Gidday All, Cool damp Friday evening, autumn is definitely here.
New meets Old on the AMG.
Have A Great One Folks, [:D]
Cheers, the Bear.
Gidday All, Cool damp Friday evening, autumn is definitely here.
New meets Old on the AMG.
Have A Great One Folks, [:D]
Cheers, the Bear.
Well, I finally got some more cars done this week.
Eastern Car Works 1958CF ACF Covered Hopper Kit, added airlines and A-Line Sill Steps, painted with Scalecoast II MofW Gray and lettered with Champ Decals.
Stewart 14 Panel Hopper, painted with Scalecoat II Black and lettered with Herald King Decals.
East Car Works 2000CF Enterprise Covered Hopper Kit, added airlines and A-Line Sill Steps, painted with Scalecoat II MofW Gray and lettered with what I believe are F&C Decals (They were in the box).
Thanks for looking!
Rick J
No Rust on My Railroad - Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch I
Good morning Bear.
A cool damp Friday morning here. Spring definitely on the way.
Isn’t it nice that in this hobby we can share our layouts world wide?
Nice photos folks, thanks for sharing.
Have fun,
Richard
Bear : Nice photo! … Robby: I like the weathered Soo Box Car … Rick J : Great looking freight cars! … Micheal : Impressive line up of modern power!
Has anyone heard from DJ ( Grampy’s Trains). I Hope he is okay.
Below is my recently re-powered doodlebug on the branchline. Now, it performs very well.
EDIT … Additing another picture below
Good evening Bear, it’s been a foggy spring day on the Maine coast and the blackflies (otherwise known as the unofficial Maine state bird) are out and biting!
I have been working on an update to the model RR pages to the Boothbay Railway Village website, and have done some photos fo some scenes around the fishing village
http://www.railwayvillage.org/
Looking at you from the lighthouse
Pulling lobster traps
Working in the pumpkin patch (at least some are)
Going fishin
Wedding reception line at the church
Working on the dock
Power plant substation
warning, 56K users beware. lol:
Here’s a rescued, cheap project:
I also messed with some BN locos. This pair of C30-7s now has anti-climber and the correct stideframes, and a working beacon in 5127 (5533 has QSI sound, and has no way to make it work other than via a function decoder). I also painted the cut levers so they weren’t green (pics show them as black with white ends):
Also here is 1 of 2 proto 2000 GP38-2s that has working beacons.
This is a caboose I got from the train depot/museum/hobby shop in milton for $7 [8D]. After a little bit of paint work, I got this:
[URL=http://s275.photobucket.com/user/PackerPhan66/media/IMG_362
I haven’t had a whole lot of time this week to work on the layout. We’ve had a whole week of gorgeous, 70+ degree weather, so I’ve been outside doing spring yard cleanup. When you have a 1 acre yard and surrounded on all sides by dense forest, believe me there’s a lot to clean up in the spring!
I did manage to scratch build this simple little bridge over the Beaver pond stream. Made of sheet styrene, basswood and the railings were cut & fashioned from parts of the sides of an old Life-Like conveyor. There used to be a lot of little make-shift bridges that looked just like this up in Aroostook County, primarily spanning small streams on backwoods, gravel logging roads. They used whatever was easily at hand to build them. Usually some steel beams forming the span, then bolted down the heaviest Oak planking they could lay their hands on & the railings were usually welded pieces of whatever kind of metal they could scrounge up.
“Great, but will it support a fully loaded logging truck?”
“We’ll find out when the first one comes along.”
So, the first one passed over it safely & they said, “Yup, we got us a bridge there!” Backwoods, high-tech engineering at it’s best.
I seriously doubt that the BAR had any such bridges on their lines up there…but they do on this layout. LOL! I am thinking the stained deck needs one more dry-brush wash of light gray on it though.
Kind of psyched up this morning. I have to go down to southern Maine & the best, (and one of the few remain
Carl,
Sounds like you live in my neck of the woods. LOL
Sam
A good start to WPF guys. Keep them coming!
Nothing new from the BRVRR this week. Here is an old favorite:
NYC #9515 proceeds westbound as a NYC passenger train passes on the outer main line of the BRVRR layout at dusk.
Keep the photos and ideas coming everyone. You always make this the best thread of the week.
