I just returned this afternoon from the Amherst Train Show in Springfield, MA, where I bought 3 Walther’s Heavyweight passenger cars. I put them on my 24" radius track (the innermost on my layout) to see if they would run properly. The outside of the box indicates they can be run successfully on a 24" radius track. Well, they seem to run okay (they didn’t derail on the curves) however, they tend to squeek a lot, just like the Bachmann Spectrum heavyweight car I have. The only thing I believe the 2 cars have in common is they both pick up electricity through the wheels and then the truck sideframe, in order to allow lights to run in the car. I wonder if the squeeking is caused by the axle point rubbing against the metal sideframe of the truck?
Anybody else have this problem and what if anything can be done to fix it?
I’m thinking that maybe some dry lubricant, like graphite powder, sprayed into the wheel journal could correct the problem. I wouldn’t expect the graphite would interfere with the electrical pick-up…would it?
Any and all input would be greatly appreciated. I spent $95.00 on 3 of these Walther’s cars and while they look great, I’d like to get rid of the squeeking.
I would think the graphite would stop the squeaking and still conduct electricity, but every time I hear the 1:1 cars here go around the station loop or hit the turnouts, they all squeal like stuck pigs. Don’t you want that accuracy[:)]? ,J.R.
The only thing I can think of is that may be one or more of the wheel set is not sitting properly in one of the trucks. I have a large fleet of passenger trains and this particular Con-Cor one I ha always loves to derail for no paarent reason and also love to squeek on conrners. It took me about 2 hours to try everything else and at the end, it was right in fron t of me all this time but I failed to diagonose it; one side of the wheel axel was just sitting outside truck frame and that’s enough to squeek and then derail on corners ven though when you roll the wheels, it seems to roll freely. Just my 2 cents.
I have encountered the same problem with a few of the Walthers pax cars and it was fixed with a little graphite lube. They also roll a heck of a lot better. I lube all of my Walthers cars before they even hit the rails. You will definately be satisfied with the results.
Lubricating the axle journals is a must on these cars. Although graphite will do the job, I try to keep it away from any parts that can allow it to transfer to wheel treads, hence railhead.
The truck journals are easier lubed w/ light oil that has a needle applicator. A drop is all that’s needed. I find it better to remove the trucks and oil each axle end. Spinning up of the wheels to work it in.
While your at it, check the truck for any twist/ uneven axle plane. I have had a few warped trucks that caused derailments. Hold the truck upside down and sight the axles for any twist.
While the trucks are off, this is a good time to paint/ weather the wheels, I like to use roof brown to weathered black for this.
It seems this may be a common problem on these Walthers cars. My Walthers passenger was one of my poorest rollers and had de-railment problems. I isolated the problem axle and noticed that one wheel side was not spinning on its wheel tip. Instead it spins about half way down the coned tip and had wore a clean spot there. I also noticed that while all my other metal wheel cars (other manufacturers) would easily roll 2 feet down a very slight grade, my Walthers would stop after only an inch or so.
Some attempted adjustments and some light oil did improve this situation but I’ll likely avoid these in the future.
As recommended by Cmarchand two years ago, I purchased a tube of Moly Magic (Molybdenum) at my hobby shop. Excellent stuff![8D][tup] It’s a black past that contains graphite. I squeezed a very tiny dab (about 1/8" long) directly into the journals on 8 Walthers Budd cars. Squealing was completely eliminated.
The advantage Moly has over other lubricants is that for modelers that wish to use the Walthers drop-in lighting kits the graphite will in good electrical conductivity from the wheels to the light bar.
Unlike powdered graphite, which can sprinkle down onto the rails, Moly stays inside of the journals.
A molybdenum lubricant probably has molybdenum di-sulphide, not sure exactly, but I don’t know of any that also contain graphite. It would seem to be redundant to contain the one type and to also incorporate graphite which is generally meant to be a dry lube. The whole point of a dry lube is to obviate the use of solvents, except for a fast-dissipating delivery one, in order to keep the area free of dust and other contaminants that might otherwise adhere to the medium.
Perhaps a knowledgeable reader would set me straight on this, since I could stand to learn something about it.
The instructions on the walthers Heavyweights indicate you do need to lube the trucks. Apparently no one does any lubing at the factory.
That is something I will have to get around to doing sometime soon with my heavyies if it was not so much for the drooling over the new Rapidos waiting to come home like a expectant father in a nursery.
[#ditto] All the Walthers passenger cars I purchase go straight to the “shop” to get Kadee couplers and an axle lubrication. I can almost just blow on my Super Chief consist to get it rolling.
Light oil on the axles will allow the car to roll easier. Moly grease used here is a fantastic lubricant and will last long after the oil has gone.
Years ago in a galaxy far away–Wrong story. As a Webelo leader “years ago”, There were so many attempts by fathers to make their kid’s Piewood Derby car run faster. Some used WD40, sewing machine oil, Sturmey Archer oil(3 speed bike good stuff), graphite, grease and moly grease.
The fastest cars were graphite, next were light oil, 3rd was no lube at all and last was any that used a grease. The thicker the grease the slower the car.
Take your pick for how you want those Walther’s to roll.
BTW my son’s car was burnished graphite on the nail/axle and aginst the body- he ran it in the finals but didn’t win.
I just picked up a Walthers Streamlined 64-seat Coach. One of the first things I noticed was the instruction sheet that came with it said the wheels/axles would need lubrication before use.
I used a few drops of plastic friendly oil on each axle/sideframe and put them on the track. One axle required a second application. After about 10 hours of running time, still no new squeaks.
The PROBLEM of ‘Squeaking’ wheels in WALTHERS’ PASSENGER CARS - such as ‘Budd’ - is caused by metal axles turning in metal journals for powering their clever ‘Passenger Car Lighting System’.
REMEDIES ARE 1. Oiling the journals (oil migrates) 2. Grease (stays) but impedes electrical flow 3. New 36" weelsets (voids lighting) 4. Graphite
OTHERS have suggested Molybdenum or combinations that pass electricity on this forum. They all should work.
MONDO: you complained about Walthers wheels ‘squeaking’ before on a previous posting - including the “$95” you spent. I’m not sure if it’s the ‘squeaking’ or the $95 that is bothering you (possibly both); however the REMEDY is easy.
I dip my axle points in Kadee’s Graphite @ $2.25 retail for a 30 yr supply. It also works woders on metal couplers.
Put a little Kadee graphite in a cup. Add alcohol. Stir with a toothpick. Apply a little with the same tooth pick to the axles. The alcohol evaporates quickly. Only way I know to get a very little graphite right where you want it and nowhere else, unless you can find some lock lubricant at the hardware store composed of graphite and alcohol. They used to sell it, but I haven’t looked in years.
So far, it’s worked out very well. The Walthers passenger car truck journals that I’ve applied this on have not made any more “squealing” noises and the rolling qualities are actually better. Unlike loose graphite powder, the Moly stays in place. Of course, there is the added benefit of electrical conductivity for lighting since graphite is present in this lubricant.
I’m impressed that such a tiny dab will do the job, so it appears that even if I buy 10 more Walthers passenger cars, this tube is more than enough and will likely be with me for a number of years.
Dielectric lubricant is actually an insulator, which is why it’s often used on spark plug boots and on distributors.
A graphite-based lubricant like Neolube (colloidal graphite in alcohol) would conduct electricity more effectively.
I’ve found that some Walthers axles need a few quick passes with a medium-grit sanding stick before putting the cars into service. You can get rid of the squeak permanently by replacing the metal axles with acetal plastic axles, as used on Kadee wheelsets, but as others have noted, plastic axles don’t conduct electricity.