weathered and scuffed up

Hi All,

Here are some P2K kits in HO scale I just finished building and weathering.

Great job! Looks like the NKP needs to go back into the paint shop. What do you use to weather?

Bob

Those look great!

I would not refuse those in any of my consists!!! Nice job!!

Please put them in “Weekend Photo Fun” -Just a thought…

Very nicely done, reminds me of the Proviso Yards just outside Chicago, C & NW, just need some,.Graffiti to set the Location [Y]

Nice job. Some good Graffiti would top it off. IMO nothing looks natural without.

Mike

Can you explane how you did it?

Mike

Actually no. These cars fit in the late 1950s-70s time period. Freight trains were, thankfully, generally graffiti free.

Even in the early 80s the majority of freight cars had not been “spray can bombed” yet. I miss those times.[sigh]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRXcCwvn4ZM&feature=related

I can only go by what I see in the photos, but let me tell you something about railroading. I worked summers in the late 50’s as an extra board car clerk for the Santa Fe down in Oklahoma while going to college. I can tell you that when a car number was unreadable, the car was tagged and pulled from service. It is difficult to check waybills/switch lists against cars that have the number so badly mutilated that it is unreadable. Your weathering techniques are good, but you have to give some thought to the information on the car side and its importance to car routing.

Bob

Didn’t the RR sometimes just stencil the correct numbers until a time they could get it to the paint shop? Then again with clear readable stencils why take it to the shop. Save that money, keep that car making revenue. [:D]

Try sanding some of the herald off with ultra fine (wet) sandpaper, then put some daubs of white water based paint on the markings and pulling them down with a fine brush for streaks of white wash.

I like to spray with dull coat, then later I may spray with 90% alcohol … this technique will really fade the finish but if it is too much, another coat of dullcote will even out the fade. The rust comes next, an oil wash, I use two tones of flat brown or orange… this can spread around on it’s own or be pulled down like the white wash. I often stipple some flat black randomly on the surface I want to rust, and these dark spots remain visible under the oil washes. I will load a brush with black or red oxide tempura powder and tap some on the wet finish from above, like knocking the ash of a cigarette. THAT takes practice and not much powder. This technique is how I achieve some texture.

Somewhere in there I like to use some of my wife’s cheap powdered makeup, (it comes with a nice soft brush) and “dust” trucks, doors, ladders, the lower half. This highlights the car nicely. I might seal all that with one more coat of dullcote.

you have done some good work there. you should be proud of it. over the years, i encountered a lot of cars that had the reporting marks almost obliterated. some were so bad, i had to go back down to the end of the car and try to read the number stencilled there.

i too, came from an era before the vandalism of graffiti had started running wild so i don’t model it myself. about all we ever saw back in those times were anatomically correct goats on the great northern cars.

pfe ice reefers were often filthy and the numbers were sometimes wiped off enough to be legible while the rest of the car was a mess.

worst offenders were probably gondolas and hoppers. if the hoppers were loaded with coke that was still hot, it cooked the paint off and the gons suffered the same fate from being loaded with hot steel.

one used to see the car number enhanced with white chalk from time to time. the car knockers would do this if the number was real bad. they used to carry chalk to mark cars to show they had been inspected and oiled. the chalk was gone with the first hard rain.

occasionally a car would be shopped for re-stencilling but only if it was empty. loads were not delayed for such a trivial repair.

grizlump

I have been wondering, WHAT THE HECK IS P2K??? [8D] I cant find it anywhere![(-D]

I have been wondering, WHAT THE HECK IS P2K??? [8D] I cant find it anywhere![(-D]

Sorry for the double post, got carried away…[(-D]

It’s cool UPTeen. A lot of us double-post by accident.

I’ll oversimplify here. P2K refers to “Proto 2000”. Others might chime in with more details. (There is also a P1K, or Proto 1000 line).

Originally this line of production scale railroad models was owned by LifeLike, now by Walthers following it’s purchase of Life Like.

The Proto 2000 and Proto 1000 lines were a big step up from the toy train offerings that LL produced for decades. These were much more detailed, smoother running models of rolling stock and locomotives and some scenery items as well. You can find Proto 2000 offerings at www.walthers.com and there are plenty of P2K and P1K locomotives and rolling stock on ebay. Take a look for yourself.

IMHO, one of the best P1K units produced were the Budd RDCs. NIce looking, smooth runners. No longer produced, but plenty show up on ebay, often at reasonable prices.

High Greens [8D]

LOL

P2K = Walthers Proto 2000

Thats wat i thought but i wasnt sure. Thaankz![(-D]