Weathering, gone bad!

I was attempting to weather a boxcar tonite, and started by streaking a light gray/grimy black mix for the effect of water stains down the sides, as well as the ribs on the boxcar doors… after a few minutes, I cleaned the brush, and took the wet brush and went over the streaks, to soften and lighten their appearance, but aparently, I dipped into my bottle of Isopropyl, rather than the bottle of Thinner, which caused the paint pigments within the bristles of the brush to congeal… When I was dragging the brush on the boxcar, little “boogers” of pigment made their way out onto the boxcar surface, as well as separating the paint that was just applied. I soaked the residue out of the brush with a paper towel, then attempted to clean the brush in thinner, then tried to removed the weathering mistake on the boxcar, and had no affect. The original boxcar paint had become soft, and these little “boogers” were not going anywhere. Help? (sorry no pics)

Jeremy

Let it dry, sand smooth (a few gentle swipes with 600 grit or higher), paint or stain as seems appropriate.

Give it plenty of time for the alcohol to evaporate. (mabye several days)

Then sand and paint as stated above.

Dont panic and dont be in a hurry.

Peter

OUCH! You’re not alone, I’ve done that myself. Just follow the advice given above and you’ll be alright.

Thanks! That’s really good advice. I should stick to using one type of paint (water based/solvent based) to avoid making this type of mistake again! [banghead]

Sometimes, the best weathering effects are caused when you “unweather” something. Some of my best weathering effects were created by undoing something I thought was bad. Therefore, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Who knows, that boxcar might come out better than you expect.

Let the car dry then work with the boogers. I have seen many a prototype car with boogers on them, don’t worry about it, scale it down if necessary then just go with it. Many prototype freight cars are just held together with rust and boogers anyway.

And duct tape. Always duct tape.

Just graffiti over it, and no one will notice.

(Does it seem that graffiti always seem to be bright and shiny, or is it just me?)

Chuck

Well, I haven’t gotten as far as graffiti, but after tooth-brushing the “boogers” and repainting the boxcar doors altogether, here is the weathering result… My first weathering job; not-so-bad after all!

Jeremy

very very nice imo.looks like a few of my cars… minus the boogers of course.terry,

how do you do grafiti . plus i need some tips for rust or dirt on my railroad stock. [4:-)]

[xx(][swg][banghead][oX)]

weetle…really don’t know but i think their are decal’s and or rub on dry transfer’s.might be wrong however.might do a search on this forum for weathering rolling stock and something might come up.also do a google search on weathering ho scale freight cars.hobby shops have books on this subject also.terry…

Couldn’t agree more. A long time ago, I read an MR article by Mike Tylick and he said you have to learn to keep the lucky accidents. I’ve kept that in mind ever since reading it. He was writing about scenery but the same would apply to weathering a freight car. Many times, the effect you end up with is better than the one you intended. The good thing about weathering is if it doesn’t come out right the first time, you can always add or remove a layer until it does look right. If you can’t remove what you’ve done, add another layer over it. You’ll be surprised how many times weathering can cover up a mistake.

i need some help im new to weathering. i was going to redo some weathering tonite. should i stick to pastels or should i go to paint?