The model RR shops keep closing in Maine, and no new ones open. You will be glad you stopped at Maine Modelworks. It is a small shop, but one of the best.
I should invest in an airbrush but anywho here’s SP&S #867 (A) and #212 B they’ll be the first loco’s I weather.
All good shots. It’s nice to see the quality of photos and modeling just getting better and better.[:)]
Did some concrete work and took a couple of test shots under the new track lighting that I just got up.
Eastbound at the Indian Line crossing:
…and a couple of shots at nearby Chippawa Creek:
Wayne
I think that you must have meant to say that “…it doesn’t work for me.” [swg]
I use regular masking tape, but I’m sure there are many who have good had success using the stuff from Testors.
If I recall correctly, you brush-painted those locos, which usually puts a lot more wet paint right at the tape edges than does airbrushing.
To improve the performance of almost any brand of masking tape, lay out a length of it, sticky side down, on a sheet of clean glass, and using a straightedge and new blade, trim off at least 1/8" from the “working” edge. This removes nicks, dings, stuck-on fuzzies, and the part of the adhesive most-exposed to air, which makes it less-sticky.
When applying the tape, work, when necessary, to pencilled reference marks to keep it straight. On your FA, it looks like the colour separation was supposed to be at the lower edge of the horizontal batten strip, which would be a good point of reference for keeping things straight. The tape should be smoothed into place as you apply it, and don’t stretch it, especially when crossing three- dimensional areas, such as the vertical batten strips.
Instead, place it firmly right up to the obstacle, then work it up and over, then back down the raised details - stretching it over these areas and then trying to work it down with your fingernail or other tool will work temporarily, but the tape will soon re-assume its original length, lifting itself from the detail’s surface. Once all tape is in place, use a suitable tool to burnish all edges where the next coat of paint is to be applied.
To remove the tape with minimal lifting of underlying paint, do so as soon as the new paint has dried to the touch - with airbrushed paints, this is almost immediately, but brushed-on paint will vary by br
Hi George;
I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Maine Model Works! For a small size shop, they have a nice stock & selection. It’s nice to actually get into a hobby shop, poke around, chat & actually get a “hands-on look” at some of this stuff before you part with your money. There are SO few train & or hobby shops in this neck of the woods anymore.
Found everything I was looking for, took it up to counter & then popped the question, given the current short supply…“I don’t suppose you’ve got any Code 83 Flex Track?”
“Oh, yeah, no problem.”
He’s got boxes of it!! And if you buy a bundle of 5 pieces or more, he gives 20% off on it! So got all my supplies & all the track I needed (which was an unexpected bonus). He said the only thing in Atlas Code 83 track he’s still having problems getting are turnouts.
Carl
Espee 4-10-2 #5011 pulls a freight out of the South Yuba Canyon near Wagon Wheel Gap. The joke among the crew is that the loco will straighten out any curve it comes across.
Tom
Hey everyone! Some great photos again. Wayne, that’s a beautiful scene on your layout! Nice bridge! We finally started our roundhouse project, or as I like to call it “project nightmare”! A few years ago, I decided to buy a Walthers modern roundhouse kit to go with our 130’ TT. Recently, I picked up two add on stall kits giving us a nice 9 stall roundhouse. With two B&O EM1’s, two C&O Alleghenies, and a Pennsy T1 to store there, I thought we would use the extension to give us ample room for these behemoths. The kit has the floor extensions for all three stalls on each kit, but not the proper length back wall and extended roof for all three, so with a little modification, I was able to extend all of the stalls. I used the one extended roof piece as a template, and took an old tote lid which is fairly thick styrene, and made the two other extended roof pieces. I’ll do the same for the two add on kits. The difficult part will be revamping the curves on the two mainline tracks that run behind the roundhouse. The good thing is that it will make a more gradual curve, and that should give our bigger locomotives better clearance there. Here are some of the initial photos of the project. I still have to build the two add on kits.
We plan on making it an 18 stall roundhouse when it’s complete. the remaining nine stalls will be without the extension. The smoke jacks that come with the kit are inadequate for allowing smoke from MTH and BLI steamers to escape, so I will scratchbuild replicas of the square smoke jacks used on the B&O roundhouse at here East Salamanca. More pics to come!
-Stan