When I built my test 4x8, I used Liquid Nails for Foamboard. I weighted it with stacks of MR for 2 days, and then didn’t put any pressure on it (in a direction to break the bond) for a long time. It STILL didn’t adhere worth a darn. In fact the two 2x8 pieces of foam got reused on the 8x12 portion of the layout - the Liquid Nails came off cleanly! I won’t touch the stuff. I have an unopened tube - anyone want it? When I built the 8x12 I used Elmers Carpenter’s glue. That stuff set up in 24 hours, and I can lift the layout by pushing up on the foam in between the wood framework and the foam doesn’t come loose from the wood.
I wouldn’t take those books off for at LEAST a week. Gives you time to work on a track plan. [:D]
Just a note. I also used WS risers to elevate my track at a 2% grade. I used Aileens tacky glue to glue it down and glue the risers to inclines. It is available at Wal-Mart and is very inexpensive. It dried fast and seems to hold well so far.
I have seen a number of people on this and other forums recommend it.
I’m using Liquid Nails for PROJECTS, not Liquid Nails for FOAMBOARD. Randy, when yours didn’t adhere, did the stuff “come unglued” from both the foam and the wood, or did it stick to one and not the other? Also, I’m using 2-inch pink extruded foam, and pine benchwork. I’m curious about what the difference is. It sounds like the combination of foam, wood and adhesive is much more complicated than I thought.
Also, I spread mine on pretty thick, like I sometimes do when posting on this forum. [:o)] Did you use a thick or thin layer of LN for F?
Well the label says Liquid Nails for Projects and Foamboard. The other stuff has much higher petroleum distillate content and from all reports hsould not be used with foam.
I put it on with a good-size bead as recommended on the tube. It stuck to the wood real good, but barely to the foam. So I have a couple pieces of wood that i MIGHT be able to chisel the adhesive off, but it’s not worth the trouble. And two pieces of foam I reused - there were a couple of thick spots but I was able to knock those right off so the reused pieces of foam would sit flat on my new benchwork.
I know the MR construction articles recommend that PL something or other. But I’ve never seen that brand in the local stores.
The non foam-safe Liquid Nails was used for some aluminum trim around the outside of the house and it holds on just fine, sheet aluminum to wood.
Lets see… the approximate height of the benches is 42 inches from the hard tile floor. I’m 61 and getting more brittle by the day. Hmmm… 42 times the hypotenuse squared (my head) = ride in ambulance.
Nay, thanks anyway[8D]
Jarrell
Thanks Randy. I don’t have it here in front of me right now but it does say foam, in smaller letters, on the tube. Sorry to hear it didn’t stick!
Jarrell
Hmmm. I’ll have to remember this one. I had read that Liquid Nails was okay for most applications, but perhaps I mis-read the article. I may have to snitch my son’s Elmer’s for the next project…
The liquid nail dried overnight because of the open joists. Trapped glue between plywood and foam takes considerably longer. I have pulled apart foam scenery layers that were 2 weeks old, and some interior beads of glue scraped off with a putty knife. This is when I started to use ceramic tile cement spread w/ a notched trowel. The air trapped in the joint allows for drying and also makes a suction for initial tack and hold. This glue is cheap easy to use, also will work to bond plaster castings to foam, wood or to itself. If you still want to use liquid nail and want to speed drying, spread it out w/ a notched trowel works the same by trapping air.
Bob K.
Hmmm - my label says Liquid nails for Projects and (in little letters) Construction. No mention of foamboard, although it works for that. Contrary to the experience of my fellow Massachusettsian Mr. Knapp above, I couldn’t get this stuff to stick to my Hydrocal castings, even when I globbed it on with a gravy ladle worthy of the first Thanksgiving. For that job, thanks to another post on yet another topic, I’m using silicone, which is working just fine. (Ask again in 12 months after a year of climate.)
Boy, this has become a sticky subject. Some of us are set in our ways, and others are just coming completely unglued.
I’ve got a frame only, with the rafters made of 1x3’s, spaced at 16 inches. There is no plywood, so the foam is glued directly to the rafters. For the higher elevations, I built T-trestle supports from 1x2’s and then glued the foam to those.
MisterBeasley,
Try using the tile adhesive for those castings. I made no mention of Liquid Nail for that use.
Maybe the “origional” orange/red label would do the job.
Bob K.
I let the first section alone with weight on it for about 4 or 5 days and took the weights off today. It ‘seems’ to be ok. I used the Liquid Nails for Projects and (in smaller letters foamboard. I believe it said on the tube that it worked for insulation. By that, I think they meant foamboard insulation. I’ll leave this part alone about the same amount of time and then start laying track. Wish me luck!
Jarrell
I read, early on in my time with MR forums (a whole four muntz alreddy!!) that LN for P takes quite a bit longer to dry than, say, Ohio Sealants PL200 and PL300. Many of the ‘senior’ modelers here use plain old white glue or carpenter’s glue, but many also swear by silicone caulk.
I used PL300 in a warm, but relatively humid basement, and found it to be thoroughly set up in about five days. However, it no longer needed weights ,and was quite well bonded, in one day.
Jarrell, your basement or work area is probably humid. Also, if you use a lot of weights, your seal the area between the layers effectively, thus prolonging the drying time considerably. You might want to try leaving the weights off for several hours, not more than four or five, and then weighting the area for the next day or so. It might make a difference, assuming overall ambient humidity is not the real culprit.