If you can clean the paint well from the area soldering should work to bridge the joiner/ rail junction. However, if there is too much paint in the junction itself you might have a problem getting the solder to form a good bond. You could get around this by soldering a small jumper wire across the junction but it would probably be better to add an additional feeder.
Joe
Yeah, I still think that it would take a good thick coating of polyscale to paint to cause a problem. Plus I will be careful around joiners and not slop on the paint around like a slob. If I take my take my time and dont rush it and try to get it all done in one day I think I will be fine. Just need to be careful around joiners and switch points.
I just use a fine brush and craft paints, I do ties in several washes of grays and browns to look like older weathered ties, then, use a brown for rails, dark brown or one of the rustier shades like cinnamon works on rails. A little wash of browns on tie plates and ballast to simulate rust washes from weather. A little black down the center in spots where locos may sit and idle for a spell, like sidings or turnouts to simulate oil and grease.
If you get craft paint on sides or tops, you can scrape it off with your finger nails. It’s tedious, but put on some tunes and just work at it, you’ll be surprised how far you get.mh
Thanks guys. I did some more track this morning.
I have used the rusty rails painter and find that it works best when used as a paint roller. Dip the roller into the paint as you go.
I haven’t read all replies to this thread. I was in the same situation with a small section of the layout and found painting the sides of the rails after ballasting to be unenjoyable.
Thinking back to my days as a teenager when I worked for the city street department, we used to use aluminium stencils when air painting the “ONLY’s and arrows” on to the road. At the end of each day, the last step of the cleaning process was to grease up the stencils for the next day so, the paint slides off when cleaning them.
I wonder if you put a thin coat of oil, vaseline, tranny fluid, etc, on the top of the rail before you paint, it would allow the rails to clean up better, which might allow you to be less careful about how you applied the paint and make the process to go quicker.
Then clean the track like you normally would after the paint dries to remove the residue.
I haven’t tried this…just wondering.
I haven’t found cleaning rails to be a problem (and I’m wary of putting anything thing like vaseline, etc on rails that I’m going to be wanting to remove).
I just airbrush the rail and ties in place (before ballast). Goes pretty fast. Afterwards, a swipe with a cloth pad that’s been soaked in xylene or paint thinner (make sure you wear your filter mask!) is enough to remove the paint from the top of the rails.
Yes Charlie, I would be wary of that too…which is why I was hoping somebody else would be the guinea pig…[:D]
My problem is that when I clean the rails with a cloth and thinner, I end up removing some of the paint from the side of the rails too. I’ve found the only way to have paint on the sides of the rails but not on the top, is to slowly paint the sides, or to scrape the tops after the paint has dried. That takes more effort than I like.
Maybe this is one of those pay me now or pay me later deals.
Time and effort is saved in painting with an air brush but it seems you give that savings up later with the cleaning of the top of the rails.
Hand painting takes longer but you clean up the rails as you go with a wet rag, paper towel, or sponge. Very easy and no fumes.
I’ve only used the brush method so this is just my 2 cts. worth.
Bob
Yep I’ve done it. A friend helped me by using Testers pens for weathering. Holds up well also. One pen covered almost 30 feet of track for rail brown and rust. easy application too. The only draw back is it’s enamel.I kept a rag of paint thinner handy if I got some on the ballast.
Good luck.
I have had the same problem and used Testors weathering pens they work great and allow you time if it gets on the ballast. The rust pen covered around 15 - 20 feet of track. Rail brown looks good also covers the same.
good luck
Don’t worry about the mistake; we all make them. In my case, I had forgotten to paint the track before installing and ballasting. I use diluted white glue to affix my ballast, so it’s just a matter of re-soaking it and vacuuming it up.
Hi all. [:D]
I wouldn’t go to all that work.
In my opinion the rails should be painted after the ballast is laid. I was also concerned about the proper time to paint, (as noted at the start of this thread). After looking at pictures of one =one on Railpictures.net They showed the rust was kicked out about a foot on each side of each rail. Also there was a blackish smudge down the center of the track. Now, if the track had been freshly ballasted this would not apply.
Have fun and don’t work too hard. [swg]
Lee
Mister Beasley, it is somewhat comforting to know that other long term MRs can make rookie mistakes.
In my experience, its typically because of wanting to move on to another building phase, or having a mind cluttered with so many other things, or just plain ol distractions.
While I have never been in your same situation (I weather after laying/wiring the track, but before ballasting), I suspect the only way to “fix it” is to slowly and methodically paint each rail with either a marker pen, small artists brush, or if you are really good - with a fine airbrush line.
Please let us know how it all works out!
Headed up to Orlando today to get some Floquil pens. I’ll be interested to see how it turns out. My track is ballasted and ready for a little weathering. seems like a good way to get the job done