In order to get Bragdon powders (or others) to stick to a metal Kadee coupler, I lightly brush on a bit of Model Master acrylic flat clear to it first. I let it dry, and then apply the powders. It is effective, but it then causes the coupler to become a bit ‘sticky’. It appears to never work as good as a brand new one.
What method do you use to get powders to stick to these couplers without causing the problem?
I don’t weather my Kadees. It’s more important to have optimum coupling and uncoupling. If I was to weather them , it would be lighly, and not anywhere that they contact each other. Dan
I still regard myself as an amateur when it comes to weathering in general, and have never used powders.
However, I either “dry brush” the couplers with acrylics, or use a very cheap rattle can of acrylic enamel, giving the bottom of the car and couplers a “quick flick.” The sides of the car may get more “quick flicks” depending on how dirty I think a particular car should be.
With either method, I use a light touch as too much paint applied in the wrong place on the coupler will gum up the works, which I believe has happened in your case Your couplers will probably require some work to get them freely operating correctly.
And remember, it requires practice to become perfect; and you can be rest assured that I am far from that place!!
Cheers, the Bear.[:)]
Hello Iawestern[:D]
Please forgive the following __detour i__n my answer.
A very simple approach that I’ve found to have trouble-free results with couplers is the use of acrylic based weathering washes. I learned about this approach in an MRR Magazine article issue (early 2000’s?).
Using discarded clear plastic pill trays or egg cartons, pour the desired paint color into the pocket and thin it 75% to 90% with distilled water. Stir it with a paddle or toothpick. Take a clean hobby or artist paint brush (I use Taklon) and apply the wash in vertical strokes, top to bottom. You’ll see results when the wash dries in about a minute! If you go overboard, no problem, just wash it off with water or alcohol and redo. Below is a photo of a diaphram striker plate and a KD coupler that I “washed”. Cool factor is that the paint layer is so thin that it does not interfere with the mechanical movement of the knuckle.
In some cases to make couplers look “newer” I apply just 1 or 2 wash coats instead of the 3 or 4 that I did to this coupler. In a nutshell, the coupler operates with no stickiness or hangups. I still have Polyscale paint products that are in good condition, but any model acrylic paint will work with this approach.
I now “wash” the couplers, trucks, and frames of my freight cars, passenger cars, and locomotives in varying degrees. For me, it’s fun and relaxing.
Again, my apologies if this is not helpful, but just wanted to point out a simple option.
I don’t weather my Kadee couplers. The factory finish looks good as is on my cars. And I fear that putting anything, paint, weathering powder, anything, will gum up the action of the couplers.
I either dry brush or use an airbrush. An airbrush doesn’t gum up the works if it’s set to shoot a small amount of paint.
I don’t weather my kadee couplers.
-bmtrainmaster
Here is a zoomed in shot of the same car’s end.
Weathering paint wash is very thin (you can see the black showing through). Coupler works flawlessly with no interference from the paint wash.
I like the way the coupler stands out. Although I paint primarily with airbrushes, I noticed that (for me) a thin taklon or sable paint brush is much easier to control for weathring such a small surface. When finished, I wet the brush tip with clean water, then wipe it in one direction with a clean cloth. ,
For those that might like to try this, mix and apply 1 to 2 coats of wash. Let it dry, and test its coupling action with other cars / locomotives. [;)]
High Greens 