I am looking at weathering techniques (for rolling stock/motive power as well as structures, etc.). There seems to be quite a mixed opinion as to which method is best. I have very little experience at weathering and I just want to get a consensus on what is best, what is easiest and what is the cheapest. Some of the methods I have read about and talked about are airbrushing, chalks and washes (diluted paints). Also a little about how these are done, especially with chalks. Can chalks be sprayed over with dullcote or a matte? I just want to know what you all would perfer on this.
I would rather get some suggestions from some pros out there who have done this for awhile before messing up some otherwise fine looking locos, rolling stock or structures.
I’m sure that you will get a boat load of replies here on everyone’s favorite techniques. I would start with some freight cars first before you do any engines. Generally modelers prefer airbrush weathering on engines with a few exceptions such as this list’s long time member Aggro Jones.
I have used most of the methods that you have mentioned and I would recommend that you try Bragdon’s or one of the other prepared weathering chalks as a first attempt. They have an adhesive in them which makes them preferable to chalk that you make yourself from the pastels or chalk sticks at the art store.
To apply the chalks I get paper box lids and apply the chalk to the car over the lid to catch the extra chalk. You can reuse the excess and the stuff ain’t cheap. I apply liberally with a soft brush and then work the chalk until it looks right. The beauty of this stuff is that it washes off with water if you don’t like the results.
As for dullcoat or spray matte over the top of these, yes you can (some spray before to give the surface better adhesion or “tooth”). Most oversprays make the chalk almost disappear but they are a good way to build layers. I rarely spray any of my chalk weathered cars or buildings and they hold up just fine. You can smudge the chalk of the cars by too much handling, I try to not touch stock once it is on the layout and then pick it up by the roof edges or other spots of minimal impact on the weathering job.
Weathering is a skill. Every good modeler I know has a few “dogs” somewhere on the layout. It happens and don’t worry too much about it. As you learn more, you can go back and fix the ones that didn’t come out exactly right. One key concept is that you can always add more weathering later if there doesn’t appear to be enough. Railroads seldom ran complete consists of “rolling wrecks”.
I would suggest that you methodically try all the methods out there. I use lots of different weathering techniques according
Here’s a place to get some great info. Chalks are cheap and EZ. You should start with a dull coat base. You can spray dull coat over them, but it takes a lot of the effect away. You need to go pretty heavy with the chaulk for it to look good after dull coating. A lot of folks use special self adhearing weathering powders such as Bragdon Ent. sells. These work much better than plain pastel chaulks. http://www.bragdonent.com/weather.htm
Weathering is an art form. It takes practice more than instruction.
I have seen great work from all the meathods and I have personally messed up most of them.Aggro does rust better than anyone, and used his own little tricks.
If you decide to learn the art, post the pics because we are encouraged by others.
This is a hobby (weathering) that it will take some practice and patience. I suggest getting some bragdon powders. I use them and I enjoy them. Also you might wanna wear some rubber gloves to. No finger prints and you won’t get the powder on your hands. Use Windsor Newtons oil paints. They are very good for rust and washs. Also get all kinds and shapes of brushes. For rust, paints, graffiti (if thats what you choose). I do my weathering by hand, and only use the airbrush for dullcote. Don’t get upset if they don’t look like you want. I have my days, well CARS that look good and bad. Look at some photos to get some ideas as well.
Just practice and practice is your best option. You will see a improvement.
Tom, I hate to sound redundant, but I also agree that Bragdon’s are the best way to start. They are extremely easy to work with and because of the adhesive already mixed in, you don’t have to go down the road of spraying your models. They are definitely worth checking out. All you need is an old, or cheap paint brush with the bristles trimmed down. Good Luck.
Thanks, everyone, for these suggestions; sounds like the Bragdons chalks are the preferred way here. I will see if the LHS has some of these; if not, I will order directly from Bragdons on their website.
I use airbrush, Bragdon “powders”, gouache, wet, dry and wash brush, and rubbing alcohol. They all work together or separate, practice makes perfect, take your time have fun and don’t be afraid to mess something up. Since you mention Chalks, and everyone seems to have suggested Bragdon (which is NOT chalk; read their web site) can be found here:
Powdered charcoal (from an art supply store) is a great overall weathering tool, especially for steam era modellers. I put it on with a brush fairly heavy over the entire model, then remove a lot of it with a paper towel wrapped around a finger, lightly dragged down along the model. That way everything has a little patina on it, colors get muted a little (the white lettering on a boxcar turns a light gray) and the charcoal stays in the little cracks and crevices like between boards of a woodsided car, or around the rivets of a steel car. But the writing on the model is still legible, everything is just toned down a bit.
Unlike chalks, which tend to dissolve when sprayed with flat finish, the charcoal stays put…and until you seal it in, it’s 100% reversable, unlike paint washes. After sealing it in, I sometimes go back and add a few highlights (rusty red or gray around the trucks etc.) with chalks.
HI I have recently posted some “basic weathering” clinics on youtube http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=Peterraev One clinic on Coalporters, and a video on grainhoppers, you can use the that tecnique on most cars.