I’ve been told several times by model builders, that are much more talented and advanced than myself, that they usually… but not always… paint a plastic kit’s sections while it is still on the sprues. At least a base coat, that is. They then assemble the kit.
What I’m wondering is when to do the weathering and the application of Dullcote, especially where the models windows are concerned. I suppose it is a no-no to Dullcote windows because they lose their ‘glass’ look, the very thing we want them to look like. So, do you always install the ‘glass’ windows last, after all painting, weathering and Dullcoting is done? Or do you install the windows as you assemble the building and put something over them to protect them from the weathering and anti-shine steps?
Dullcote doesn’t just lose the “glass” look, it covers the windows with a translucent haze. If I want to create the look of a window that is totally messy, crud-covered and pretty much unusable as a window, then I’ll install it before hitting the Dullcote, but otherwise it’s simpler to put the window in later. One special effect I have seen is using masks (either that liquid mask stuff or tape masks) to simulate windshield wipers’ paths on a locomotive cab. When done right, it makes the window look foggy except for where the wipers clear away grime as well as water. When building a structure, putting something over the window to keep Dullcote off the glass isn’t always practical because sometimes you want to Dullcote the rest of the structure of the window.
Yes, I can see that if you had a structure like a mining area building, New River Mining comes to mind, then it may be ok to dullcote the windows since they’re pretty grimy anyway. I imagine most modelers put the glass in last if they want to keep the shine.
If the structure is not going to be detailed and or lighted, fogging the windows with dullcoat can be a plus since it hides the fact the structure is a big empty shell. I’ve tried several methods of weathering. My favorite is alcohol/ink washes which are brush applied so I don’t worry about the glass. Recently I’ve started using chalks which I overspray with dullcoat and if I want to keep the windows clear for interior detailing, I’ll install the glass after the weathering is applied.
I try to do all the painting, particularly spray painting, before I assemble the building. I de-sprue the walls first, because I want to clean up around the sprues, and if the sprue point is visible it needs to get painted anyway. After I’ve painted and weathered the walls, then I put in the window glass, and add window shades and curtains behind the windows where necessary. Then I assemble the building, do any cleanup brush painting, and add detail parts like air conditioners or fire escapes.
If you’re not going to do an interior you can fog the windows by spraying the windows with Dullcote on the INSIDE of the “glass” so the outside part is still shiny. However, it might be better to install clear glass after dullcoting and then tape something like wax paper over the inside of the window to “fog” it. That way, if you decide later to add an interior later, you can just remove the wax paper, instead of having to replace all the windows.
I just finished building some DPM kits. What I did was assemble the basic four walls together after I cleaned the flash etc off of them. I then painted the walls and the windows and doors a separate colour. I then weathered the building and the windows and doors. I then installed the glass in the windows and installed the finished windows and doors on the building, added the roof and all the other detail pieces. The buildings turned out very nice and I’m happy with them.
Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. I have a friend that always spray paints the sections while they’re still on the sprue, while I’ve preferred removing them from the sprue before painting. I guess it would depend on the kit you’re doing and if the numbers for the individual pieces are molded into the piece or is on the sprue. I think I still like removing from the sprues first, painting them as much as possible, glueing them together and then weathering and THEN trying to get the windows in place… although I’ve seen some kits that the window would be hard to get to after the walls are glued together.
If I am not doing interior details, I use a light coat of Floquil dust on the inside of the windows. I find that the effect is realistic, does not destroy the outside glass effect and hides the lack of interior detail. Peter Smith, Memphis