Wasn’t quite sure how to weather this guy so gave him the old rusty-as-heck treatment. I’m pretty new at this so any tips on what you like and what you think could have been done better would be great! Thanks!
Two general rules of thumb:
- Always shy on the side of under-weathering rather than over-weathering - Some weathering can be as subtle as a light coating or dirt or grime on the side and in corners. You can then build on that…or not.
- When possible, work from pictures of the prototype - This will give you good ideas as to what parts of rolling stock, cars, and structures tended to get dirty, decay, wear out, or rust the quickest. There are a number of sites around the Internet that have pictures that you can glean ideas and information from.
Tom
Try to avoid over-weathering. Lightly weathered or slightly heavier than light weathering can be pleasing to look at but a heavily weathered car looks like it’s next stop is probably the scrap line. I have some heavily weathered cars of my own but they’re not going to be used for anything other than being parked on an overgrown siding or old veterans breathing their last gasp on the MoW roster.
I love it ! but maybe a little too much read the first reply he is very right . go by his advice . I do the same thing practice is the only way .rambo1… like i said I tend too over weather also but I also like it and do you?
Its your car .rambo1…
what do you think?
they end up like that!
again read the first reply
I personally like it, I prefer my rolling stock not to look plastic/new…I want them to look like they’ve been out in the elements for years. Being an old Seaboard Hopper, I thought its been out there for 30+ years, rust happens!
Rust doesn’t just “happen.” A painted surface will resist rusting for a very long time. There’s a handful of B&O covered hoppers out there, still sporting Capitol domes on them. Those cars are hailing from the 60s and they’re in remarkable shape.
My artistic skill at weathering is…non-existent. That said, I am capable of applying an analytic eye to observations of actual railcars and drawing conclusions from them.
The most important thing to look at and consider is the environment the car or locomotive lives in. Railcars that live in the SW fade and peel in a very different way than the equipment that sees much of its live in the NE. ATSF locomotives bleached pink over time.
The second is what the car is actually loaded with. The type of coal a hopper carries impacts what color it turns. Different materials stain tank cars differently.
The third is what type of damage and abuse they see over their lives.
My observations indicate, to me, that covered hopper see little damage to their sides. Rust is more likely in the upper portion of the car, above any horizontal panel line or weld line above the car’s side. Spilled material can gather here and abrade the paint. On the car body, raised ribs and raised weld lines also receive damage from the ravages of rain and wind, flying debris, bumping against close clearances, etc.
Look at these two links, they were the most heavily weathered SBD covered hoppers I found quickly:
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=722617
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=722596
The side of the car’s are rusty themselves, for the most part. They’re stained by iron oxide being carried down from rusted areas on the top of th
It’s your railroad. rambo1…I still love it1
Well since you asked, I hope you used acrylic paints so you can wash it off and start over. You need to do subtle washes of rust and grime. Don’t forget how much dirt and grime gets washed up from the wheels on to the hopper bays and underside. There are excellent examples of weathered hoppers including one like yours on rrline forums. It has some tutorial with it. Less is always better.
It’s your railroad is a cop out ,period…mh
Way heavy.
No discernable pattern, no discernable direction. Look like you smeared brown paint on the car.
Instead of using a rag, use a brush to drag the coloing down the car side in streaks. Rust happens in patches then bleeds down the car sides. I don’t see the patches
We won’t even go into the fact that its a plastic pellet car (look at the outlets) so is the wrong type for the CSX. Those cars tend to be very clean.
I agree. Use prototype photos wherever possible and try to coordinate the colors and patterns of weathering accordingly. The car looks like a typical beginner project - very heavy and looks like paint as opposed to rust or grime. It helps to practice on things other than cars like scraps of styrene until you get a feel for how paint and various application methods behave. It’s normal to mess up a few cars until you’re used to the process.
I have to agree: in most cases, good weathering is an example of the adage “less is more”. On first attempts, many of us learn that we were wrong in thinking that “it just needs a little more…”. [swg]
As others have mentioned, check prototype photos to see how real cars weather: the areas which rust and the patterns which result. Note, too, the way that rain distributes the dirt that collects on the car, and the patterns caused by wheel spray, both from the car and from the ones that have been coupled to it.
Some cars are weathered by the commodities which they carry and others are less-weathered for the same reason.
