weathering with real rust powder

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I have a bottle of REAL rust powder. It is magnetic, but can get a fine dust powder. Any idea if this would make a good weathering material> Thanks in advance

2

So, it’s actually rust, scraped off of, whatever, and ground to a powder ?

Well, maybe if it is “sealed” after application, with, maybe Dull Coat, or something similar, maybe, but you really don’t want something that may contain metalic particles, on your tracks.

On a job site, I once picked up containers ( actually, concrete test cylinders, with lids ) of a granular product used in WWTF’s (Waste water treatment facilities), in the filtering process. It looked like the perfect ore car loads, but when I got them home, I stuck a magnet into the granulars, and it came out full of particles. So, I dumped them.

I also gathered some material that looked like the perfect ballast, darn, it didn’t pass the magnet test.

I guess it’s up to you.

Mike

3

Yikes, that sounds like potential trouble for sure! Most of us work hard to avoid any hint of rust.

True, if you were weathering a car side and sealed it with dull-cote it would be fine. But messing with it may allow it to get into a locos innards and that ain’t good. I think I would look elsewhere (powdered chalks) for weathering…

4

I have used real rust, or iron oxide I suppose to be more correct. Years ago I helped take apart a huge, water-tube heat exchanger and the thing was nearly filled with a bright orange muck.

I scooped up about two gallons worth, dried it on trays in an oven then sifted it through a 100 mesh screen, then further did some through a 250 mesh screen.

I’ve used it liberally on hopper cars and their interiors and several locomotives for a weathering effect. I sprayed the Dullcote beforehand to give the very fine, talc-like powder something to adhere to. I sealed a few with Dullcote afterward but most I did not. If you avoid too much handling the powder stays just fine, of course don’t have wet or oily hands if you touch the cars.

I keep an old Athearn box full of the stuff—well, not full, but about a quarter-inch in the bottom. I can set the car in and liberally dry-brush the Rust-O-Magic® (My moniker!) then tap off the excess and I have a Q&D weathering job.

It does not compare with a careful, planned weathering job but it looks lots better than all shiny new cars on the road.

Never had any issues with electrical problems and I wouldn’t use it on ballast or in close proximity of electronic components.

Good Luck, Ed

5

I have some real rust dust, but haven’ used it on rolling stock for previously stated reasons. Weathering powders are not that expensive, why take a chance?

6

I’m not a scientist nor have I had the opportunity to experiement with this, but…I don’t think a layer of dullcoat would provide any insulating barrier from it’s magnetic characteristics. Thus said, there’s more potential for problems than benefits around electrically energized equipment and/or metal (track, wheels, etc) components.

7

Well, really now… I think my “Plated metal finish” passenger cars have a greater electrical potential than a little dusting of Fe2O3. It has been on there for maybe fifteen years or so with no adverse reactions as yet.

The cars even pass over a Kadee track magnet without hesitation or flipping over.

I have Bragdon powders, chalks, acrylics, Pan-Pastels, artists oils, India inks and all sorts of airbrushed acrylic paints used for weathering. The ferric oxide is just one more toy in the box.

You probably run a greater risk of causing electrical interference by using Kadee Greas 'em in your draft gear. How conductive is graphite? I get a dead short placing a graphite motor brush across the rails.

It’s all about m o d e r a t i o n…

Ed

8

There you go, nothing beats a good 'ole fashion reality check! But, magnetism and electrically conductive are 2 different things. Example: aluminum is a metal, it conducts electricity, but I have a heck of a time getting a magnet to attract.

Yes, I brought up electricity, but should have stuck with the OP original question about magnetic.

9

thanks to all. I would only use it on place carbodies then oversray with Dullcote to hold it in place. Will experiment, many thanks to all of you. Model railroaders are great! Andy

10

Just wondering about the source of your rust powder…you have a backyard full of Chevys? [swg]

11

I cut apart a large water heater into three pieces to get it out of my attic. Lots of rust on the inside, so it it wise to flush your water heater occasionally. !

12

I live “out in the sticks”, and therefore my water will have small amounts of rust in it, along with a few other “undesirables” when using it for anything, when unfiltered and untreated. But, treating it makes it unusable for painting… Still has some minerals, but also small amounts of softener salt. This will leave a nice white residue when dried…

But my water softener, filter, and, not the least of them, hot water heater will still all have some rust… Amongst other things.

Is it any wonder we have drinking water run through three different treatment systems before we drink it? (Whole house filter system, water softener, then another filter, made especially for drinking water, mounted under cabinet in the kitchen. Even then, for painting, I still use distilled water, once you ruin a paint job once…)

13

I found some great Rust material in side old steam pipes. Used a small Morter & Pestle to grind the Rust up to fine powder, then apply it using a soft brush to inside of gondolas and hoppers. I like the color!