What is a good material to use to increase the weight of rplling stock?
How do you fasten it in place?
Bruce in the (cold cold) Peg
Several options are: used lead weights salvaged from the local tire installation shop (they usually just throw the old weights away) - just cut them down to provide the weight you need, scribed lead weights from the LHS, pennies out of your piggie bank. I have attached them using: double-sided foam tape (like you use to hang mirror tiles), silicon caulk. I generally put all the pieces of the car (if it is a kit) on my scale, then start adding weights until the total is correct. Then I install the weights wherever it makes sense during the build process (ideally low in the car and distributed 50/50 over the bolsters).
John
I weighted my athearn boxcars with pennies. I used goo to fasten them pernamently to each car. One complete car is placed on the scale and pennies is added into the scale basket until desired weight is reached and the pennies were distributed along the “floor” and gooed. Left over night. For me the athearn cars varied in the amount needed some took 5 pennies while other needed 14 pennies.
Then I threw away the plastic wheels and added metal Proto 2000 wheels 33" flatback
My target for a 40 foot car is:
1 ounce plus
1/2 ounce EVERY inch of actual car length.
(Athearn boxcar 6 actual inches divided by 1/2 = 3 ounces)
Total 4 ounces needed.
I found the athearn bocxcars weight about 3.4 ounces from the factory when assembly is completed. (this is without paint or metal wheels)
I use a walmart digital kitchen scale. It takes a 9 volt battery and has the ability to read grams, ounces and pounds. Be sure to zero your scale with each car weighted.
You can get a whole box (several pounds) of 1/2 ounce and 1/4 ounce tire weights for about $22.00 at many auto parts houses and automotive supply warehouses. These are the flat weights with the adhesive backing that you pay out the nose for at train shows and hobby shops.
Mark C.
BlindBruce,
For Covered Hoppers and Center Flow Hoppers BB Gun Bird Shot is great to use!
Fill in the hopper bins with the BB shots then dump white glue directly on top of the shots. The glue will fill in the nooks and crannies and after drying those small metal pellets will stay in place. I’ve had good success with this.
Hope this helps!
I like self-sticking A Line 1/2 oz weight’s. They’re convenient and don’t cost that much.
I use pennies and white glue in boxcars. I just bought some metal cows for my all wood stockcar.
Enjoy
Paul
For years we had the opposite problem- -metal/wood cars were too heavy. The older metal/wood freight car kits by Athearn, Roundhouse, et al., were heavy enough that a switch loco could handle only a five or six car lash-up through the yards. When it came to 80’-85’ metal/wood passenger cars with full interiors, i.e. chairs, bathroom, lighting kit, etc.) and “super details” i.e. white metal castings for underbody, i.e., battery boxes, steam traps, brakes, generator, A.C. compressor, etc…; the little open frame Pittman D.C. 70 motors were hard pressed to shift four or five Heavyweights. Of course, this was before the RP-25 wheel sets and even then the side frames and bolsters were metal as well. Now, with styrene and acrylics’ superior detailed cars there is no need for all of those “hang-on” details. However, there may be a lesson out of this. At least on Passenger Cars, the modeler might opt to add interior “super details” in metal where and if they are available. As already mentioned, loads for “open” freight cars i.e., hoppers, flats, gondolas, cattle, et al., are more easily accomodated realistically without resorting to “dead weights,” coins, etc. Wherever possible, wouldn’t it be better to add weight in a more creative manner? Just a thought from “left field,” enjoy.
HighIron2003ar,
Shouldn’t that be “1/2 oz. EVERY 1” of actual car length", not 1/2? That’s what I remember and that would fit your equation.
Tom
Recommended car weight in HO is 1 ounce plus 1/2 ounce per inch of car length. Geez, I had to go look 'cause the numbers quoted above looked close enough they threw me off. I’ve got the correct formula posted on my scale. I also have the derived weights listed for every length from 30 scale feet to 60 scale feet.
Mark C.
OOps. I guess I am a little 1/2 short of the correct formula.
Sorry! I messed up.
Thanks for the catching of my error. I have had too much weight on my mind when I typed it LOL.
I’m ready to buy a “Digital Scale” as I’m interested in accuracy.
I’ve read before that “cheap” spring loaded scales are not worth the money.
Do any of you have digital scales? I’ve heard that there are small digital scales on the market used to weigh food and/or postal items.
Thanks!
I bought a Digital Scale in the Kitchen section of my local Super walamart. It costed me 30.00 even and will do grams, ounces and pounds up to 5 pounds (I think) max.
I dont trust those little spring loaded scales.
The plastic “Bin” is useful.
I use offcuts of roofing lead - it’s quite thick but is easy to cut with suitable clippers (I use a set intended for sheet metal, which cut neatly). Flatten it in a vice and fix in place with either “gel” type superglue or PVA glue (depending on the location - I used PVA on a few containers where the top is removable but the sides, ends and base are one moulding. It will run out of gaps, so the gel is a better idea for models where the bodyshell unclips from the floor). The usual warnings about working with lead apply - it is toxic, so “scrub up” thoroughly after working with it.
Regarding the amount of weight to add, I read recently of a layout where the builder used a system based on the weight of the real vehicle - a 12T box van would be weighted differently to a 20T brake van, for example. Apparently this caused wheelspin trouble with some of his newer locos, though the increased weight really gave the impression of a heavy train.
If you work at a factory or machine shop, or know of some around town, you can get ahold of their scrap metal and use it. I work at a place that does a lot in stainless steel. I get some of their scrap and spray it black and hot glue it or super glue it inside my rolling stock - flat piece, and inch wide and several inches long, whatever I can get ahold of.
Have you seen one of those Model Power “Metal” tank cars? Those things are HEAVY!
My guess is about 12 ounces, I could be way off. But no way do they need to be that heavy.
I am surprised people are still suggesting lead after everything we know how poisonous it is. Especially if you have children in the house. There is a reason lead-based paint was banned quite awhile ago.
I would use metal nuts from hardware store or I may buy sheet metal there 2"x2’ or something like that, cut it and put it in the boxcars. Tank cars can use small nuts and bolts or sand.
Well, based on that philosophy, an HO scale 40’ boxcar (prototype weight 100,000 lbs) would weigh only 2.42 ounces. (Remember, you have to divide by the scale factor three (3) times.) So, prototypically speaking, we’re really overweighting our cars! And yes, I know, physics don’t change with the scale reduction, but it’s an interesting fact, nonetheless… [:)]
As far as the hazards in lead, lead is hazardous ONLY is you ingest it. Wash your hands THROUGHLY after using it and you’ll be fine.
Lead shotgun shot makes good weights. You can pour it in place and glue it with white glue, water, and alcohol.
As for weighing down cars, I’ve come to believe in using actual loads. For instance, the corret weight of a coal car is only achieved if you fill it with coal!
Mark in Utah
I used to used A-Line’s weights with the adhesive on the back but, I has having problems with the adhesive not sticking to the model after a period of time. So, I started using 7/16 in. hex nuts and CA and it works great!