I am working on assembling a Walthers turntable #933-3203 to use with my walthers roundhouse. For somebody who has never built one of these structures before, I have to admit the instructions that came with it are a bit weak. Do I need to drill small holes in the bridge to wire the track? This seems the only logical solution but the instructions don’t say to do this. Also it says to solder the other end of the wire to the inside of the two slip rings and then put the slip rings on the intermediate disc. After I solder the wire, the slip rings don’t fit over the intermediate disc (and I didn’t use a lot of solder). My last problem is that there are at least 4 parts that I don’t see on the instuctions which are a few disc shaped items. What do I do with these? What do I do with the string included with the turntable? Can somebody please help me? Thanks, Dave
Hi Dave,
I have the Walthers TT and round house. I think that you can run the bridge rail wires between the ties on the bridge…if I remember right.
I can’t remember how I soldered the wires to the slip rings…maybe to the top and bottom edges? This is not much help is it? Anyway they went on OK.
The MAIN thing is to make a very good fit of the bridge and shaft to the TT pit hole. Try to make the bridge and shaft fit as smoothly as possible with not wobble or vertical slack. The main problem with this TT seems to be related to bridge wobble which causes a jerky motion which not only looks bad but makes it extremely difficult to align the tracks.
And as I recall there are some extra parts that don’t fit anywhere.
Here’s another recent thread with some comments on the Walthers TT:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21463
Thanks Jim. I really appreciate the help. I think I’ll try soldering the slip rings in the manner you described. It makes more sense.
I strongly agree with you on walthers instructions.I purchased the 90 degree turntable,and need far more illustrated instructions as well.If anyone has any suggestions on where i can get better instructions for assembly,I would greatly appreciate it.
You will have to drill a hole in the deck of the bridge in order to run wires up to the track. (One hole is enough.) They don’t say that in the instructions.
I had the same problem with the rings as you do. My solution : file down the “peg” to make room for the wire. The fit was so tight that I haven’t bothered to glue the rings in place as the instructions say.
The “extra” parts I think are used only if you intend to motorize the turntable. But I’m only guessing.
I believe the string is used to turn the turntable. I think you wrap it around the “peg”; then you pull on one end (or the other) to spin the turntable. At least, that’s the only use I can think for the string.
Walthers really dropped the ball when they wrote the instructions for this particular kit. Many parts aren’t numbered; and some (as you found) aren’t included in the instructions at all.
One set of wires it to run between the bridge rails, that you provide, and the brass slip rings. The other set is to be attached to the copper wipers that slide on the brass rings, and the power source (bus or feeders). Remember that you must use the right power source, and if you motorize the kit, use only DC for the motor, unless you plan to decoder it all. If you rotate the bridge so that the rails switch polarity as the loco enters the bridge or the roundhouse, you will need a DPDT.
Having read your discussion of this and given the issues with the Walthers kit, anyone else have any other turntable reccs?–e.g. what about the turntable kits from Custom Model Railroads? I’ve seen their ad in MR prev.
Jim
Hi Dave
The subject of Walthers turntables (the kit) comes up quite often. I built a Heljan TT which is basically the same kit. Saying the instructions are a bit weak is an understatment. It’s like International road signs. Pictures and little or no words.
I’m not sure what you mean by drilling holes in the bridge. Are you talking about the sides of the bridge?
What I did was solder wires to the rails and fed the wires through the bridge deck and through the hole in the center of the top bearing plate.
I’m using DCC so the polarity is switch by a MRC automatic reversing module. If you are using DC, then as selector has suggested, you have to wire a Double Pole Double Throw switch between the power supply and the terminal for the wipers.
Here is my reply to earlier threads on the same subject. Hope it helps. If not contact me via the e-mail link below and I’ll try to help.
Original thread started by tommyr on 2/20/06 Walthers 90’ Turntable (click on hi-lited words for link)
I built a Heljan TT which uses the same drive as the Walthers kit. I wanted to be able to remove my bridge, so I frabracated my own drive shaft and electrical pick up.
One very important step in the assembly is the lower bearing plate. I don’t know if the Walthers TT is built the same as the Heljan, but the bridge hight has to be just right. The trucks on the ends of the bridge should ride very lightly, most of the weight should be carried by the bearing. The Heljan kit has a lower bearing plate that glues into the center hole of the pit. That has to be positioned just right (I found that out too late and had to use a .010 shim from a generator pully on an old VW bug to raise the bearing). The bridge is attached to the upper bearing plate and my drive shaft is attached to that. The shaft has to be centered perfectly. I did that by slipping a brass tube thro