Weathering Steam Running Gear

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I just acquired an Athearn Genesis Lt. Mikado, I’d like to weather it
and I don’t know what the best way is to blacken the now shiny
running gear. Paint? Chemical?

I’m open for suggestions.

Thanks,

Doug

2

Just about anything will work. Dilute weathered black or gray with a brush, or remove and mask and use an airbrush. Some prototypes even had painted gear. I use a brush and dilute weathered black Floquil and I am satisfied with the result, as I don’t want it too dark. On some locos I have used a lighter gray as I want them to look more well kept from an appearance standpoint. A little bit splotchy is good, as that was how they really looked.

3

Would a India ink and alcohol wash be ok to weather running gear to a Steamer??? Kevin

4

Place the engine on an old piece of flextrack, add power, run the engine slowly, hold it with one hand and airbru***he running gear with the other. I generally use grimy black and dirt, thinned and applied lightly.

5

I vaguely remember seeing an article in Model Railroader a few years back about some chemical treatment that could be used to do this? Anyone remember the issue?

Also, there used to be a chemical available under the brand name “Blacken-It” (I think) used for blackening wheelsets, etc. Anyone ever used it or know if it’s still available?

Doug

6

Try Neolube: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83181

Works like a charm.

Andre

7

Thanks to all who replied.

Doug

8

I have been airbrushing my drivers while they are propt up above my workbench,running slowly.I have used polly s,floquil or scalecoat with good results with all of them.The last engine i painted,i sprayed first with scalecoat ll grimy black,then the next day with a light coat of polly scale earth.I have just tried neo-lube and that looks pretty good,but i don’t know how well it’s going to hold up.It’s easy enough to brush on ,but i may try airbrushing it my next engine

9

the india ink may not take on the shiney metal of the rods.even when i spray paint,i clean the metal with alcohol

10

Neolube works great. I’ve heard in fact that its conductivity is not a problem in terms of bridging the insulated drivers but I’ve always tried to avoid it. Neolube is available for $8.95 from P-B-L (versus $13.95 from MicroMark).

11

Notice the staining on the engine boiler, the steam or water is full of stuff like salts, alkali, etc, these tend to leave a whitish or gray stain on the engine, especially around anything that emits steam, I use a light gray artist’s acrylic paint diluted with water, let it dry, if it’s not enough color, add another coat of the original paint, it’s called layering, until you get the right texture.

12

Using an air brush or aerosol cans to spray paint these areas is not necessary. They’re nice if you have them, however, painting with a brush will work also. I paint my running gear with Floquil grimy black, weathered black, roof brown etc. and feel i get good results.

13

I’ve got some photos of my UP Challenger coming soon. I brush painted the driver faces with Polly S grimey black and mud with some talcum powder mixed in. Then I neolubed up them shiney Lionel rods. Looks pretty sweet.

Is there any practical way to keep neolube from coming off? Dullcote or somthing? Its seems the slightest touch wipes it away.

And tatans, look at my signature. What you mentioned was part of my process. Polly S aged white streaked with a fine point brush.