I was putting some fishing weights into a car last night and went to my garage shop to look for that twin syringe of epoxy I just knew I had in the cabinet. Couldn’t find it, but did find a tube of 3M Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive (part # 03601). This contains MEK and epoxy resin as it’s active ingredients. I attached the weights to the original steel car weight (in a caboose) and after curing for a day, they were firmly in place. I am not knowledgeable about the chemical effects of MEK on styrene, so perhaps a more learned modeler could comment on that, although I have used standard hardware store type epoxy on weights and styrene plastic. The tube I have is black in color, with the 3M name and plaid logo on the front. I believe you can get this at auto parts stores, but I got mine from a local auto paint shop, so it might be available from professional suppliers. Cedarwoodron
MEK is aggressive and will easily remove paint–as you probably know. Try it on plastic, it will probably melt it. But that glue is good and strong. Of course once the MEK which is pretty volatile, evaporates, it’s obviously not a problem.
Richard
The 3M clear emblem as well as the black and yellow weatherstripping adhesives are just contact cement on steroids. Automotive “plastic” emblems are secured w/ this stuff and stay for many years w/ no ill effects… Even though it contains such “hostile” chemicals, MEK etc these dry rather quickly and as long as you don’t apply large amounts the plastic should be OK. I perfer to use the 3M weatherstripping adhesive over the $$$ Wather’s Goo.
Not to beg the question, but, as most car emblems are some type of plastic, generally paint “chromed” on all sides, why does this not affect them, as well as the paint on the car to which it is adhered. I wouldn’t want to use it as a general adhesive beyond the metal to metal use I just made of it, unless there is some metal to plastic potential use of it. In the meantime, the metal to metal bond works for me. Again, any further comment on this adhesive and it’s chemical nature would be informative. Thanks, Cedarwoodron
Back in the dark ages when it could be purchased over the counter I used MEK to weld styrene parts together. Once the smell went away, there was no further effect.
MEK itself is not an adhesive. It just carries adhesive to where it can work. It welded plastic the same way heat welds steel - by softening the mating parts so the base material flows together.
IIRC, plain MEK is now a controlled substance. Thanks, huffers!
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Automotive emblems are usually attached using 3M double sided tape
Cedar,
I use silicone adhesive for tacking down weights and like it because it’s:
- strong
- a gap-filler (especially for the long, flat metal weights in Accurail boxcars that aren’t always flat)
- doesn’t run
- safe (no nasty chemicals)
- easy to clean up
- remains flexible in all temperatures
- can be pried back off, if needed
I bought a tube of it (DAP Household Adhesive Sealant) at my local hardware store and it should last me for quite a while. It’s the same stuff they use for sealing the edges on aquariums.
Double-sided foam tape works and holds well, too. The downside though is that it protrudes more than a thin layer of silicon adhesive. I mainly use foam tape to affix decoders to the chassis.
Tom
MEK is a plastic solvent. It’s been commonly used as a liquid plastic cement for modeling. By applying a small amount of it to a joint between two pieces of styrene, it welds the pieces together by melting them together.
MEK is the primary ingredient listed on my bottle of Testor’s Plastic Model Cement by the way.
MEK (butanone) is not a controlled substance. Some stores will choose not to sell it and claim legal reasons, but in most jurisdictions there are no restrictions.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanone
For attaching weights, I use DAP Household Silicone Adhesive and let it set up for a week or so before sealing the car. The flexible bond seems to make the car roll more quietly.
As Graham Line mentioned 2-butanone, also known as methy-ethyl-ketone (MEK), is not a controlled substance; however, it is used in the manufacturing of controlled substances and is probably not readily available in pure form by the general public. It is also a hazardous substance that should be respected when handled—adequate ventilation, gloves, eye protection are recommended.
Wayne
I bought a quart can of MEK for about $10.00 at Lowe’s Home Improvement (paint department) less than 2 months ago. Can’t tell the difference between it and Tenax -7 for plastic assembly (as expected). At $5.00 an ounce, the equivalent price for the Tenax-7 is $160.00 - a no-brainer trade-off as far as I am concerned.
John, thanks for the information. That does surprise me as I thought there would be some restrictions placed on the retail sale of this solvent. Apparently I’m mistaken and appreciate knowing this, I’ll look around some of our box stores and see if it is available in this State. I don’t really need any, I’m just sort of curious.
Wayne
Now that I have heard about MEK from a number of you, I seem to recall that it was a commonly used item among serious modelers years ago. That being said, it must have to be used in very small amounts in any styrene application. Which begs another question- can it be used to re-attach Delrin or other acetal plastics together- think diesel diesel railings )?? Cedarwoodron
Will only marr the finish if that. Won’t melt the platic together as with styrene.
Has anyone found a product that will successfully bond broken Delrin parts. I have only been able to repair w/ heat fusing which can distort or dab of epoxy.
I stand corrected on the MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) availability. I just came back from our local hardware store where this is sold by the quart. I couldn’t find any information as to the purity level; however, it certainly is available at the retail level, which still surprises me.
Wayne