These suggestions aside, I commend you on your first attempt, as it’s usually the most difficult step to take in learning how to weather. Your subsequent attempts will give you ample opportunities to improve.
Wayne
It’s always good, as mentioned above, to practice on pieces of styrene. Then, you can “graduate” to a car that you don’t care if you mess up. lately, I have found, from a MR article some time ago that water colors, the kind for kids in paint by number, work well too. I’ve been using the water colors on a few cars and I like the look. One thing you must do, however, is use a small amount of dish detergent with them so that the paint will spread and not bead on the plastic surface. Best thing is, if you don’t like the look, take a damp cloth or paper towel and wipe it off. If you do like the look, you can seal it with a matte finish, such as Testors Dullcote. Weathering powders, such as those from Bragdon work well too, and they can compliment the water colors. I personally haven’t done much weathering of freight cars, as I’ve been devoting most of my time either scratchbuilding or kit bashing the major structures for my layout, but just as a departure I’ve done some of this weathering. Also, as mentioned above - - what does the prototype look like?
ONE word for weathering: m o d e r a t i o n - - - sure there are cars that look like they should be heading for the scrap yard but is it a little TOO much?
When your just starting out, like you state you are, I recommend that you use pastel chalks. Chalks are a great way to learn the process involved in weathering and the best thing about it is a Little soap and water and you can remove what you do not like. Chalks are easy to control. I use an old brush that I have shortened the bristles on, to around 1/8 of an inch or so. Use rust, black, dirt and dusty colors. If you get the weathering to a level that you like, you can affix the weathering by spraying the car with Testers Dull Coat. Keep in mind that the Dull Coat will tend to reduce the weathering affects. Chalks are the best way for beginners to test their legs in the weathering art.
Having been doing weathering for a long time, I have settled on using acrylic paints. I use washes of paint and may build up several coats of different colors to get the effects I’m looking for and again as long as the paint hasn’t dried, mistakes can be washed away with soapy water. What’s nice about acrylics is that when dry, no other process is needed to affix the weathering.
What’s too heavy, is in the eye of the beholder. Freight cars get pretty dirty and the only washing they really ever get, is from Mom Nature. I would have to say that I might weather heavier than many people might think good! However, it’s my railroad and I run it the way I want!
Good luck, keep on practicing and above all, have fun!
The reporting marks and other essential information have to be readable. These areas will be cleaned/repainted even if the rest of the car is a mess.
I agree that most of your cars should be lightly weathered.
Good luck
Paul
There have been great articles on weathering in many issues of Model Railroader. Just this past April issue talks about weathering freight cars The author talks about using several techniques and mediums in his process of weathering. He also mentions using real cars as examples to work from.
Practice Practice Practice!!!
This is my first attempt, about mid 90’s i did this & didn’t start again until last year.
A few others since I started again.
As others have stated, look to the prototype for examples. I’ve been using a water based paint so if i make a mistake, I can correct it easily.
Gordon
You have already got some great advice for weathering, Chalks/ pastels or better yet weathering powders ( like Braegdon- adhesive properties), are great for starters, Do note that most factory finishes are a bit too slick for pastels and even weathering powders to grab onto. Start by coating w/ a flat finish either using Dullcoat or an acrylic flat. This will allow some “tooth” for the powders to grab. The Braegdon weathering “kit” will come with a dozen or so colors. I like to use a base color close/ lighter to the factory first. This knocks down the “pristine” toylike look and will fade out the finish and the lettering. Then other colors as grime, dirt, rust can be added to suit. Small somewhat stiff brushes, small bits of foam and those makeup brushes/ funny foam applicators work wonders for applying the powders. Even a swipe w/ a finger down the panel sides works. These will wash/ scrub off if you don’t like the results. Recoating w/ dullcoats will hide much of the work, I really don’t need to clear my weathered pieces as they will not get “manhandled”.
Generally I will do most of my weathering in several stages of airbrushing, drybrushing and dusting w/ powders (and not in any specific order). Everyone will develop their own techniques as you learn. Just start out light as most above have mentioned.
PS Gordon, real nice work
Gordon, I love the yellow box car! Very nice work! While this may be heavier weathering than most of the rolling stock on my railroad, a few of my cars are fairly close to this amount. In my opinion freight cars are not uniformly weathered to a specific degree; but, vary by large percentages! To have all of them light; or, heavy isn’t very realistic. Of course, this is just my opinion!