I am finally moving from Collector to Modeler. I want to expand upon Steve Otte’s Dream 4’ x 8’ layout and use Walthers track. I cannot find any information on the radius of their turnouts. {Yes, my LHS call them (Walthers) direct and they did not know.} Nowhere in their packaging does it mention this. A #4 turnout with a straight section and curved one appears to be a 22" radius when you place an Atlas curve track on it. The double curved turnouts list the radii of each turn, but not the straight pieces. Also, since they do not make curved track, can I assume all turnouts are connected by flextrack?
His givens are 18” minimum radius curves and No. 5 turnouts. Judging by the amount of track on that plan, I don’t foresee anything larger than a No. 5 being feasible. Yes, assume flextrack, since his plan is merely a pencil drawing.
the Atlas Snap Switch was designed to replace the first section of an 18" readius curve. It has curved driverging. Most, if not all standard turnouts have straight divergin rails
I think it’s reasonable to assume that the Walthers’ specs will match the old Shinoharo design, because I used the Walthers-Shinoharo turnouts when I built my layout in 2017. I recently added a siding, and a Walthers No. 5 turnout seemed to match the old No.5s that I used.
If you have a 7’x16’ table, I’d say you have plenty of room for that track plan- nearly double the size! I’d suggest 30” minimum mainline radius curves and No. 6 turnouts, if you can swing it.
better do some checking how far you can reach across 7’ dependent on height. 3 1/2’ is probably sinificantly farther then most people can reach. I am 6’5" and could not do that without damaging scenery or knocking over trains at the edge. my rr is 48" above the floor and 32" is the maximum reach for me.
the blue, red and yellow segments represent the turnout where the red segment represents the 46.5" radius curved section, yellow. the corresponding straight section and the blue segments, straight sections extending from the points, diverging and non-diverging rails
the green curve is a constant 28" radius from the points
the orange is a 28" curve extended from the diverging rails after the 1" straight segment
the violet curve is a constant 46.5" radius curve from the points
I 100% agree in principle with the folded dog bone alternative, but it represents very complicated benchwork compared to the classic 4x8. You need hinged hatches in both of those loops. Otherwise, it’s at least a 4 foot reach, almost 5 feet in the back corner. That’s not counting all the framework for the irregular top pattern, which might be better built as an open structure with plywood roadbed. Again, that’s all very complicated for a beginner.
The other plan requires only a minimal rectangular structure to support a single 4x8 sheet, with 4-6 legs, and then he’s off and running with laying track.
Again, the folded dog bone is best for the long run, but unless the proper skills/experience are already present, an attempt could result in frustration and giving up before ever getting to run trains.
Interesting. I never even thought of the Collector aspect. Though, that is certainly a part of the hobby. It could be the aim for some, instead of the actual modeling. It’s something you don’t hear a lot about.
Well, it is not like Collector in the true sense of the definition. It is more like I bought a lot of stuff in anticipation of having a layout someday. Maybe borderline hoarding!