can anyone give me some good tips on weathering rolling stock with chalks. thanks[8D]
Welcome!!
First chalk can be wiped off, this is good, no mistakes.
I like to use, depending on color of car, medium to dark earth colors or light to medium earth colors. I know this isn’t helping but the best thing to do is experiment because you can’t make mistakes. When you are happy with the results give a light coat of DullsCoat, this prevents the caulk from coming off but may also fade your chalk a litle. If it does just add alittle more chalk and reapply DullsCoat. Hope this helps you start.
gpman,
Forgot, either apply directly with chalk stick or sand down to create powder and apply with Q-tips etc—. If appling with stick go lightly and rub with Q-tip etc-- outward from the applied chalk line and blend it. Again hope this helps.
This was asked not to long ago. here is a link to that topic.
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=-1&TOPIC_ID=52220&REPLY_ID=579571#579571
Large bushy makeup brushes work well for applying the chalk powder. Just use a new one not a used one, and don’t buy it yourself, have the wife or girlfriend go with you (You get some really wierd looks if you go yourself). Also, keep in mind that the colors of the chalk darken when you mist on the dullcoat, so use a shade or two lighter chalk then you want the final result to end up.
Okay I am confused…when I use chalk on my rolling stock, I should use dullcoat to seal it. But if I use Powder, do I still need dullcoat?
Tnanks Darick
Here’s my take on Chalk/DullCote…
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=38920
If you use CHALK, and spray on DULLCOAT 95% of the chalk will come off. You will have to do it several times to get the right effect. If you WEATHERING POWDER (Bragdon or AIM) it will stay on after you use the DULLCOAT. I would never weather a car with Chalk or Powder without adding a coat of DULLCOAT. Weathering Powder and Chalk are NOT the same thing.
I’m currently using artists pastels. Dull Cote will dimini***he effect if applied over the pastels. There’s no real reason to Dull Cote over the final “dirt/dust/rust” layer of chalk, the Dull Cote holds it in place very well. YMMV.
You are correct Grande man there is no point! but if you have to move a car manually with your hand you’re gonna have a nice Finger print on your loco, or car… So i recomend this… If You would like to understand Weathering better, Then go pick up Model rail roader book “Basic Painting and Weathering”… it’s a good book and I learned how to weather from it! I will make a post asking if anyone has used oil pastels, it talks of them in the book… You may want to try oil pastels instead of chalk!.. ok im gonna go ask now!
I haven’t had the fingerprint problem, but everyone is different in how they handle their equipment. As for the book, there’s about a million different ways to accompli***he same thing. DullCote/Chalk is a BASIC weathering method to produce realistic looking models quickly, in quantity. As for advanced techniques, folks like Mellow Mike can produce incredible looking models, but they take much time and effort. That’s alot to ask if you need to weather the locos/rolling stock/buildings for an entire RR!
I under stand[:)]
grande man,
Yes you are correct. ONLY if the cars are not handled a lot. In my case the cars I weather are handled often because I take them to the club were they get moved quite often. Thats why I dullcoat everything after the weathering is done. In the case of not being touched your method is fine. In my case it wouldn’t last long.
First I clean the car with soap & water…let it dry…I have a jar with Isopropyl alcohol that I put a few tiny drops of black India ink…then I lightly brush on this so it get into all the lines and details…then when the car is dry I rub & brush on chalk in areas that on a real car would collect grime & dirt…I use photos of cars of the same color and type to get my ideas. If you handle your cars alot use some dulcoat.
