Just an experiment with some black leather dye and alcohol.
Before.
After.
Color looks good. It seems that when too much is applied, the scale is lost and it doesn’t look quite perfect, like above the letter N. I have not tried this technique, but when I get on my next weathering kick, I will sure have some great ideas to work with.
I assume this fits my slogan that one learns more from expermentation than education. Thanks again for sharing.
Effective !
What does the alcohol do for the dye ?
Looks great!
Looks good. Are you going to put a dulcoat on? It has a little to much shine.
The alcohol acts as the carrier for the dye. I mix one part dye to 9 parts alcohol. I spary it on to the model then simply wait for the alcohol to evaporate, the dye dries a short time later.
I don’t use Dull-Cote for the simple reason that I can’t find it anywhere around here. I will however spray it with Matte-Finish. It has the same effect and dries faster than Dull-Cote. It also costs less.
Yipes! The taggers have struck! Is nothing sacred!
Now That’s Interesting !!!
Pretty cool !
DANG KIDS!!!
Jeffrey-
Have you tested your dye/alcohol wash over various types of paints to see how they will react (or, preferably, not react)?
So far it hasn’t reacted with any paint/finish it’s come in contact with. This includes Testor’s enamel and acrylic paints as well as Badger paints. It’s only Kiwi black leather dye and 70% rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl).
Those clouds don’t look real, you might want to try using a white shoe polish on a neutral background for a better result. Rubbing alcohol of course reacts with all paints, it’s not a good thing to use. Why you say it doesn’t, I can’t imagine. Perhaps, you didn’t actually try it. Some advice, look at the base of all products. Water based produsts don’t mix with oil based ones. Just a tip. Testor’s enamel is oil based, it’s not going to work for you.
Some advice, you can’t use oil based paint on paper or cardboard backgrounds either. That might be your problem, Scott, I mean Jeff, sorry. I get confused by your different user names, sorry.
Anyway, I tried registering at your forum, but it’s closed. But, keep trying, one day, you’ll finish your layout and I wish you good luck, Scott Reneau, oops, Jeffrey Wimberly. I do apologize that I’m confused, but stay cool.
Keep away from oil based paint, in the meantime. It doesn’t work.
70% rubbing alcohol isn’t going to effect the paint to any significant degree. The model can sit in it all day and not be harmed by it. 90% on the other hand has a very significant effect on the paint. It will strip it. As for acrylic and enamel not mixing, who said anything about mixing them? As for painting over enamel with acrylic or vise versa, I do it all the time, just not while the other is still wet. As for the clouds not looking real, there are a lot of people here who will disagree with you on that one. As for being confused about screen names? Mine is clearly posted here.
unless you’ve seen every cloud that has ever been in the sky, you can’t say the clouds don’t look real. I will also have to dissagree that you shouldn’t use oil based paint on paper or cardboard. Oil is best on paper products. The water in water based paints will be absorbed & cause the paper or cardboard to expand & when it dries will have noticable wrinkles. for that same reason you should use solvent based adhesives on paper products. You can get away with it in a small area. Don’t try to glue a paper backdrop with water based glue. Jerry
My backdrop is made of poster paper and was painted with water-based flat latex. I put on in two thin coats, the second coat going on after the first coat had dried. The poster paper sheets are joined to each other with Elmer’s white glue (water-based) and they are secured to the wall with the same glue. Where are the warps and wrinkles? There are none. Why? Because I didn’t put any of the water based materails on heavily. The paint and glue were used sparingly. If you don’t believe that, come here and I’ll put one together right in front of you. Water based paints and glues CAN be used on paper products without warping and/or wrinkling.
Whatever you did looks good to me
I think the clouds look real
I haven’t had the courage to attempt any on my layout yet
so for now it’s just a blue sky day
Constructive critisism seems to make people tense, so here’s mine!:
Everything looks great! Weathering jobs that are achieved by experimenting are awsome. The clouds look real and nice, but here’s a question: What kind of camera are you using? I don’t know what it is, this is strictly opinionated: it always seems your pictures are a bit soft and the lighting isn’t always the best. Just wondering, it still works, but that question has been one I’ve always wanted to ask. Again, it looks great!
-beegle55
Clouds look great to me. Actually they look real. Where did you get the graffite decal? I can only find the small ones.
The camera is a cheap ($50) Pentak PenCam that I picked up at Wal-Mart around 6 years ago. It’s a three function device (Digital camera, webcam and video recorder) that can hold up tp 109 pics on it’s internal memory chip. It runs on 2 AAA batteries. It takes better pics than a Sharp VivaCam that I have.
Hmmmmm…sounds like we could use a “how to” graffiti thread…oh wait, it’ll get deleted, never mind.