I’m making a run to the LHS tomorrow to pick up some stuff for kit building and possilby to buy more kits and wondered, what exactly do I need? I really have never really built a kit. I have an xacto knife with a standard blade and some nail files. I understand I need modeling cement, probably something better than a nail file and new exacto blades. Is there specific cement I should get? Also should I get something other than just the standard xacto knife blade?
Also, would it be worth replacing the wheels in the kits to metal? Or should I just stick with the plastic ones that are included? I also intend on replacing all of the couplers with kadees of some sort. My layout is going to have sharp curves and fairly steep grades so is there a specific type of Kadee I should get? Thanks for any help, while I’ve been in this hobby for 15 years I would consider myself a recovering armchair model railroader hoarder who wants to actually get up and do something (Like actually use my heaps of Accurail kits I have sitting around).
It´s been a while since I assembled an Accurail kit, but I don´t remember having to use any other tools than those typical “household” type tools and plastic cements. However, I do remember the plastic wheels not to be as free rolling as I wanted them to be, so I exchanged them to metal wheel sets, which I got from Accurail.
I’m looking at standardizing my couplers right now. Its mostly just bachmann ezmate couplers at the moment but I’m not too happy with them because they don’t like to handle turns very well and the “air hose” magnetic decouplers on them aren’t very good looking and have caused issues before. I know every coupler has the air hoses but I think I will just file them off next time around.
Well, it somewhat depends on whether you’re initially intending to just get your feet wet with a half dozen cars or so while refining some basic skills or whether you intend to jump into a deeper part of the pool. You’ll certainly get a range of responses here, but let’s assume it’s the former for now.
As Ulrich has noted, basic tools are all that’s needed, but you will be cutting parts off of sprues and there is likely to be a bit a flashing to be removed. I don’t think you need to fork ober the extra bucks right away for a sprue cutter but I would minimally opt right out of the chute for a #11 blade, the smaller one with a single, straight edge. And I’d make an initial investment in a modest hobby file set which will give you a much better result that a nail file - and will serve you well for a long timeyour nails with your hooby tools!). Same with a hobbyist’s small screwdriver set. A pin vise and set of tiny twist drills won’t be far down the line.
I just pulled an Accural ikt out of the cupboard behind my office desk. It may be an older one because it it has not only all-plastic, put-together trucks, but they are affixed to the underframe with plastic pins, not screws. Unless you intend to remain at the most basic level for an extended time, you’ll want to ditch these. Your LHS - if they major on trains - should be able to recommed an appropriate upgrade. You’ll certainly get a few suggestions here!
Here’s another thing that may identify the kit on my desk as dated: the couplers are non-operating and come on sprues. Amazingly useless. If that’s what you find, chuck 'em right out of the box and install Kadee #5s. Cut the plastic pin off the “ACCURAIL” coupler box lids, drill appropriate holes and mount your Kadees with screws. Or, I think you can get Kadee box covers, too. Do yourself an in
I would recommend a set of needle files, fine sandpaper, and emory boards.
You can cut parts off the sprues with a hobby knife - make sure the blade is sharp, but I prefer sprue cutters. Although depending on the sprues you may not always be able to get the cutters into where you need to cut - then you will need a knife.
Get some graphite (or KD’s grease-em) for the couplers. I recommend you replace the kits couplers with KD’s - #148’s with whiskers are easier to install than #5’s IMHO.The graphite can be used with the axles in the trucks - make sure the axle needle points are smooth as well as the indents in the truck sideframes.
I use a liquid plastic cement for glueing the plastic parts. I currently use Micro Weld because the fumes are safe, but Testor’s Liquid Cement works also - just open a window.
Get an NMRA gauge to test your wheel sets to make sure they are in gauge. I prefer metal, but others have used plastic just fine. Some folks feel that plastic picks up more dirt, so you may have to clean the wheels more often.
Brain freeze. Paul is correct on the Kadee #148s over the #5s. Simpler as you don’t have to mess with the little berylium centering boxes. You can nip off the whiskers to the proper length if they’re too long.
You can get a set of needle files ar Harbor Freight. Yes to the Kadee 148s.
I change my wheelsets to metal wheel Intermountains. In 100 pack they are about 60 cents per axle.
Do learn how to adjust the truck tightness so they are loose enough to swivel freely but with minimal wobble. Tighten one more than the other. I usually find the small cylinder that.the truck swivels on is a bit too tall such that the screw tightens against it first and the truck is too loose. If so just file the cylinder down a bit so the screw tightens against the truck.
Also, decide if you want to get your cars close to recommended weight. I bought a cheap digital postal scale on Amazon. The kits usually build up to an underweight car.
Proper weight is a good thing for reliable operation. Accurail kits are generally underweight out of the box. A cheap postal scale is all you need - I think mine actually came from Harbor Freight and was under $10. Lots of things you can use to add weight, but for enclosed cars I have just been using pennies. Easy way to plan before finishing the kit - I have a small tray I put on the scale, zero it out, and then put all the kit parts in it - wheels, trucks, couplers, and all. Including the factory weight. Then see how much more it needs and start stacking pennies in with it. Closest even number of pennies, or if it needs a lot, some number divisible by 3 so I can make 3 even stacks instead of 2. You don;t want tall stacks, you want the weight to stay low and over the trucks. I use CA to glue the pennies in short stacks, then CA the stacks to the floor of the car, or the existing weight. Haven’t had any come loose even on those cars that get transported to train shows an hour or more away.
