I siiiink Herr Pachelbel wrote a Kanon.
[:D]
For still photography I am using an old HP Photosmart 2.1 MP with no optical zoom that was given to me by the previous owners after they discovered their mistake in buying a cheap digital camera. Image manipulation is handled in Photoshop. Maybe it’s me but I think it’s a piece of junk for taking pictures but it works… after a fashion. My wife says the camera in her cell phone takes better pictures, LOL!
For video I use a Sony Digital 8 and Premiere, After Effects, Photoshop, and Cool Edit Pro 2.0 for audio when I need it.
I am itching to buy one of those new Nikon D40 DSLR’s that I keep seeing advertised. Then I need to take a class or find a book and learn some more about photography so I can justify the purchase. [:)]
I use a $4000 broadcast DV video camera (old SD-tv not HDTV) with an AC adapter and extension cord because I can’t afford to replace the batteries. I have what is probably a lifetime supply of “free” DV cassettes that were sent as publicity release music videos to the host whose public-access cable TV show I produced. (Before the fatal computer crash)
I capture video to computer file using Windows Movie Maker (my computer was rebuilt after a crash with an “improved” moterboard and CPU that is no longer compatible with my Matrox video capture card. I import video into Adobe Premiere (which is not fully functional due to incompatibility with “improved” rebuilt computer), and use Abode Premiere to still-frame the video as a bitmap file.
I take bitmap picture file into Photoshop LE (limited edition) to color-correct, crop and/or add words, arrows, graphics etc. then save as compressed .jpg file for emailed over the web, or uploading to railimages. This process is basically “free” since I already have the equipment bought to produce my own proposed commercial broadcast TV show which was not sold to a sponsor after I committed to buying the equipment. Free but clunky, cumbersome, etc.
If I want to shoot something for publication other than on the web, or for railroad photography, I use a Pentax K1000 single-lens reflex with one 55mm Sears lens, usually loaded with 200IE 35mm color negative film.
Now, BCSJ, don’t you wish you hadn’t asked???
I still use my tried an true Minotla X570 35mm. Most model photo’s a shoot outdoors with natural lighting. I do have a new Nikkon digital but I haven’t yet tried it for my models,I lilkey will, but I’m a tough sell on completly getting rid of my old film cameras.
Rob
Well that just bites! It sounds like your “improved” motherboard is more like an “incompatable” motherboard to me. It’s a shame because while newer architecture may have deemed your matrox card was not applicable to the new M/B at the very least you should be capturing with Premiere via firewire. [tdn]
If you do go this route, I’d suggest checking out the D40X, it has a bigger sensor (10MP vs 6 I think) and other improvements for a little more. Since you are already doing digital photography, getting such a DSLR would help you to learn photography as you read about it.
I came for the forum, not to have a spelling bee. My fingers don’t always hit the intended keys, either.
I use a Canon 20D. The Rebel is also an excellent choice.
Use a tripod or bean bag.
If you don’t want light falloff, get the light off the camera.
Use the smallest aperture possible. Be aware that long exposures can cause your sensor to overheat which will introduce noise into your black areas.
Ja, ist das recht! Aber ich sprach Englisch. [;)][:D]
Hi, Charlie
I don’t use the flash for mrr pics. I have experimented with it but
I use a Cybershot as well, althought it is the slightly newer 6.1 MP version. I got it 3 years ago for Christmas. I use room lighting which works pretty well on my layout for my purposes. I edit with the inexpensive Microsoft PictureIt. I’m really no photographer, but I’m pretty please with the results. Check out the gallery at my website below for some examples. NOTE: The older pics of early construction there were taken with an old 35mm campera and scanned–not digital.
Ron
It’s called the inverse square rule.
Light diminishes with the square of the distance.
Double the distance, 1/4 the amount of light reaches the subject. 3 times the distance, 1/9 the amount of light. ect.
That is the distance from the light to the subject. Distance from the camera to the subject is irrelevant unless the light is on the camera.
To get good shadows, get an extension cable and move the flash away from the camera. If you want the scene evenly lit, either use ambient light (no flash), or a very broad light source above the layout.
If your flash is a separate unit, you can really even it out if you bounce it off the ceiling. Be advised that if the ceiling is not white, it will color the light. You can also use a large white piece of poster board.
I use this:
