Yes I did that, but it’s still a little small to see the details.
the locomotive is a GP 50 that originally had the DRG&W roadname…one thing though…the DRG&W never owned a GP 50 so I was forced to make it a UP …UP did have a few GP 50’s on their roster
sorry about that…that’s as big as they get…i’ve already deleted them from the camera so better luck next time…
Ok, no problem, thanks for all your help.
my next airbrush project is going to be two Alco PA 1 A units and a B unit…I’m trying to prototype the SP Sunset passenger train that ran from 1947 to 1963 before Amtrak took over passenger train service…i’m pulling it now with an F-7 A/B unit which was prototype towards the end but the PA’s were the best known diesel locomotives to pull the Sunset even though it was once pulled by a steam GS-11 Locomotive.
Which airbrush are you referring to?
I own an Aztek which is made by testors. I hook it up to my compressor with the supplied adapter. I have used it numerous times and I like it.
One of the things that I like best about it is how easy it is to clean, alot easier than the badger I also own.
the only testors airbrush i’ve seen was the one in the toy car model section of walmart …it was a plastic cheesy airbrush which I noticed would only accept the pressurized cans …others have varified that they purchased one and it was not a good airbrush at all…that’s why i didn’t buy it…chuck
Electro, the ones I see most often used by people who seem to airbrush a lot are Paasche, Aztec and Badger. I’m probably forgetting somebody, but one of those should make you happy.
I’ve been happy with the Paasche VL because it has lasted 10 years (and is still in service), the design is comfortable for me (fits in my mitts well), it does everything I need and I can get parts for it when I wear something out. I suspect Badger and Aztec users can probably make the same claims.
I’ve gotten pretty decent at controlling the double action mechanism, so I lean that way.
You can’t go wrong with the Paasche H airbrush as long as you keep it clean… The functional difference, (with Paasche) single and double action airbrushes is with Single, you pu***he trigger, and adjust the paint flow at the nozzle. With a double, you have a needle that you move in and out using the trigger. For both, you can get interchangeable tips, #1, #3, and #5, #1 being the smallest opening and #5 being the largest…
If you are going with this brand name, I would suggest the H to start with. Learn how to use and control it and it’ll probably serve you a lifetime. If you want to step up to a V series (double action, works much like an auto painters spray gun) later, you’ll at least have some idea of how they work.
I wouldn’t waste one penny on those cans of air. WAY overpriced and won’t last your paint job whatever it is. In fact, I wouldn’t waste the money on an airbrush compressor either… Instead, Go to Sears or someplace like that (or even mail order) and get one of those $99 compressors that has a tank. When spraying paint, it isn’t about PSI, it’s about air volume. The more capacity, the better. If you don’t have enough volume your airbrush will spit and sputter paint instead of spraying it…
Personally, I don’t like the PollyS paints for spraying because I find they tend to clog the airbrush. I don’t like the badger paint for the same reason. Floquil, thinner based, is the only thing I’ll spray (occasionally scalecoat as well)… I usually go 50/50 an
I would avoid all solvent-based paints (like Floquil) if you don’t have an decent air mask (and I’m not talking about a cloth one, I’m talking about a rubber one). Those particulates are just not good for your lungs. Even when using water-based paints, you should have some kind of mask and a paint booth. If you can smell it, it can effect your health down the road, and not in a positive way.
As for paint, I like Badger’s Model Flex. It’s pre-mixed for air brushes, and dries glossy for decal application. They also have more New Haven RR colors. I do like Polly Scale’s flat, gloss, and satin finishes more than Badger’s.
Paul A. Cutler III
Weather Or No Go New Haven
On that note, if you have the money to burn, buy a good spray booth. If you are poor like me, you can build your own. I know there are some good plans out there for a spray booth. This way you can vent most of the nasty stuff outside.[xx(]
I’ve had similar problems as Jeff with Polly S, but it seems to work okay at about 20 psi and thinned with either PollyS thinner or distilled water. Even so, I still prefer Floquil, probably mostly out of habit.
Definitely invest in a decent mask and buy plenty of latex gloves (assuming you aren’t allergic to latex). I do my painting outdoors on calm days.
