Water modeling alternatives...

Has anyone used acrylic polyurethane with success to model shallow water? The label says it dries crystal clear in about 24 hours.

I have not tried it for modeling water, but I have used it as an alternative varnish on wood. I think you would have to put on several coats or use a sealer on the “bed” so the polly doesn’t soaked in. Dust on the surface you’re coating and between coats would have to be avoided.
I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

The problem with polyurethane is that it yellows over time.

Any of the quality water based polyurethanes dry absolutely clear and will remain that way. This is desirable for finishing light stained and pickled stained pieces where any ambering from the finish will cause a mismatch in color. Minwax Polycrylic, my favorite but not easily found- Harco Hydrothane and other major brands work well for their intended purpose, but they only are recommended to be applied in many thin coats. Harco is the only product I use on my custom millwork, stained moldings and doors.
If this product is applied too thick or recoated too soon, it will not cure or level properly. Unless you want to lay 3-4 coats it will not work as you intend. Using acrylic gloss medium will produce far better results for modeling water. For any deeper pours, especially where you have sceniced the banks and bottom( rocks fallen trees and debris) Envirotex or Envirotex light 2 part resin will do the job.
Bob K.

Maybe I used the cheap junk.

If you can stand the smell, the best product for modeling water is liquid casting resin. The best part of using resin is that if heated ( while it’s curing), it will ripple the surface. An effect many find desirable. But again, let it be known that the smell put off by this stuff takes a long while to clear out. A less offensive material to use is a two part epoxy called Envirotex. Envirotex is sold in most arts and crafts stores. The only draw back with envirotex is that it cures perfectly flat. Many modelers use a high gloss matte medium over the cured epoxy to create waves and other rippled surface effects.

This water effect scene was created using Enivrotex. The wake and waves around the tugboat were built-up using a gloss medium. I colored the water by adding 2 drops of acrylic paint while mixing.

from what I understand Phillip the yellowing occurs only with the oil based poly, the acrylic(water based) will not yellow over time… Maybe Bob K can confirm.

(btw, fantastic shot Bob, one of the best water scenes I’ve seen)

Have fun & be safe
Karl.

UKGuy is correct. The oil base is the issue when it comes to yellowing.

Cool, now I know what to look for.

Ezielinski,
Here is an explanation of the way I did it, along with a photo. Hope it helps.
To make the water I covered the bottom of my river with polyfill and then sanded it smooth. I then painted it with acrylic paints, starting with a black towards the middle and then lightening with different shades of brown toward the edges. Then I kinda blended it all together until it looked right. After the paint was dry, I poured on a generous amount of gloss acrylic varnish. This stuff dries pretty fast but I helped it along with my wife’s old hairdryer(had to get her a new one, you know the story) I kept the hairdryer almost parallel to the water which causes the varni***o form ripples as it dries. By aiming the hairdryer the right way you can control the direction your water will flow. After everything is dry, a couple of thin coats of the varnish will make everything come to life.

Scott

babefluff,

I painted my lake blue in shades from dark to light with a brown transition. I then put rocks and such around the shore. Then I poured a generous amount of Minwax Gloss Acrylic Polyurethane (1/8 inch deep) two days ago, and it is still cloudy white and tacky. The humidity in my basement trainroom is 45% and the tempurature is 68 degrees. I’m nervous that it wont cure properly and it will stay cloudy. How long was your “pretty fast”?

Ezielinski,

With the use of the hair dryer it only took a few minutes. You have to be careful though, if you hold the hair dryer too close the varnish will dry too fast and “skim” over causing it to peel and and dry in strands. Hold the dryer at a 45 degree angle and keep it moving all the time. Hope that is clear as mud.

Scott