This sounds harder to do than it is - it’s a simple task and will result in better running rolling stock.
Get a Kadee coupler gauge and a Micro-Mark Truck Tuner. The former will help you get your couplers set up correctly, and the latter will let you clean out the truck frames before you put the wheelsets in. I use Intermountain wheelsets, which I buy in bulk to replace all the plastic wheels, both on new kits and on the “legacy” cars I’ve had forever.
I use the Testor’s plastic cement in a clear jar with a brush attached to the top. I have other cements for other things, but for Accurail kits that’s the one to go with.
This is not “building” the kit, but rather weathering it. I use blue painters’ tape to cover the conical wheel bearing holes and the top bolster bearing hole, and then spray the trucks with Rustoleum red-brown primer. Then I apply black weathering powder, unevenly, and finally I spray the trucks again with clear flat Krylon paint to seal the powder in. I also use the clear flat spray on the car body. This is not necessary, of course, but it makes for a more realistic model.
Not all Accurail kits are created equal when it comes to being “shake the box” assembly. The bi level and tri level autoracks for example, while not difficult to assemble, are more involved and a bit trickier than say a boxcar or gondola. I recall using some plastic clamps to hold certain pieces in place while the styrene cement bonded.
I would say a person equipped with a good hobby knife and styrene cement can assemble your typical Accurail kit. Anything else needed is probably somewhere around the house.
Any problems with that? The reason I ask is I saw a youtube video where the guy claimed that he had derailments because those wheels did not fit the trucks.
If you are going to screw the trucks and coupler boxes in you might as well get the Kadee drill and tap 2-56. I started a recent thread on accurail, where I thought they only included 1 set of screws and 1 set of plastic pegs, I was wrong there were 2 sets.
The weight of the 2 boxcar kits I built were right on but one 148 coupler is high. I need to look into shaving down that cylinder.
Also remember that shorter cars (around 40’) will negotiate steep grades and tight turns far better than longer cars. They also make your trains appear to be longer since there are more cars in the same length of train. Choose any new kits appropriately.
Intermountain’s 33" and 36" wheelsets work very well in Accurail’s trucks – not sure why someone would be having derailments unless the truck screw is over tight and the truck won’t swivel.
The plastic pin found in some Accurail kits can be replaced by a 2-56 screw, either 1/8" or 3/16". I tap the hole, but lots of people don’t bother.
If you’re building a tool kit, you’ll want Phillips in addition to flat screwdrivers.
My freight cars are not the heavier duty modern ones so they take the 33" (vs 36") Intermontain wheelsets. I don’t have any problems with them. Maybe the youtube guy with the problems put on too large wheels that hit something on turns? Or the new axles were too long for the particular trucks he was addressing? Or the trucks were not tightened properly? Lots of people have used the Intermountains (and Protos and Kadees) and liked them. (Some do not prefer the Kadees which I believe have sintered (vs. machined) treads which might accumulate more dirt.
I bought a $22 micrometer (a similar one is often on sale at HF) and measured the axle lengths of the original axle and checked that the replacements were not longer and therefore would not be excessively pressured between the truck sideframes. I then tested the metal wheeled trucks with a downhill / horizontal rollout to ensure they rolled well. Some of the Accurail and/or Atheran old kit originals did not roll very well.
I also tried some Walthers Proto (2000?) wheelsets and they also did ok. I believe in both cases the axle lengths were somewhat shorter than the originals. One can be precise and look at the Reboxx site to see what axle is recommended for specific cars. They have various axle length replacement wheelsets. I did not find that necessary. I guess that a slightly shorter than optimal axle is not a big problem. It may ride below the exact cone center of the trick sideframe but just find its home there and do just fine.
I also will use Intermountain (or Rapido) metal wheelsets on my Accurail kits, no problems at all.
I use a very simple set of tools to assemble them.
Hobby screwdriver set.
Sprue cutters.
Xacto knife.
Needle files. (Flat, triangle, and round most used.)
Micro-mark Truck Tuner. (Highly recommend this!)
2-56 drill and tap set. (And of course 2-56 screws.)
Styrene cement. (With needle applicator.)
Foam cradle.
My other supplies for assembly include Kadee couplers, metal wheelsets as mentioned, and a couple of different sizes of lead weights.
This is more than many need, but I have (somewhat) high standards for railcars on my layout. All must track well, and all must have Kadee’s and metal wheels.
I have skimmed the above answers and the one thing I didn’t see (though it could be there) is about the coupler trip pins. I leave them on for the “hose” look between cars. Also, should you want to go to magnetic uncoupling you need them.
If you have gotten a coupler height guage it has a little shelf for the trip pin to clear. Withh the pin clearing that, you shouldn’t have problems with them catching, unless there is a problem with the track. Kadee makes a pair of pliers to bend them. It can be done with other pliers, but no where near as easy.
Yes, I would recommend KD #148’s, metal wheels, oh yes, did anyone mention a truck tuner from Micro Mark to clean the journals before adding the new wheelsets?
Paul thanks for your response. i was about to order a big bag of their wheelsets when I saw the video.
I will not link the youtube as I did not think much of the guy’s presentation. I don’t remember why but for some reason I had subscribed to his videos.