If you use hot glue be careful where u place ur glue gun, That its not on styrofoam. I always heard Elmers White glue cause it comes of rather easy without much distruction to the foam. unlike hot glue wich wont come off without leaving a hole behind.
I’ve been having a hard time finding clear latex acrylic caulk. Is this the one that’s for “Kitchen and Bath”?
Also, does it give off strong fumes? I keep my layout in my bedroom and am looking for the least toxic alternative.
I would be carefule using gorilla glue, because in my expierence it tends to ‘bubble’ up, unless you have it really clamped down tight. This is obviously a problem with cork, as speedbumps and railroads don’t mix…
Aleene’s Tacky Glue is downright excellent stuff. I use it not only to tack down roadbed, but to bond styrofoam (the pink or blue insulation board) as well as foamcore. It dries pretty quickly, clear and flat, and is an excellent buy. I get the 8oz size tubes or larger over to Wal-Mart’s but you can find it most anywhere craft supplies are sold.
The latex caulk doesn’t have strong fumes. You might use grey, with the idea that any that does not get fully covered by ballast, etc., won’t show too much.
I use grey latex caulk for my cork roadbed adhesive, it is the type marketed for doors and windows either for interior or exterior use. Says it has a 50 year warranty too!
Right–white glue is water soluble, so most recc. the yellow carpenter’s glue which isn’t water soluble, but many threads have also supported using latex(non-silicone) caulk for a variety of layout gluing projects, including cork roadbed to plywood or foam, and track to roadbed.
I’ve been using Aleene’s tacky glue for over 10 years and never had a problem with cork coming up either. I use Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement for the ballast, but I don’t use the “soak and cement” idea either. I simply paint the sloped edges of the cork, and when that’s dry, I use a 1/2" wide brush to “paint” the edges of the roadbed with scenic cement. I then sift fine ballast over the area, and when dry, brush off the excess. Near perfect ballasting, and more in scale, area-wise, than the standard way of doing it. After the edges are dry, I go back with a size 1 paint brush and apply scenic cement between the ties. then I again sift fine bllast over the area, and brush off the excess after it dries.
My method takes longer, for sure, but i like the result a lot more than the old way of doing it.
As I said, I use the tacky craft glue to put down the roadbed and haven’t had a problem yet.
I lay a thin bead of “liquid nails for projects.” I then spread it out with a flat piece of cardboard. It’s cheap stuff ($3/tube), holds quick and somewhat flexible afterwards (Good for expansion issues).
Unfortunately it’s in a tube. Once you break the seal, you better use the entire thing (within a week) Shelf life isn’t the greatest either even if you don’t break the seal.