I have repainted my Bachmann 4-6-0, I only saved the number on the cab…
This was a test to see how different grades of gloss would work as a complement to regular weathering.
I also had a chance to apply the new custom decals I got from a friends contact in the US.
I´m quite happy with the overall result, and the decals with the Logo went on like a charm!
What do you think about it?
Looks pretty darn nice to me!!! I’d say you’re on the right “track” there!!!
Mark
Looks swell to me too! I wish I had one.
[8-|]
The photos look like a very shiny locomotive for weathering, nice loco.
A very nice and truly realistic-looking job in my opinion, Graffen, one that avoids the “over-the-top” application of filth, rust and grime hobbyists this side of the pond all too often seem to apply to their models.
CNJ831
Thanks for the comments!
Well, I didn´t want to make another loco that looks like it´s ready for the cutters. That´s the reason I made the different grades of gloss. Most pics of working steamers are actually quite shiny.
I got the explanation from a man that had worked with steamers in the 40´s and 50´s; that it was standard procedure to take oil on rags and rub the jacket and cabsides and tender. That would surely make the appearance quite shiny I think.
See this for example:
That was the inspiration for it.
Graffen,
I have never before seen this “used, but not abused” - look being captured so well!
[bow]
Looks like a well maintained used locomotive.
I have heard the same thing you mentioned, that the locomotive boilers were wiped down with oily cloths. Which would of course leave a bit of a sheen.
I really like the Spectrum 4-6-0’s, have a number of both the low boiler and high boiler models myself, they are the predominate engines on my layout. The movement of the valve gear is mesmerizing to say the least.
I paired a couple of the 4-6-0’s with sets of the 60’ Rivarossi coaches, they are a natural pairing.
i recently read an article by a man who worked for the B&O in Akron, OH in the 40’s as a teenager’s summer job. He washed down a Mike cab and tender with a long-handled brush, then rinsed it with a hose, used cotton waste to polish loco jackets with graphite until they shined, polished the bell and aluminum number plates and the round capitol dome logo with sandpaper, sprayed the smokebox front and sides, and the firebox sides with a mixture of oil, kerosene, and graphite, and the chassis were cleaned on a wash rack with industrial cleaning power mixed with steam, often from the loco itself. Sounds like they liked their engines shiny.
Thanks for the kudos, guys.
Yes, I think most of the steam locomotive weathering we do is a bit too much on the heavy side (I´m guilty as charged there too), that is why I try to find a way to weather the locomotives to an “enough” level that looks credible.
I have noticed that during the 40´s and early 50´s, the locomotives owned by the “bigger” companys was mostly well maintained. The low revenue narrow gauge RR´s on the other side…
The freight cars during that period was much dirtier than the locomotives; and way dirtier than the passenger cars!
Here is another pic of the 4-6-0 that shows a bit more of it:
I like the effect of light weathering over a well-maintained locomotive - most of the real ones which I remember didn’t look like they were on their last legs, even if they were near the end of their existence. Yours looks like a well-maintained loco that’s in-service but not on the verge of breaking down on the road. [tup]
I paint my steamers as almost new, with various shades of black slightly toned-down with the addition of other colours, then apply clear finishes ranging from a high gloss, to various semi-glosses, and matte finishes. For smokeboxes and fireboxes, I usually leave the paint un-coated. After that, weathering is applied to suit - I like mine well-kept but slightly weathered:
…while a friend for whom I paint prefers his with a just-out-of-the-shop look, with maybe a bit of dust from a first shake-down run:
Yet another friend wanted her loco heavily weathered, but I still started by painting it as a well-maintained piece of machinery:
…then added weathering in stages:
…until it was to her liking:
Wayne
Really nice locomotives there Wayne!
It´s good to see that I´m not fighting windmills alone here [swg].
Maybe the ones that say that they don´t like weathered equipment could be “persuaded” to rethink that now…[(-D]
Thank you for the kind words, Graffen. [:)]
I think that weathering is a fairly personalised aspect of our hobby, and there’s room for everything from unpainted brass locomotives to vandalised rust-buckets that should have been scrapped years ago. [(-D] None of these options is “right” or “wrong”, but I would hope that the option chosen by the models’ owner is right for them. I might look and think “Yech!!”, but my choices may be just as equally abhorrent to other viewers.
Many modellers are afraid to attempt weathering, but it’s one of those things that requires more action than talk. Chalk weathering is a good way to start, as it can be easily washed off if it doesn’t turn out well. Also, many people expect to get great results on their first attempt - it’s not impossible, but it helps to have some experience using the weathering medium and method of your choice. If you’ve never used an airbrush, it’s unreasonable to expect great results on your first attempt.
Also, don’t waste even a cheap model for your first weathering attempts. Use a piece of cardboard or even paper to get familiar with the tools and the methods. Paint it with a suitable colour, then try different methods, or different colours for weathering. Try combinations of materials and techniques, and try layering different effects. Even the order of application can affect the appearance of the finished product. Study your prototype - it’s easier to copy from a good photograph than it is to make it up as you go.
Finally, remember to stop before you’ve gone too far. Sounds silly, but you’ll understand when you start weathering. [swg]
Once you’ve got some practice under your belt, go ahead and put it to use on one of your models. If you’ve come this far, you’ll find that most weathering disasters are salvageable, even if it requires a complete re-painting and re-lettering
Just perusing 4 highly detailed photos of some C.P.R. locos taken by professional steam locomotive photographers, these locos were obviously to be photographed and were washed and cleaned, the results are"clean" but showing definite signs of use, alkali water stains, steam stains, discolourization of paint, all had distinct weathering on the smoke box , rust I assume on the firebox, tender wheels a bit dirty or stained, steps to the cab well worn, and other indicators this loco was actually used, the only time you will see an immaculate locomotive is in builders official photographs and if they were not to be photographed, you can bet they were never prettied and painted up as in official photos.
17 minutes after the locomotive left the factory you will see visible indicators that it is an actual steam locomotive, regardlees how crews cleaned their locomotives it would take 3 days to put it back to pristine condition, you may feel I’m a 100% fan of weathering and very much against “over-weathering” and I tended to over do it at first, but now moderation is the key.
Face it, steam locomotives were(are) not the cleanest operating devices known to man.
