I am interested in any tips on using chalk to weather some freight cars, engines and builidings in HO scale; I previously checked on this subject and found some valuable info on it. I am just looking for some tips and recommendations for some weathering chalks. From what I have found so far, it appears the chalks made by Bragdon and Bar Mills seem to be the most popular. Any tips on using the chalks would be appreciated. Thanks.
I can’t give you expert advice, as I’m really more of a hit and miss weathering kind of guy (mostly my steam locomotives).
But here’s a few things I’ve found out using the Bragdon self-adhesive powders (actually, they’re not ‘chalk’).
1: They adhere best to a surface that has been treated with a dull finish–Matte or Dullcoat. That way the powder has a good surface to ‘grab’ onto.
2: I’ve found that the best way for me to apply them is to use either a stiff-bristled artists brush or a Q-tip.
3: Don’t go overboard. Do the weathering lightly in coats, instead of all at once.
4: Seal the work with another shot of Dullcote or Matte when you’re finished to your satisfaction.
5: And I think the most important–study color photos (if possible) of whatever equipment you’re going to ‘weather’. Do you want light weathering or heavy weathering. If you’re weathering steam locomotives, was the railroad you’re modeling a ‘good housekeeper’ or satisfied with letting the locomotives build up a lot of mileage between washings?
I know that other posters will answer this particular post with a lot more expert advice, so I’ll quit for now. But this is what I’ve learned since I’ve started ‘weathering’ my steamers. [:)]
Tom
Ahh weathering…Another side of this hobby. If its done right, it will make a layout look even more realistic.
Its all about practice and patience. I use Bragdon, and AIM weathering powders. I agree with Tom, ts needs to be dullcoated. Give the powders something to grab. I also mix the powders into oil paints.
It also depends on what look you are going for. Very rusty (cars,engines), can be done in layers. Sometimes some powder makes a car look good, and no rust at all.
Buildings, I normally just give a light dusting. Mixed with some browns, light colors.
You will have to get a mixture of brushes. Different sizes, and maybe some gloves (keeps the finger prints off the cars, buildings). So many tips, and ideas for “weathering”. Its good to get a idea of how you want to weather, to see if you will like it or not. Like I said before…Practice and patience.
Here’s a few cars I’ve done. I don’t have that many buildings on my layout right now, I would do it the same way. Just a light dusting. Also look at pictures for ideas.
Everyone is spot on so far…dullcoat first. I’ve used regular chalk and have had excellent results. I agree with layering as well…dullcoat again to protect but you’ll see that most of the chalk will disappear. I now use chalk and my newly minted airbrush. I’ve made some freight cars look like they’ve been sitting in a duststorm for 10 years…
Many users of the Bragdon Enterprises self adhesive powders swear you do not need to seal with Dullcoat but if a car is likely to be handled sealing with some sort of fixitive (artist’s fixitives exist other than Dullcoat) seems to be in order.
Most people’s experience is, you weather with chalks or pastels or charcoal sticks, it looks perfect, you apply Dullcoat, poof most of it is gone, but don’t lose faith! The Dullcoat you applied gives the surface excellent “tooth” for future applications of the powders. You go over it again, Dullcoat, more it it stays but it still loses something – multiple applications may be in order. But the end result, as the above photos show, is a feeling of color and texture that are next to impossible to duplicate any other way. Somehow the chalks capture a sense of color and weathering that is into the surface rather than on it.
Dave Nelson