I have a lake on my layout that covers probably 40 square feet and is about an inch deep. It does not make financial or practical sense to use “Magic Water” or “Woodland Scenics” water, so what should I use? What have you guys used and had success with on LARGE bodies of water. Pictures would be great too! Thanks.
I have two harbors on my 24’x24’ HO layout. I got the plastic random dimpled pattern used for translucent windows of offices. I painted the smooth backside murky blueish green This left the sparkle of the surface visible, and gave the illusion of depth to the harbors. The following pictures show small portions of each harbor, even though the plastic is only 3/16" thick! Clik on the photos to enlarge them, then click on “Previous” or “Next” tp see other views of my layout. Bob Hahn 
40 square feet? That’s larger than a 4x8. Really?
Mr. B,
I’ll have to agree, the lake is bigger than a lot of peoples layouts,4x8,is 32sq.ft…
Cheers,
Frank
It is not an inch deep. It is 1/8th" deep. You use colored paints to show depth. Light sandy by the shore, darker about an inch out, then green, finally black.
LION is going to model the Gowanus Canal. A black bottom will do just fine. A thin skim of some sort of water material will do it, maybe even tint that with something that looks oily.
You do not model the lake, you model the shore line. The material that you use for 'water" is only the last coat and is no more than that.
If your lake is already an inch deep you need to re-work things.
ROAR
Holy smokes batman that is a HUGE lake!
We need to see some photos of this?
I hope to see float planes and water skiers on a lake that big.
I think Doc Wayne is the guy to help you out with that much lake.
Gee my spare bedroom that my layout is in is smaller than that lake…I wonder if he meant 4 sq ft? Even then…that would be bigg-ish at about 1x4 or 2x2…
40 Sq ft sounds more like an ocean…I wonder…how big IS your layout?
LION has the right idea…you paint in the illusion of depth and skim coat it with your water media…
Even if you have a “1 inch deep crater”, you can still make banks to the lake on shore sides down to the water edge.
[8-|]
Color the bottom as described above and coat it with acrylic gloss medium or clear varnish. An old school approach that was used before that Magic or Enviro stuff was invented.
Also, Missouri Pacific BNSF, mind you, if you use something like Liquid water products, IE: Realistic Water, it should only go in in about 1/8 inch or LESS per application and allowed to dry thoroughly. You WOULD NOT put in a one inch deep layer{s} of the stuff!
Others have stated in other threads that too many layers never dries thoroughly.
And it collects dust.
The varnish idea is old school, but can work nicely,unless you want something like rapids, then there are water products to help wiht that. Though wads of clear drying glue can simulate rapids and if you cover with varnish, should not show as a “wad of clear drying glue”.
[8-|]
40 square feet! If it’s more or less oval you could float the SS. Edmund FitzGerald and not have it look cramped.
I’m afraid I’m not much help for lake ideas. All the water on my layout is in a mad rush to reach a lower level - the more or less placid (virtual) river in the aisleways.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Missouri Pacific BNSF,
I used a Minwax product - Polycrylic clear semi-gloss. It is water-based for super easy cleanup, the smell is not at all offensive, and it dries clear. I had a less than smooth surface to cover, after deciding not to use Realistic Water by Woodland Scenics when I couldn’t be certain the acrylic paint I had painted the harbor bottom wasn’t 100% acrylic per Woodland Scenics’ website. I used patching plaster to smooth the harbor bottom, painted shallow-to-deep effects, and used the Polycrylic. The surface wasn’t smooth, which I think worked in my favor, as actual water is usually not totally flat (I served in the Navy). I put down several dozen coats, just to smooth-out the surface a little.
The folks at my local Sherwin Williams store tried unsuccessfully to talk me out of using this stuff, as it is meant for furniture finishing. I thought it worked pretty good.
Wilton.
Wilton,
I think that looks gggggrrreat,very good job,and for the tip,also…
Cheers,
Frank
Missouri Pacific BNSF, we’re not trying to discourage you or be snarky with our replies, but it’s important to have a real idea of the size of the lake. For most of the pike-sized water we discuss, it’s fine to use high-end materials like Envirotex because you really don’t use that much. But, if you really have that big a lake, then something more economical would be recommended.
Zstripe,
Thanks for the compliment on my harbor, Frank. The directions on the Polycrylic can called for 3 coats, with sanding between each coat. Due to my changing my mind about which product to use, and the very uneven harbor bottom, I used a lot more (I think it’s my OCD side). The key of course is the feathering of the painted surface to give the illusion of changing depth. The decision to use a urathane-type product is the result of Doctorwayne’s excellent work that I have seen on previous posts - his water effects are the standard by which I measured my own efforts. In regards to Missouri Pacific BNSF’s design, I too am very interested in learning more about the expanse of water he intends, and how it will be completed.
Wilton.
I’d create a flat surface, like pouring in slightly soupy plaster into the lake area (if it isn’t already flat.) Then paint it black and let dry. When dry, add a little water over the surface and splotch in different shades of blue and maybe green. Let dry, then add a thin layer of Future floor polish, or maybe a thin pour of “Magic Water” or something similar. It doesn’t have to be deep, Paul Scoles in his new Carstens scenery book shows a river that looks very good with only 1/8" of resin. After that’s all dried, you can add ripples with acrylic gloss medium.
Wilton, thanks very much for your kind words, but I think that’s a great-looking water scene which you’ve created. [tup]
Missouri Pacific BNSF, regardless of the size of your water feature, the key to making it look realistic is in the painting you do before pouring the “water” You could pour any of the commercially-available water products until it was a foot deep, but it won’t look much like a river or lake if poured atop bare plywood or foam. Paint that plywood or foam in convincing colours, and a 1/8" coating of water product or even a clear brushed-on finish can make it look any depth you wish.
Here’s what I’ve done to represent an inlet of Lake Erie. I didn’t have a lot of room available, but I wanted it to look as if you could wade out for only a short distance before it would be over your head. I have a fish packing plant on the waterfront, and the fishing boats need water deep enough to reach the dock.
On my layout, this muddy river isn’t too far away from the first scene, but it’s actually meant to represent one several miles away. The water level is fairly high because of heavy rains father upstream, and it’s also pretty heavily-laden with silt:
Just beyond the bridge is the lake,
Wilton, I was ready to post about the Minwax product, but you did just fine ahead of me. It is an excellent product, and as you say is more for furniture and stained woodwork. It is my “stand-in” for a readilly available product when I am out of the comercial water base finsh that I use professionaly for stained moldings and woodwork. It does require at least 3-4 coats for it’s optimum fin
Doctorwayne,
Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for sharing your work with us. I was very hesitant to try a water scene, but after seeing what you had done and how convincing it looks, I had to give it a try. Looking at the remaining unfinished areas on my layout, I find myself thinking first of how I can incorporate water into these spots. The realism and additional variety benefits are just too good to pass up.
BOGP40,
That Minwax Polycrylic stuff is indeed an excellent product, I must agree. I really like the fact that it seems to bond to common paint so well. It opens up avenues of creativity for me.
Wilton.
ditto
i would do just what this person said…I’m in the middle of a build with a large river and very large harbor and I’m rethinking how deep I cut the waterways I have 2 of the really big bottles of magic water but not sure if it make it look more real, trying to do the fresh water section clear so you can see the bottom with rocks and sculptamold ttexture matthew