I am taking the next few days off and celberated 52 years yesterday, I will kick off the madness we call MR’ing: Been working on a citrus growing region of my layout called ORANGE CITY. Here’s some of the shots. It’s a blatant rip-off of Bob Smaus’ “Arroyo”.
weather is really bogging down traffic on the B&M’s 3713th sub-division.
Just the other day a southbound potato train derailed due to an imperfection due to flooding. I also included a pic from earlier this winter and a prototype from last weekend.
My car shops released a new baggage car made from an old Rivarossi car.
CB&Q made 60 such cars in 1950 in their Nebraska shops. 20 painted silver and 40 painted traditional green like my car. (They may have decided on two color schemes to help future model railroaders have variety in their train consists.)
My baggage car has 8 foot doors on left of each side, roof vents, body mounted kadee couplers, Tenshodo trucks, extra weights, and wire grab irons.
A frustrated crew has just finished fixing there CB Attenna before dark. The sun is setting fash as the crew man runs to get the switching going again. The lights came on and looks like they won’t have to drop off there load of lumber in the dark. The WC should cut this crew some slack and get a new caboose as this railfan shows on a warm June evening.
How did you get the light to work I mean I wanted to do this with my nw Ho scale but never figured it out. Does your turntable have the ability to turn 360 degress with the lights attached?
Yup. It was easy as pie. You can’t do it in HO, though, because you have to be able to think small…
I pulled the lights from the track power. Another benefit of DCC is the constant AC track voltage… Try THAT with your Cab Control!! (So actually, yes, you can do it in HO… but only with DCC. Although, there’s probably room under the bridge for a battery pack, but that might upset the balance of the bridge.)
LOL… Well, I am not sure this is true (I use DCC!!!)… you could do this from any power source. Using a few zener diodes and a common bridge circuit…BAM… nice and small to and would fit under your turntable… Add a capacitor and you likely would not even have a flicker if you use a split rail design… just my humble opinion. That being said, a bit of work.
So, anyways, NICE lit turntable… I am so jealous…just gotta build mine…hmmm… Have a great weekend!
mikelhh, really nice weathering job on that caboose!
I’ve been slowly working on my backdrop. Decided I had better get the background done before doing anymore foreground work.
Captured these scences from the web, photoshop’d them, cut treelines using some “magic” scissors from my wife and have them taped together as a collage. Have not decided if I will reprint at highest quality and paste down permanently.
Lee wouldnt the DCC voltage short out the lights? doesnt DCC run at 14v to 16v ? some great specific details would be great and very appreciative. you can private message me if you dont want to let out your secrete to everyone.
On the other news I may be finally getting back into the train room to do some work tonight.
That’s really nice. But, I’ve got to ask about the trackwork. It almost looks like you’ve got S-gauge superimposed on HO. Why the 3 rails? Are these all hand-laid?