheds. I will have to connect the 3 sheds together to come near the prototypes length.