I just made a quick test. I glued together 2 pieces of styrene with Cyanoacrylate. I used the thick CA because it was the only one I had at home. But I think thin CA will work better.
You may wonder why I use CA. It’s because I’m searching for a method to glue together VERY small pieces of styrene without any warping of the styrene. Normally I use Ethyl Acetate.
What CA are you using for styrene? I know there is a CA glue that is the so called ‘standard’, but I don’t know the name of it.
El,
I’ve not had much luck with CA and styrene. I try to use thin glue like Tenax or the Testors applied with a pin or toothpick for very small parts. When i do use CA, I’ve had good luck with Loctite 454 gel and a product called Racebond I get mailorder from Racers Wholesale which is like a bulk version of Zap a Gap complete with accelerator. We use the Racebond to glue broken glass fibre bodywork back together after an “oops” at the track and I started bringing the remnants of the opened kits home to try. So far so good. J.R.
I almost always use ‘‘Crazy Glue’’ . It seems to work good with no warpage on thin strips.
Hows the layout coming along? I’m sure there are others on here that would like to see your progress.
I’ve been using the thick Zap-a-Gap stuff for several years. The last bottle I bought was very different from earlier bottles, so either their quality control is lacking or they’ve changed their formula. It seemed much thinner, and does not set up quickly at all. I have to use the instant-setting stuff to get it to harden unless I want to wait 10 minutes or so. I suspect I just got a bad bottle.
If you’re using clean, unpainted styrene, though, then Testors would be my choice for the best bond. You may need to apply it to both surfaces, but it will bond very well and will set up quite quickly.
“Zap” and “Jet” are the two most common in hobby shops in the US. Paul Smith Industries is the best, (it’s usually got the hobby shop name on the foil type label).
If I’m using CA, I use the medium or “gap-filling” for 80% and the thin for the rest. I very rarely use the gel type - it becomes brittle with time because of all the filler in it to make it thick.
If you’re going to use CA to make those I beams, it won’t be easy, but make sure you have a flat 90 degree edge on the vertical edges. I would probably tack it together with the medium (it gives you a little more working time to adjust things and then come back with the thin stuff.
If i use CA glue i like the thick kind from Zap followed by a squirt of acelerater. But for styrene i’ve found that MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) is the best found at your local hardware store. I use a needle applicator bottle to apply it with. it’s a lot cleaner to use than CA and if you spill it and a rag is available, it can be wiped off without damaging the plastic or causing it to warp if it’s wiped off immediately after the spill.
Another good thing with MEK is that it’s economical. A quart can will last a good 10 years compared to the bottle after bottle you would otherwise use of testors or CA glue…chuck
When I made the rivets for my whaleback tender, I embossed them with a small steel awl on a very thin sheet of styrene. I then glued this sheet over the top of the thicker wrapper that I used to construct the tank. To prevent the thin sheet and rivets from warping, I used a water based contact cement. ( Weldwood by DAP non flammable Contact Cement). This was a very special case but for me it did work out fine.
Peter Smith, Memphis
Slightly off topic, but I would like to know how to preserve the CA in the container between uses. I have just begun to use the CA made by Bob Smith Ind. After cutting a little off the top of the spout, I inserted a straight pin into the spout and replaced the screw-on cap. Later, I had a problem removing the pin good adhesive! Later, it was all stuck and I used pliers to remove the screw-on cap, but broke the spout. How can I protect the remaining CA, but still be able to use it when I want to? I’m new to the new adhesives, just used “airplane glue” over 50 years ago. Thanks.
SFBill
You’ll be very sorry you used CA when your bridge falls apart in a year.[2c]
The cheap stuff in a toothpaste tube from home depot or Lowes lasts much longer than the high priced “specially formulated for model railroads”. ACC is ACC!
I use small tubes (0.11oz) of Loctite Super Glue. I find that their screw off top really works like it is suppose to. It is the only CA container I’ve ever used that has not given me all the problems and more that are outlined by SFBill.
Peter Smith, Memphis
Are you sure about that?
Hi el: I haven’t seen this one mentioned. My LHS recommended Faller expert for plastics. It has a thin metal tube applicator that doesn’t clog, just a quick swipe with a paper towel when you’re done. I don’t know what the ingredients are, it just works for me. It dries fast, too. I had less than satisfactory results with Testor’s. Just my opinion. loathar: I had the exact same thing happen with my coal mine building. Only I had used Testor’s. I re-glued the whole building with Faller’s.
I sure am…I CA’d the window frames in about 5 buildings on my layout and it seems like every time I look at them , 1-2 more windows have fallen out on there own. [V] When I pick them up to do anything to them, something that was glued with CA falls off. You really need a styrene cement that will melt the surfaces and fuse together.[2c]
I keep opened bottles of CA in the refridgerator. It lasts longer that way. My Dad had a bottle of Eastman 710(?) in the freezer for probably 10-15 years, and it didn’t dry out.
I use CA glue tips now. I bought a bulk bag with about 200 tips in it. When I’m done using the CA, the tip glues itself shut at the very end. I just clip the end back about 1/8 inch when I need to use the CA again.
This is what I use:
Rotor
I’ve used ZapGap for years, no major troubles, occasionally have to re-glue somethings, mostly due to inadequate amounts of adhesive used the first time around.
You can do as Rotor does and use the special tips. I never apply CA directly from the bottle, I just pour a few drops into a soda bottle cap and apply the glue with a pin or toothpick from there, one is less likely to glues ones fingers together and it’s a lot easier to control the amount especially with the thin stuff. I use the medium or gap filling for most appications as it is easier to control. If the tip clogs I just cut it back with a razor knife until it’s clear.
Paul Smith Ind. has a long shelf life (about 1 year once the bottle is opened) depending on the humidity in the room, however if you’re not going to use it a week or more storing it in the fridge can prolong it’s life. The main thing is not to store it near the accelerator (zip kicker). Keep the spout clean so you can snap on the cap, scrape off any dried CA on the spout. TAp the spout (like they do with syringes) to help the glue in the spout empty back into the bottle.
Most places that sell PSI, Zap or Jet also sell the tips and replacement spouts/caps. As you found out, don’t use pins to seal the spout.
I put several drops of CA on a piece of wax paper and then apply it with a pin or tooth pick. I find that the wax paper seems to keep the CA in a usable liquid state for a longer period of time. I do the same with most other glues. I also mix my two part epoxies on wax paper. The only problem with this method is that it is hard to keep your fingers, tools and other modeling materials out of the way.
Peter Smith, Memphis
Rotorranch Thanks for your reply. BTW, what are the glue tips you use? Of course, I have never heard of them, and where do you get them?
SFBill
I got mine when I was still a dealer from Great Planes (Tower Hobbies). Walthers may have them too.
I saw some in Hobby Lobby the other day, too.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=CA+tips
Rotor