I have several air brushes. For years and years (about 20) I used a Paasche V (very fine spray) double action. It was wonderful. I dropped it (well not really dropped-long story) and it broke beyond repair. They no longer make that particular model. My wife bought me an expensive Aztek for Christmas. She was under the assumption that you pay for what you get. She was wrong. The Aztek has been a piece of junk. It has a unique (non-standard) size coupling so none of my good air hoses work, nor are there any adaptors. I have to use the cheepo plastic one they include with the brush which kinks easily. With acrylic paints I have to stop often and frequently to clean it or it begins to clog and splatter. The changeable tips don’t seem to behave as labeled so one must determine the proper tip by trial-and-error, the double action totally quit working, paint leaks backward into the brush and all over ones hands. This expensive brush now sits on the shelf, because I don’t even think it is worth fixing. I found the cheapest external mix single action Badger works better.
Personally I like a bruhat has the paint cups/bottles to one side or the other (this was the only good thing about the Aztek, it could be on the left or right). That way the paint can be gravity or venturi fed. The ones that have the paint bottle directly in the center bottom always seems to be in the way. Likewise with the air hose connection. Depending on how you hold the bruhe hose can constantly be in the way (Case in point the Aztek hose comes out from the very back at the bottom. I hold my air brush like a writing pen so the hose was constantly dragging across the back of my arm.)
I can highly recommend the Paasche brand. I also recommend double action brushes, as they provide more control over the paint and can be used for texturing as well. Thayer and Iwata are also a good brands but will be more expensive.
About paint booths, there are a couple that appear on E-bay from time to time, real nice all metal ones of decent size, usually for around $160-$180. They keep reappearing, so keep an eye out. It’s how I got mine…
Paul A. Cutler III
Weather Or No Go New Haven
Here’s a group of forums that go into painting and stuff …
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/
And something in particular …
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/abcsofairbrushing.pdf
I’m new at this stuff, too.
Jim
i would recommend the badger 155 andthem. dead easy to clean and it is a “propper” graphics artist airbrush rather than a hobby brush like the rest of the badgers.
i think it would be a good idea for you to check some of the airbrush forums and see what they like to use.
with the 155 you can do any spraying you want with a single needle/nozzle comination. with most others you need 3 sets to get the same performance… so you only need 1 spare for the 155 where you are buying another 5 needles for the 150/200.
you need to bear in mind that if you look after it then this is a tool that your grandchildren will be using so if you can save for that extra week and get a 155 or an iwata rather than a badger 200 or a 150 then i would strongly recomment that you do that extra bit of saving.
one place you can save money is with the compressor. you simply dont need a posh resevoir compressor. a small pulse compressor is fine and is a whole lot cheaper. if you do get the cheaper compressor however, do spent the extra £20 on a decent hose as this cusions the pulsing of the compressor. it acts like a mini resevoir.
one big difference between cheap aircrushes and expensive ones is how easy they are to clean. i have often heard people saying they spend longer cleaning than they do painting and when i ask them what aribru***hey use it is always some crappy chinese piece of junk.
dont get an aztec. they are just not propper airbrushes. they are for kids. the top of the range aztek (with the chrome handle) is not bad but for the same price you can get a good iwata.
my advise is simple.
spend the extra - you wont regret it.
Peter
I also use a Badger 200 - it’s been a dependable workhorse of an airbrush for going on 15 years now.
Echoing what other posters have said, I would say these are must-haves:
An in-line moisture trap
A good respirator mask, regardless of what type of paint you use
Go to a home improvement store and buy a quality air compressor with a reservoir tank - this will run you upwards of at least $100, but it’s worth it in the long run. Stay away from the Badger hobby-type compressors, they’re complete junk.
I paint almost exclusively with solvent-based Scalecoat 2 - it dries with a glossy finish ready for decaling. I only use water-based paints as a last resort if I can’t get a good looking match by mixing my own colors…I’ve also found that the PollyScale clogs up the bru***oo easily, and I don’t get very consistent results from the ModelFlex. The water-based paints also have a very short shelf life, especially after the jar is opened…while on the other hand, the Scalecoat will last for years if properly re-capped and stored.
Good luck and happy painting[:)]
I think I know what airbrush I am going to buy now. A Paasche H seems to be a good airbru***o start with.
A big thank you to all of you fro helping me out in the jungle. [:D]